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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so after doing the snabb intake/forge cbv on my car, rmorse and I didn't quite get the turbo housing lined up 100%. It's literally like 5 degrees off, but it's keeping the charge pipe from clamping down onto the turbo, causing boost leak at 3lbs. Major bummer! And because I'm not in possession of a lift, nor do I live near anyone who does [if you do and would let me come in for free, let me know!], I've decided that I'd rather just piece together a charge pipe [it's cheaper than getting someone to fix it for me].

Since I've got an 04 with the flange/clamp setup on the turbo, I need one of these. Anyone know which one specifically will fit our cars? I know it's 2" ID on the turbo and the charge pipe, but I'm unsure of the other dimension...

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...=1593&osCsid=0a36531cd2ef178639f063904033965e

Since my car is hardly a showpiece [lots of dings from its previous city life], appearance is not my first concern in this job. However, I want to know if running intercooler piping will work safely as a charge pipe, aka 2" piping and silicone connections...

something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/19048977145...XX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649#ht_5674wt_891

or this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/15085125924...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649#ht_3905wt_1124

I figure that's cheaper than buying piecemeal

If I had the time and spare cash right now I'd get the fmic kit as well and go all out! However, I may hold out for the Phuzzy gb on that one and have him install it! :D
 

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Well the charge air pipe is 2.25". Also, you want to buy a 2.5" intercooler piping kit to put on your car because 2.25" is too small. You'll also need to buy a 2.0"-2.5" coupler to clamp it from the turbo. Just my 2 cents.
 

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I don't understand how the turbo is out of alignment why did you rotate it? If it is slightly rotated why not fix it and why is a lift needed.
 

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The 2.25" size aluminum flange from siliconeintakes.com most closely matches the flange on the stock charge pipe. However, how are you planning on connecting the rest of the piping to the flange? I think you'll have to have the next section of piping welded to the flange, because the flange doesn't have a bead on it, which means that it will be difficult to make a secure connection with a silicone coupling and t-bolt clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't understand how the turbo is out of alignment why did you rotate it? If it is slightly rotated why not fix it and why is a lift needed.
Because there are five nastly little bolts that are very hard to get to, even on a lift. Trying to do it on rhino ramps is killing me! Only one bolt is easily accessible, and the other four have hardlines and other things in the way that make it a major pain in the butt.

The turbo housing is off center because when we did the cbv, loosening and rotating the housing is the easiest way to get to the cbv. We thought we had it back in the right spot cause everything mated up nicely, but something must have either shifted or we were off or something because now it's not! :(

If someone is willing to come out and help[preferably someone alot smaller than me], I'm all ears! :D
 

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Ahhh I see when I did my cbv I did not rotate the turbo and it was hell. My hands and arms are not small and I cut up my fore arms pretty well getting the job done. Good luck getting a new charge pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You know, now that I have the two braces off the charge pipe, I'm going to give it a go and see if the extra wiggle room is sufficient. Probably not but worth a try nonetheless.

As far as the turbo flange piece, I think it shouldn't have any problem staying together with a good set of clamps. I could always use a high temp adhesive as well to doubly make sure it wouldn't come off

Are folks positive the round parts of the charge pipe are 2.25 and not 2"?? I'd always heard from others on here that the turbo has a 2" inlet diameter, as do the ends of the charge pipe. Might have to go dig out my micrometer...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So kind of a silly side question...but could I install a blow off valve on the charge pipe to help prevent boost spikes [not that I'm having any right now]? Since I'd be assembling the pipe anyways, they have the pipes with the mount already installed.

I could set it high for like 19 or 20 psi to prevent any big spikes that could compromise the engine.

Just a thought that came into my head while scouring ebay... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright, so the stock charge pipe is back on, and it's on pretty tight. no wobble, and the turbo clamp seems to be on completely. But my suspicions were correct in that the support clamps would not work as it needed to sit lower than normal to attach to the turbo. Will see how it goes for the next few days, but I will go ahead and get ready to order some parts to build a charge pipe.

Would love some confirmation on sizes in my earlier posts regarding piping diameters and the turbo flange piece.

Also thinking I may go ahead and just get a 2.5" cxracing fmic kit while I'm ordering stuff off ebay.
 

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The 2.25" size aluminum flange from siliconeintakes.com most closely matches the flange on the stock charge pipe. However, how are you planning on connecting the rest of the piping to the flange? I think you'll have to have the next section of piping welded to the flange, because the flange doesn't have a bead on it, which means that it will be difficult to make a secure connection with a silicone coupling and t-bolt clamp.
Half of my custom charge piping does not have beads on it, a little brake cleaner sprayed around the inside of the silicone coupler and making sure the T-bolt clamp is incredibly tight is all you really need to make the coupling secure.
 

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Half of my custom charge piping does not have beads on it, a little brake cleaner sprayed around the inside of the silicone coupler and making sure the T-bolt clamp is incredibly tight is all you really need to make the coupling secure.
Fair enough, but those connections are not coming directly off the turbo housing with the associated temperature fluctuations.

 

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Fair enough, but those connections are not coming directly off the turbo housing with the associated temperature fluctuations.
Very good point.

OP wouldn't it just be easier to til the compressor housing back to normal? It can't be that difficult if you can get under the car can it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hahaha...try it
 

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Hahaha...try it
I was able to do it, it's not that bad. You got it once, you can do it again. You can try to loosen all the bolts except the lower one and use a rubber mallet to tap the compressor around. If all you need to do is move it a tad then it should work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The bigger problem here is this:

1. It's my DD
2. I have little "car" time
3. rmorse is 2 hours away and has little "car" time but has the lift capabilities
4. I'm a big guy, so even with the rhino ramps, there's virtually no room under the car for me, and certainly no room to leverage a bolt I can't even see from under the car. :( I'm in a really annoying place car-wise right now. Trying to keep a positive attitude about the whole thing.

I was planning on doing a fmic anyways in the future, so I could just do a charge pipe and fmic now, which means I would just go 2.5inch the whole way. Makes no sense to change sizes, and it'd be cheaper that way I'm guessing as well. Rmorse has even agreed to help me install it at his place, so that's seeming like the win/win scenario right now. I might even be able to convince him to go in and fix the turbo housing.

How badly would I muck up the turbo if I only loosened, say, the top three bolts and I tried to "tap" the compressor housing the 2 or 3 degrees to be in the 12oclock position with a rubber mallet or a woodblock and hammer??

Another thing, probably related. Now that I have the charge pipe on [though it's much lower than normal w/out the brackets there], I'm only boosting about 5-6lbs on my gauge. Now, I have the ipd gauge which for me read about 4lbs low, so I'm really only making 9-11lbs of boost. I guess I'm still leaking a little bit with my less than ideal seal??
 
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