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DO88 Intercooler Install - 2014 XC60 T6 w/o front grille radar.

Install follows this procedure except where noted: http://www.do88.se/bilder/artiklar/pdf/ICM-220-S60.pdf

Total time was around 4 hrs, not including time waiting for the car to cool down from my commute prior to starting work, and not including 20min test drive prior to reattaching bumper and headlights.

Step 0.) New Step - disconnect battery. Always a good precaution Place car on ramps, chalk rear wheels.

Step 1.) There are 9 plastic rivets, not 10. (#9 is under the hood release lever). I used a nail set with a broad head to push down the center of the rivets to avoid scratching them

Step 2.) There are actually 5 T25 screws in each side for this step (in addition to the 1 in each side in step 5). I used one of these to get them out: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA10...ht+angle+drill (also great for DIY mudflap install).

Step 8.) The instructions in the guide are accurate, but the picture isn't great. There are no additional screws that need to be removed as part of this step. It really looks like there are, but it's as straightforward as popping off the two tab/loop connection points inside each fender well (behind/under the fender liner cardboard). the front bumper wraps around the back edge of the fender arch by about 1cm on each side (this surface is parallel with your front license plate). You just need to pop off the connection points and pull them out to the sides of the vehicle.

Then, there's a tight connection where the top of the bumper meets the side fender (near the headlight reflector). Just wiggle this a bit back and forth *gently* and it should pop apart. I didn't use any tools to unsnap that connection.

Step 10.) Take the loose end of a ratchet strap (end with no hook), and pass the nylon down between the AC condenser and the stock intercooler. Then use a screwdriver to lift up the foam between the bottom of the radiator and the lower radiator support bracket, enough to push the nylon strap through. Then fish it up on the engine side of the electric fan, thread it into the ratchet at the top and give it a few ratchets to tighten. all you need to do is relieve the pressure from sitting on the lower radiator support bracket.

Step 11.) before you can remove the lower radiator support bracket, you'll need to push the two large round rubber grommets up through the radiator support. Just start at the edge and push them up through with your finger. pretty simple, but wasn't in the original instructions.

Step 12.) Take a break before you start this step. This is by far the longest/most difficult part of the job. Removing hose clamps sounds simple enough, right? In concept, yes. However, if your car was assembled like mine, the head on the hose clamp (7mm) that you need to turn is at the inboard 2:00 position, so whatever tool you use to turn these will need to be able to go up and over the top of the hose. I used one of these with a short (3/4" long), 1/4" drive, 7mm socket on both sides.

The only way I could find to get these off was with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/11-Piece-Ratch...et+screwdriver

I actually have the Husky version from Home Depot which is a 1/4" 5/16" combo wrench. It shows discontinued on their website, but I'm fairly certain our store here still has some. It's a GREAT tool and I use it all the time: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4...DRBD/205543703

Make sure whichever one you get has the 1/4" drive adapter so you can put your socket on it.

The driver's side hose clamp was fairly straightforward once I figured out which tool to use and how to get my hands up there.

Passenger side was not. I had to pull the electric fan up and out by about 4" to be able to get my hand in place (and I have relatively small hands, usually buy size S/M gloves).

To remove the fan, you'll first need to add some support underneath the radiator (I used a tall jack stand with a stack of wood). Then remove your ratchet strap (since it's holding the fan to the radiator).

Then you'll need to unplug the harness (middle of fan, drivers side), then cut the zip tie holding the harness to the mount. You'll need another black zip tie to replace this of course if you cut it.

Once the wiring is free, you can just lift up on the fan assembly. It's clipped at the top on both sides, so I used a screwdriver to pry back the clips a bit while I wiggled each side out.

Once it's out it requires a bit more wiggling (and patience) to get it up the 4" I needed to clear the area underneath so I could get to the passenger intercooler hose clamp.

Step 13a.) - New Step. Remove front lower crash bar attached with 2 gray 15mm bolts directly into frame of car. It's only 2 bolts and it makes the next 10 steps significantly easier

Step 14a.) - New Step. Once the hose clamps are loose, and the intercooler is out all the way you'll want to pry the hose clamps off the intercooler hoses all the way and reposition them so they can be retightened from an easier angle. They have little teeth that are pushing into the inside of the intercooler hoses, so be careful not to tear a chunk out of your hoses.

Step 18.) You may want to cut the opening a little larger in the 1o'clock to 3o'clock position than the picture (and obvious line on the car) would suggest. I did not, but I think the install would have been a bit easier if I had.

Step 19.) For XC60, there are two hard lines on the passenger side of the AC condenser that sit just forward of the condenser (closer to front bumper). I gently pushed these straight back towards the rear of the car so that they now do not protrude in front of the condenser itself. That space now belongs to the intercooler.

Other than that, take your time, follow the DO88 book (which is excellent by the way...I've never had that quality of instructions provided with an aftermarket part!), and PM me with any questions.

Happy wrenching, gents!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
@ Chris, can we move this to the How-to section for S60/V60/Polestar/XC60?
 
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