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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys I searched the forum and didnt find any DIY's for pads replacements so I decided to create one.

Time Required: 1-2 hours
Skill: 2 ( 1 {tyre change} - 10 {engine overhaul} )
Tools:
  • Flat headed Screwdriver
  • Nail Punch
  • Hammer
  • Jackstands / Jack






 

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I don't see them. Are you using a photo hosting site? If so when posting click the add image button and paste the direct link URL in there. You can go to preview post and make sure it is loading in the post correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
All set now.. I guess using google picasa doesnt work well with forums..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good write up! When do you use the caliper lube? Also, isn't there some special stuff you have to spray on with volvo brakes?
Caliper/Brake Lube used on the back of the new pads before you put them in.. As far as I know there isn't anything you have to spray on brembo brakes..

awesome write-up.
Thanks
 

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Good simple pictures and write-up. Some cleaning and lubing steps are missing, but that's OK.

On another note, it looks like you have some serious oil leak somewhere in that wheel-well. Doesn't look good at all...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good simple pictures and write-up. Some cleaning and lubing steps are missing, but that's OK.

On another note, it looks like you have some serious oil leak somewhere in that wheel-well. Doesn't look good at all...
Haha, I thought that too, but its only water/slush that was there.. No oil leaks whatsoever
 

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Cool. So the rears are identical to the fronts in terms of pad removal/installation. :)

Yeah, I noticed we didn't have actual pics of brake pad replacement, either. This vid:
has been a great tutorial since the front calipers are nearly identical minus color (obviously) and cotter pins.

Also, you might want to note that Volvo suggests covering the flat head screwdriver with a towel etc. to avoid damaging the pistons when depressing them.
 

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Good write up! When do you use the caliper lube? Also, isn't there some special stuff you have to spray on with volvo brakes?
I believe the new pads (OEM anyway) come with it. I bought some at pepboys for a couple bucks as mine were squealing when I bought it. Lube goes on the back of the pad/plate that is against the piston as s60 said. I also lubed the pins and the snap spring (basically anywhere you have metal to metal contact) as that was a source of a squeal I had. Just don't get it on the contact surface of the pad or brake disc.
 

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I believe the new pads (OEM anyway) come with it. I bought some at pepboys for a couple bucks as mine were squealing when I bought it. Lube goes on the back of the pad/plate that is against the piston as s60 said. I also lubed the pins and the snap spring (basically anywhere you have metal to metal contact) as that was a source of a squeal I had. Just don't get it on the contact surface of the pad or brake disc.
I think there is no need to lube the face of the pad, just the top and bottom section that slide against the caliper. The Volvo pads actually have a sticky surface (anti squeal).

For beginners it may make sense to also mention that you shoud be very careful with the screwdriver around the rubber grommet around the piston. Usually better to use something in between (like the pads before you remove them).
 

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Don't think you need to open the reservoir cap, it's worst if you let in air and would need to bleed the brakes, the brake system should automatically recycle the brake pressure/access brake fluid back into the master or slave cylinder. Great write up though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
For beginners it may make sense to also mention that you shoud be very careful with the screwdriver around the rubber grommet around the piston. Usually better to use something in between (like the pads before you remove them).
Highly Agree!
Thats the best brake pad replacement write up, EVER. Thank you!
Thanks, DIY for front rotors and pads coming soon
Don't think you need to open the reservoir cap, it's worst if you let in air and would need to bleed the brakes, the brake system should automatically recycle the brake pressure/access brake fluid back into the master or slave cylinder. Great write up though!
Really!? Never knew that.. well I guess its never too late to learn something new
 

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Squealing when warm

I believe the new pads (OEM anyway) come with it. I bought some at pepboys for a couple bucks as mine were squealing when I bought it. Lube goes on the back of the pad/plate that is against the piston as s60 said. I also lubed the pins and the snap spring (basically anywhere you have metal to metal contact) as that was a source of a squeal I had. Just don't get it on the contact surface of the pad or brake disc.
I lubed the sides of the pads so the pads would easily fit into its place. I drove about 100 miles with the new redstuff pads on, but the pads start squealing once the pads get warm. It doesn't squeal when I'm driving slowly in the parking garage after the car has been parked for a while. Does anyone have experience with the squealing, and if this is normal for the first few hundred miles? I'm not sure if it has gotten any better than when I first installed the pads.
 

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Don't think you need to open the reservoir cap, it's worst if you let in air and would need to bleed the brakes, the brake system should automatically recycle the brake pressure/access brake fluid back into the master or slave cylinder. Great write up though!
Yeah, you do need to open the cap. That will make it much easier to depress the pistons. You are not going to let air into the system by leaving the cap off. That only happens when bleeding the breaks if you don't continually add fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I lubed the sides of the pads so the pads would easily fit into its place. I drove about 100 miles with the new redstuff pads on, but the pads start squealing once the pads get warm. It doesn't squeal when I'm driving slowly in the parking garage after the car has been parked for a while. Does anyone have experience with the squealing, and if this is normal for the first few hundred miles? I'm not sure if it has gotten any better than when I first installed the pads.
Yes I'm using the same pads.. This is normal, it'll go away once your at 500-750miles.
 

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You really dont need to open the cap. It wont hurt. But it also wont hurt to open the cap. Its really a preference to people. Just watch the level in the resovoir that it doesnt overflow, it will make a mess.
 

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Yeah, you do need to open the cap. That will make it much easier to depress the pistons. You are not going to let air into the system by leaving the cap off. That only happens when bleeding the breaks if you don't continually add fluid.
Well, from my knowledge and experience while changing my brake pads on a few of my vehicles, if you loosen the brake fluid valve to let fluid out of the brake pistons, it will let air in one way or another. The rubber cap is just weather protection for the brass valve which is normally tightened. So if your saying that loosening the brake fluid valve(cap) won't let air in, I would have to disagree. You will need to bleed the brakes afterward if you loosen it(at least you will need to check if you did).

I use a C-clamp to depress the pistons, and it doesn't take a lot of effort to depress without the valve loosened(as long as there isn't someone stepping on the brake in the car LOL). I've also used pieces of wood, and a gentle pry of a crow bar to do it as well with no issues.

As for the reservoir, if you're not adding new fluid to the brake system, that little bit that recycles back to the master cylinder won't be too much to overflow it.
 
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