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Hi,<p>Disclaimer: I know that most of you don't own a diesel s40/v50/c30/c70II, but just in case someone has 1 and feels that the car isn't the same as when he bought it, here is a DIY to help you change the defective valve.<p>I'm in no way responsible for anything you might do and results in engine damage or damage to yourself or others. Do this at your own risk.<br>You may copy this DIY to other Volvo forums, but you must give me credit and send me an IM reporting that you published it elsewhere.<p>Enjoy! <p>In my car i had a bunch of strange symptoms.<br>From 2000 to 2100rpm the car had a hiccup at WOT.<br>If you get to +- 170kph/100mph it would most go into safemode.<br>you could hear a whistle if you where at WOT from 2000 to 3000rpm. <p>Now, Volvo changed the partnumber of the valve, probably due to these problems (i've heard of many 2.0D owners in similar situations). The one in my car had the following partnumber:30650769. The new one is: 31216025<br>The valve is made by pierburg, so it must be possible to get it cheaper directly from an autoparts retailer. <br>Mine was 70euro +- @ Volvo Dealer.<p><br>Necessary tools:<p>- 10mm socket wrench.<br>- gloves<br>- 30minutes +-<br>- this guide<p>1º Open the hood and remove the engine cover. The faulty valve is the brown thing in the first picture.<br><IMG SRC="http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/7/10ia2.jpg" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/3346/80213544sf8.jpg" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/8485/61791473os0.jpg" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/6462/12629657je8.jpg" BORDER="0"><br>Pull up the engine cover and then push it your way.<p>The valve is pointed out by the arrow<br><IMG SRC="http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/2899/45184491cu7.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Use the socket wrench with the 10mm head. There is one bolt above the valve and another under it.<br><IMG SRC="http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/4503/31042124ag9.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>The old valve<br><IMG SRC="http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/7821/59687823tu5.jpg" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/8263/59280065ov7.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Replace the electric plug and the 2 vacuum lines. Maintain the same positions and it's done.<br><IMG SRC="http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/3907/51295853bo2.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Old vs. new (new one is already connected)<br><IMG SRC="http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/800/71081014fn3.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Bolt everything together and you're done.<p> <BR><BR>
<i>Modified by mJrO at 5:29 PM 5-3-2008</i>
 

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Re: [DIY] TCV Change in 2.0Diesel engine (mJrO)

Added this link to the sticky. Thanks!!<p>Tom.
 

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Re: (Shimon)

that's the turbo control valve. i think the name is self explanatory <p>I assumed that it wasn't working right due to reports that I've read in the past of similar cases.<p>I just wanted to share what happened in mine and how to solve it. If you have the symptoms i described then you probably have a faulty valve.<br> <p>as to how does it cause them...Well being that the TCV it controls the amount of boost the turbo produces. Probably the solenoid in the valve wasn't working at 100% and the turbo could be spiking and going outside the range that the ECU allows (that's just a theory to why the car was entering safemode).<br>In one of my trips to the dealer, after they connected the car to the diagnostic machine it showed something like "TCV signal to high", so i think my theory maybe somewhat correct. But hey, I'm no mechanic, I'm just a guy that likes to see how things work <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <BR><BR>
<i>Modified by mJrO at 5:28 PM 5-3-2008</i>
 
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