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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here's a small DIY for you guys doing spring installs. The front is pretty basic, and similar to what you'd see on every other car in the world with the exception of the 4C wires which I'll go over. Unfortunately my cell died as I was starting the rear...so ya lol. Anyways here we go:

step 1:

I like to start with the front so once the wheel is off, you should see this. I like to spray some lube on all the bolts I'm gonna touch, so those are the wet spots in case your wondering.



Step 2:

Undo the two bolts that attach the shock to the steering knuckle like so



Before you take the bolts out, take the ABS wire out from its little mount clip thing...you just need to wiggle it around abit and it shoud come free



Step 3:

There are two clip (I beleive....its been a while) for the 4C wires...undo those





Step 4:

Take off the black box thing...i think its an accelerometer...dont know though. Anyways, take it off.





Step 5:

Take off the nut for the sway bar. Youll need a torx and open end key...Like so:



Move it aside when your done:



Now remove the suspension shock bolt that we un-did before...you may need to tap them out



Step 6:

Remove the upper strut bar to make your life easier





Step 7:

Unclip the 4C plug...Its the bottom one (3rd one from the top)





Now follow the plug you just unclipped and you should end up with your 4C wire on the floor like so



Step 8:

Undo the three top plate mount nuts



Step 9:

Wiggle and jiggle until it comes out...you should end up with a shock on the floor:



and an empty wheel well:



Step 10:

Pry the little cap off with a flat head screw driver



revealed nut



Step 11:

Compress the spring...we dont want anyone loosing fingers lol:



Undo the nut on the top plate



Remove the rubber top plate thing and you'll see this cross looking wing nut thing...undo that by tapping on it with a hammer



Stock Vs Elevate in front....still not low enough IMO lol



Step 12:

Repeat everything for the passenger side. The 4C clip is one of these...can't remember right now lol

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Now repeat everything for re-installation....right now I can't seem to find any of the pictures for the rear dissasembly, so this thread will have to wait to be completed until I take my suspension apart again...which will be soon lol
 

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nice write up. IMHO, the rear is the hard part, getting the 4C connectors out is PITA and then lowering the LCA's low enough to get the strut back in is a huge PITA when you're working by yourself. Aside from that, the rears are straight forward, just don't forget the starter bolt in the trunk floor.
 

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Thanks for posting these up Patrick!:) Too bad you don't have any pictures of the rear, it's what I weally weally need! :rolleyes: Can I assume the rear suspension is only 2 bolts (1 on the floor and 1 at the base shock) for the actual assembly to come out?

Also, whats wrong with your rear suspension that needs disassembly again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for posting these up Patrick!:) Too bad you don't have any pictures of the rear, it's what I weally weally need! :rolleyes: Can I assume the rear suspension is only 2 bolts (1 on the floor and 1 at the base shock) for the actual assembly to come out?

Also, whats wrong with your rear suspension that needs disassembly again?
The biggest bitch about the rear is the rear 4c connectors. I was never able to get them out, so I was just VERY VERY carefull and did everything with the wire still attached. I wouldn't recomend this though lol.

As for whats "wrong" with my suspension that makes it need to be taken apart again, is that it's not low enough lol. Trying to decide between GC sleeves and KW coilovers...still need more info from Zekes before I go with the later option...
 

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The biggest bitch about the rear is the rear 4c connectors. I was never able to get them out, so I was just VERY VERY carefull and did everything with the wire still attached. I wouldn't recomend this though lol.

As for whats "wrong" with my suspension that makes it need to be taken apart again, is that it's not low enough lol. Trying to decide between GC sleeves and KW coilovers...still need more info from Zekes before I go with the later option...
Rear's are easy...just undo the top mount via the trunk. Undo the single bottom bolt, and slide off the bottom of the shock first, the top should slide out after some twisting and having a buddy pull down the lower control arm. Just twist, jiggle its way out.

As for GC Sleeves and KW's.... Your are probably better off with the GC sleeves as you still retain the electronics for the 4c system. With the KW's you will have error messages a plenty. But Its def. nice to see what Zeke says...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rear's are easy...just undo the top mount via the trunk. Undo the single bottom bolt, and slide off the bottom of the shock first, the top should slide out after some twisting and having a buddy pull down the lower control arm. Just twist, jiggle its way out.

As for GC Sleeves and KW's.... Your are probably better off with the GC sleeves as you still retain the electronics for the 4c system. With the KW's you will have error messages a plenty. But Its def. nice to see what Zeke says...
My dilemma is also that if I go with the GC's, I'll still have to replace all of the struts next year (driver front and pass rear are slightly leaking now) which is $$$$. Whereas if I go with the KW's I get shocks also...
 

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My dilemma is also that if I go with the GC's, I'll still have to replace all of the struts next year (driver front and pass rear are slightly leaking now) which is $$$$. Whereas if I go with the KW's I get shocks also...
Ahhh very true. But cost of GC's are so inexpensive... compared to KW's. You can probably get a set of GC's and Struts for similar cost of KW's or am I wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ahhh very true. But cost of GC's are so inexpensive... compared to KW's. You can probably get a set of GC's and Struts for similar cost of KW's or am I wrong?
GC's will be about 500. Shocks are about 380 shipped each, so around $1600. That's 2100. I can pick up the KW's for about 1900....so it's a really close call lol
 

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Nice right up

But the top bolt to the strut can be broke free with the weight of the car.. breaking this free in the car allows the turn plate to stay up inside the car (unless your replacing it)

- The odd shaped nut keeps the spring compressed
 

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Thanks Patrick. Excellent write up.
I will have to disagree with your comment about it not being recommended to leave the rear 4c wires attached. I could not see any better way to do it, unless you have a 2yr old with tiny hands to help you :D As long as the car isn't 5' off the ground the wire is long enough to lay the shock on the ground and do all your work right there.

Also big thanks to chinaonnitrous1 for pointing out that there is a bolt the needs to be removed in the trunk. Without knowing it was there at first I had missed it.
 

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Yes, it's an excellent write up that makes me want to DIMyself. With 180K on my college Sr.s S60, can't justify spending big $$ at the dealer if we can manage it with some patience, common sense and online help!
 

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Front's are nearly identical to the Gen 1 platform except for the 4C plugs and the upper engine mount/shifty strut bar.
Would want to see more of the rear though, that's what I'll be tackling next for my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Front's are nearly identical to the Gen 1 platform except for the 4C plugs and the upper engine mount/shifty strut bar.
Would want to see more of the rear though, that's what I'll be tackling next for my car.
I plan to take the rears apart again on Friday night....so ill be sure to document :)
 
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