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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Fancy solid strut brace mounts but don't want to pay a premium? Here's how you can achieve the same results for a few dollars and a trip to your local hardware store.

Tools:
- 18mm wrench (for mounting nuts)
- 17mm socket (for mounting bolts)
- 14mm socket (for bracket bolts)
- Hack saw or reciprocating saw

Materials:
- 4x 3/4" washers

Optional:
- 2x 1/2"x4" bolts and flange nuts for an even tighter fit

Here are the washers I used from Home Depot (Canada). They're H. Paulin #146-026 (3/4" bolt size, 13/16" ID, 2" OD, 9/64" thick)


Procedure:
1. Disconnect the strut brace from the mounts using your 18mm wrench on the nut and 17mm socket on the bolt.

2. Remove the mounts from your vehicle using your 14mm socket

3. Secure the mount to a vice or something where you can safely cut it


4. Cut the bottom part of the mount where it extends past the metal bracket using your hacksaw or reciprocating saw. I used a reciprocating saw and an 18 TPI blade.


Here is a mock up of how the washers will work. You want the washers to sit flush against the metal bracket, forming a solid mount when tightened.


5. Reinstall the mounts with the washers. Tighten the brace to the mounts first, then the mount to the vehicle. You can use the optional 1/2"x4" bolts and nuts for a tighter fit.

Finished product:


The brace is now rock solid and no longer rocks around! Simply remove the washers if you wish to go back to stock.

Driving Impressions:
The solid mounts work better than the poly inserts I had previously. Specifically:
- No change in NVH on my automatic with stock rubber top mount
- Turn in is sharper
- Steering is more responsive
- Car feels more stable going over bumps and in turns

The effectiveness of the solid mounts will likely depend on the other modifications you have and the age/condition of your spring seats.

References:
http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/318-scrooge-to-the-rescue/#
 

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Nice. Definitely looks better than those blue hunks of overpriced **** I bought from IPD :) All jokes aside though, good job. Curious to hear your take on its effectiveness--or lack thereof. I realize I never really posted my thoughts on the IPD version in my build thread. After 3 months of use of day they absolutely make for improved cornering. But I will also say that while it is a real improvement, it is a very minimal one and I don't want to overstate it.

Also A+ on keeping it deep ghetto instead of Original Volvo
 

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Yep. R owners have been doing this for a long time. I went with poly inserts/washers because I wanted to be fancy.
 

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This makes no sense. The beam isn't a strut brace, it's an engine mount. So for one thing you're stressing parts of the strut towers that aren't meant to be stressed in that way-- Look at a real strut brace, it mounts to the top with all the strut bolts. For another, you're turning your engine mount into a mostly solid mount. It has rubber bushings for a reason, so it can stabilize the engine while also dampening vibration.
 

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This makes no sense. The beam isn't a strut brace, it's an engine mount. So for one thing you're stressing parts of the strut towers that aren't meant to be stressed in that way-- Look at a real strut brace, it mounts to the top with all the strut bolts. For another, you're turning your engine mount into a mostly solid mount. It has rubber bushings for a reason, so it can stabilize the engine while also dampening vibration.
The way the strut tower mushrooms it's almost like it's not meant to take the weight of the vehicle. :p

I think you're fine.
 

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Read this, pulled far up ,took everything apart ,used a bench grinder to shave it down,burnt **** out of my thumb, put it back together..took maybe 10 min. Took a test drive whooped around some curves, actually have less vibration. Nice post ..������
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Curious to hear your take on its effectiveness--or lack thereof. I realize I never really posted my thoughts on the IPD version in my build thread. After 3 months of use of day they absolutely make for improved cornering. But I will also say that while it is a real improvement, it is a very minimal one and I don't want to overstate it.

Also A+ on keeping it deep ghetto instead of Original Volvo
I've had some more seat time now and I can attest that the solid mounts work better than the IPD poly inserts I had before:
- No change in NVH on my automatic V70 with stock rubber top mount
- Turn in is sharper
- Steering is more responsive
- Car feels more stable going over bumps and in turns

Their effectiveness will likely depend on the other modifications you have and the age/condition of your spring seats.
 

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Oh wait..did I mention it cost me 75 cents to do this? And really there isn't enough stress force for it to really matter where its mounted, that's my opinion ..if your racing or putting your car into sharp curves everyday it may..but I like the results of a cheap out ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh wait..did I mention it cost me 75 cents to do this? And really there isn't enough stress force for it to really matter where its mounted, that's my opinion ..if your racing or putting your car into sharp curves everyday it may..but I like the results of a cheap out ..
If you're feeling baller, you can replace the factory bolts with girthier M12x100 or 1/2"x4" bolts for an even tighter fit.
 

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This is making me happy
 

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I've had some more seat time now and I can attest that the solid mounts work better than the IPD poly inserts I had before:
- No change in NVH on my automatic V70 with stock rubber top mount
- Turn in is sharper
- Steering is more responsive
- Car feels more stable going over bumps and in turns

Their effectiveness will likely depend on the other modifications you have and the age/condition of your spring seats.
It's probably placebo effect. If it's legit, you are channeling a LOT of force through those **engine mounts**
 

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That may be true ,would rather channel that force on 2 plates beside the strut tower in stead of all that force on the srtut towers and mounting bolts..either way feels very solid hit some serious curves today.. No play in what I did ..the R guys said doing it for a long time...
 

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All a solid brace is doing is keeping the engine from moving and removing a little in/out play from the strut towers. It's reducing the suspension geometry change from chassis flex.
 
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