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My 123GT is at Phil Singher's for a 100% restoration. It is moving along very nicely, with the body shell very nearly complete. Next comes the task of putting it all back together again--which means I need to start thinking about the engine.

I was originally going to simply rebuild the B18 that was in the car (B18's for the GT were specially marked), but have decided to go with a Singher B20. I'm getting the most powerful variant for street use, and it will have a long list of 'special' features to make it both tractable and street-friendly, while still having a very broad 170 lb-ft torque curve: special reworked head per Phil's design, custom-made pistons (also per Phil's design), Iske cam, double valve springs, dual DCOE45 Webers, and a long list of other performance parts.

Here's are my questions:
1. Does the specially marked (I forgot what it is, but I have seen the letter) GT engine have any value over other B18s?
2. Are there any differences between the GT B18 and a standard B18? If so, what?
3. Does using a non-standard engine (conventional B18 or B20) in a GT devalue it?

I ask these questions because I am contemplating whether I should keep the original GT engine so that some future owner of the car can swap it back if so desired, or to sell it. The downside of keeping it, of course, is that I would have to store it in a dry place, probably crated for handling and protection.

Any recommendations out there?

I should probably also ask how much it might be worth. It runs and drives (it is complete with carbs, distributor and all other accessories), and doesn't smoke, but I haven't driven it enough to report anything beyond that. If I were buying it I would simply tear it down and rebuild it first thing.

Finally, if I do sell it it I would prefer to see it go to someone who needs a marked engine for their GT. If such a person reads this please feel free to PM me.
 

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Hiya Dan, sounds like most all must be going well, and good to hear the GT project is proceeding smoothly as well.
Hope you find my thoughts useful...

I've never seen any evidence that B18Bs or B20Bs destined for GTs were specially marked in any way. In fact the cars were barely designated GTs by Volvo; only the presence of overdrive after '66 (5 transmission code=M41) confirms a GT...VIN won't do it.
The B18B used in '66-'68 GTs was identical to the ones in the 1800 of the same time period (and the regular Amazon B18B after '67)...They were engine #'s 496860, 61; 68 and 69 (emission control); and 71 and 72. No special designation for GT engines in the parts book listing all engine #s and internal parts.
Bottom line, nothing could (definitively) prove to a potential buyer, other than one's word, that a particular engine block was born for and grew up in a GT.

While I don't think that restored, non-original GTs will reach prices in our lifetime that the original engine will matter more that the quality of the restoration, if that did matter to you, here's what you could do...
Have Phil use your original B18 block, bored to B20, std or OS, and do everything to it he's done to your B20.
It will end up looking, to the trained eye, just like it should, period correct...
And sell the virginal HiPro B20, with it's telltale B20 casting.

If you (quite reasonably) do use the B20, definitely keep the (presumed?) original engine with the car. If it will need a rebuild before use sometime in the future, you sure don't need to knock youself out now figuring out how to appropriately store it. You know I've got room, out of the howling wind...

Hard frost tonite back east,
Best...
 

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Dan's B18 is the 496860 type. It is indeed identical to a 1800S B18B of the same year, except without the oil/coolant heat exchanger and oil temp sender fitting. Would the 1800 engine with those features also be a 60 type?

This will be an obviously modified GT, so there's no point in keeping the engine visibly marked B18. However, all the mods are reversible, so if the type 60 engine is unique to the GT and not used in the 1800S, it may make sense to keep this one. If it's not unique, I'd say it has value only as a rebuildable core.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
According to an acknowledged Amazon expert: " The part number for the engine was a 6 digit number. The first four digits were cast into the block and the last two were stamped in a small machined area that sat at the head gasket interface. That pad sat right behind the distributor. So you will see '4968' cast into the block on the left side of cylinder #2 and then a 2-digit stamped number behind that. In the cast of the engine in my gt (original to the car) '60' is stamped into the machined area to give the full engine type code of '496860'" Engine type codes 60 and 61 were supposedly only for the GT. Please note the cross-reference in a Volvo parts manual from the day: http://weblisher.textalk.se/gcp/20160201-027/?page=1&mode=50&noConflict=1 , page 5. The 13335 model (123GT) received the type 60 engine. Another model (13395) did also, but I believe that may have been a GT assembled in a different country. You probably have a resource that will tell you.

The bottom line is that it appears that the GT did have a special engine type--but I have no doubt that others used it as well. So here's my next question: What differentiated the type 60 and 61 engines from other B18B engines?
 

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Keep the original engine is my advise if its the genuine for the car.
I belive 1800 vs 123 gt has different codes, anyway its worth keeping..

In Sweden a 123gt is worth significant more whith org motor.

You/or next owner may want to take another route in the future.
Once your org motor is gone its gone*)

My opinion is that B18 is a nicer more smooth revvy engine vs B20.
130hp B18 is more fun then 160hp B20 / but thats just me..

But if you prefer higher output +130HP B20 is the choice ofcourse.
I had a 4 door sleeper Amazon -65 121 whith a Bored and stroked B20 90 stroke / 92 bore 48 Dellortos etc.. fun engine:D +200Hp

Thanx and happy motoring)) Greetings from Sweden !
 
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