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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked it up a couple weeks ago - got tags, title, insurance and it's my daily now... 194,000 miles and counting...

Took it in the mechanic for oil change, to start a dialog with him, and get it inspected front to back. Still have to take it to get emission tested.


Mechanics Notes
"front struts/mounts worn /
front lower control arm bushing worn /
passenger front lower control arm ball join worn /
front engine mount worn/ lower torque rod mount/ lower rear mount worn."


My notes after driving and looking at stuff...:

Going over bumps is a little louder than I'd like, causes lots of stuff to rattle. Some clunking is audible over bumps and when starting to accelerate from deceleration. I can see the top of the strut mounts/bearings in front they are a little oxidized/rusty

Cosmetic etc : There is one tear in the drivers seat, center console scratched to **** and the flappers broken, the rear gate is damaged, 2 rust spots on the roof, pegasus wheels not great. Rubber gasket around the windshield sides is trashed ... The stereo seems like it could sound good, but the knob is wonky and i prefer bluetooth

It possibly feels a little more sluggish that it should. Not sure how to test if i'm getting full boost.


Working on prioritizing my purchases/ upgrades/ expenditures. I'd be grateful for any input, or advice on what to take a closer look at.

What I'd like to do - in no particular order:

Inspect and possibly replace brake lines with braided - flush brake fluid

Plugs / Ignitors / Air filter

FRONT - IPD HD upper seat srings / Upper Strut mount bearing (aftermarket?) / front lower Control arm bushings / IPD HD Ball joints

Engine mounts that the mechanic recommended

Subframe bushings and

Power Steering reservoir

Center Console - fix seat

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Things I found in the service records - date/miles desc - i put part numbers in from all the records also
6/10/2019 - PEM relocated
1/22/2019 - Fuel rail pressure sensor
6/12/2018 - Throttle Bottle & Gasket
8/25/2017 [185k miles] - Cabin Air / Steering coupling 3409939 / Front Brake Pads 30748957 / Remove broken bolt from lower steering shaft at rack & pinion
5/18/2017 [181k miles] - Wheel bearing rear BR930389 / Control arm bushing rear 9200301

5/5/2017 [181k miles] - Brake pad set ASP1001 / Brake Disc qty 2 30645222 / Caliper Assemblys 8602682 & 8602683

11/24/2015 [ 173k miles] - tighten power steering hose/clamp/purge air - Stabilizer Link 31201602 (front) both sides -

4/23/2015 [168k Miles]
Rear Pads: MKD592A (looks like this is bendix)
Rear Rotor: BD126219 (looks like this is wagner)
Water Pump / Timing belt: TCKWP331A
Oil seperator hose: 8653339 / intake manifold gasket : 9458534 / hoses: 8692217 , 30677388 / breather hose assembly: 30731068
water gasket: 8636573

Front Control arms 30635229 / 30635230 / 2x Ball Joint Front lower 505-1360
Fuel Filter 30636704
ABS Control Unit: 10092504033-0

4/25/2014 [160k] - leak detection pump 31392490 321123456321

5/13/2013 [157k] - 2 upper sprint seat 30683637 , 2 coilsprings 9492228 , 2 front struts , 2 bellows 143059
1/19/2013 [152k] - blower motor 9171479 , 2 x ball joint: 2601651
12/10/2012 [151k] - set of rotors and pads 30748957 30645222
4/7/2011 [122k] - tie rod ends 2693308 air filter 8671488
12/15/2010 [114k] - engine mount rear 30680770 - spark plugs

this continues on - and i've removed all the oil changes, tire rotations, etc
 

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Welcome to R ownership! First step is to get VIDA. It is a must. It allows you to completely scan the car, perform certain activations/calibrations on all the car's computer systems, and also contains manuals to complete almost every task on these things. Seriously cannot stress enough how important it is that you get vida. I didn't think i needed it, but once i got it i couldn't believe i didn't get it earlier.

Also get a boost gauge. Don't go cheap, buy something that is worth a crap. Personally, i am running a Prosport Evo digital boost gauge, which costed me around $95 after shipping. Accuracy is okay, the wiring was simple and easy.
 

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All of those records are what you want in an R.

I wouldn't get a boost gauge unless you really want one... boost pressure pretty meaningless (car cares about torque demand) and most of them are ugly. If you need boost pressure for diagnostics--VIDA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Planning to get the vida/dice once I figure out which clone to get and version of the software. Do they all work for older cars? Reliable clone seller?

I'll hopefully run that before I decide
 

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Dave Leach sells VIDA setups on facebook. You can find him on the Facebook P2R Owner's Page. He will sell you a laptop (the cheapest is $215), and you are still responsible for buying the Dice unit which will cost around $80. You can ask Dave himself for a reputable place to by the dice unit. The dice unit is the cable that plugs into the car. A VIDA setup should work on all OBD2 volvo cars up until around 2015.
It is true that the boost on these cars fluctuates to achieve desired torque, but a boost gauge is still helpful personally.
 

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IPD HD front springs seats are garbage. Both of mine were severely cracking around the metal sleeve by 20k miles, most likely sooner. They warranty them for life, Got mine replaced under warranty, after dragging their feet, demanding tons of pics, and proof they weren't installed wrong. Never again!! I urge to go OE on the spring seats.

Oh, and Dave's SS screen name is TacklaNHL, in case you're not into FB.
 

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IPD HD front springs seats are garbage. Both of mine were severely cracking around the metal sleeve by 20k miles, most likely sooner. They warranty them for life, Got mine replaced under warranty, after dragging their feet, demanding tons of pics, and proof they weren't installed wrong. Never again!! I urge to go OE on the spring seats.

Oh, and Dave's SS screen name is TacklaNHL, in case you're not into FB.
Indeed. As is almost every IPD product. Go XC90 spring seats. It’s all Volvo officially uses in house but the aftermarket still makes all the early versions that aren’t super robust.
 

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Just buy Lemforder parts. That’s what I used and many other probably use them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just buy Lemforder parts. That’s what I used and many other probably use them.


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I'm finding the price difference between ipd, OEM, mtc, aftermarket and lemforder parts to be quite astounding as I'm gathering my parts list and pricing it all out.

I don't plan on putting the cheapest parts in; I don't feel like tearing it apart again in a few months in the dead of Wisconsin winter. How could an $8 set of ball joints not be complete trash

I guess I had thought ipd was developing better replacement parts, I do like the idea of some extended use on some parts tho
 

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Ipd doesn’t develop anything. At least not anymore. Ipd HD is just rebranded something else and painted blue. I have a list of all of the common parts and their OE suppliers.
 

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Just buy Lemforder parts. That’s what I used and many other probably use them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm a big Lemforder fan too. Other OE brands are also great (INA, Sachs, TRW, etc)
 

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I agree, my vr came with ipd hd upper strut mounts when I bought the car and they were fairly new. When I replaced the struts, they were torn and completely shot. The lemforder seem to be a quality piece and hopefully they will hold up better.
 

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Checkout FCPEuro for your parts. Great price and life time warranty. I have been a customer since the 90’s for my first, a 89 744ti+.


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haha all true about ipd hd. go blue box or fcp/ lemforder. tascaparts is good too and the best benchmark on lowest pricing for oe/ blue box.

Also good job with the 'just got my r' thread and not using the word unicorn. 04's are cheap and mechanical duplicate of 05-07 except better alternator, more reliable aw55 autotragic - plus ugly wagons are so much cooler :) only legit diff is newer 06+ cem, newer haldex, folding mirror.

Recommend keeping it stock, do nothing, drive the piss out it and fix as it breaks. it will break. radiator drivers side - top hose - it will crack. angle gear/ AG collar - it will fail. intake leaks from turbo to throttle body and hoses - either stock intake/ vacuum leaks or various stage whatever upgrades fk w/ air/fuel and whatnot. gremlins can cause lean condition and may kill engine / crack block. there's a list of quirks but it is a finite list! just get vida.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Here's a couple pictures to start. Dirty dirty engine bay - trying to figure out whats missing in the corner behind the drivers side headlight.

They cut the plastic cover up when they replaced the fuel pressure sensor. Why did they cut up the black plastic tho? Should something be under it?





 

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Looks like they thought the pressure sender was under the black cover, then it was oops it`s the other cover and mangled that one too.
 
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