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Well, here it is! I spent about 16 hours of my own single-handed labor. Things went pretty smooth for the most part. I gotta thank Jesse http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif for all the email support he has given me in addition to his wonderful writeup on his own FMIC install.

I will mention that the Front Bumper cover and upper cross member can be removed per VADIS instructions, so theres no need for me to bother reiterating them. While I was at it, I took out the stock air filter box, the 'ram' tubing, and the black plastic cover beside the airbox. It gives you 10x more room and will be needed later on, so its best to do it NOW.

I started with the obvious of draining the R-134A.
DISCLAIMER: please have a professional PROPERLY evacuate your system. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif


I took a garden hose and rinsed everything off afterwards because I didn't want to be playing with 'green' on my hands.


There are four connecting bolts which hold the combination of radiator, stock IC, and A/C condenser together which must be removed before anything gets dropped out. They are pretty easy to get to. You must also disconnect the A/C lines from each side of the condenser. Remove the lower IC from its two hoses. Be careful, and the condenser should drop right down. Disconnect the two charge air hoses from the main IC. There are two bolts that support the RADIATOR from underneath which need to be removed so you can temporarily move the radiator backwards in order to shimmy the stock IC out without breaking anything. This took me a little time to figure out. It works easier if you pull the driver side of the IC out first, and then as you push back against the radiator, work the passenger side loose. Its a good feeling when that baby finally comes loose



After that, you can just load the condenser back in and I used a smaller bolt to re-secure it to the radiator at those 4 connection points mentioned earlier. You should also reconnect the A/C lines to each side while you are at it, as to not forget them later



Looking down through the side that I was going to have to run the new piping, I was a little nervous, because there were ECU wires, an A/C line, and another set of wires, and everything was happily situated right in front of the serpentine belt


I was especially nervous after I went back and re-read Jesse's FMIC thread and realized he used 2" pipe at that spot vs. the 2.5" that I'm using, so I really thought I was hosed!


I cut a small steel plate and welded it to the bumper which would be my upper support for the new FMIC. I just took a tape measure and cut the distance between the two tabs on the bumper to find the center and marked it, drilled my hole, voila!


There she sits...suspended in place
(it doesn't look centered in that photo because of the angle, but it is, trust me)


I put the new pipe in the place where it was to be connected to the stock over-engine tube so I could grab some measurements in order to cut-to-length & weld.


"Hot" side piping complete!


(LMAO, I just noticed the coltage toothpaste in the photo
)


just making sure the "Hot" piping actually fits...


How the tubing snakes around. You can kind of get a feel for how LITTLE room there actually is going up through that point.


I used the stock plastic piece that comes off the throttle body because it already contained the bung for that required vacuum line, but I did cut some of the end of, pretty much right after the bung...just enough room to fit a coupling on. However, the IAT sensor is located on the stock IC (jerks!
) so I had to remove that and secure it to that plastic piece (orientation correct, as Jesse mentioned!). I used a 45 degree bend to point my toward the access port on the driver side, and another 180 degree snake turn into the cold side of the FMIC. I had to use a coupling at this point because I didn't have enough shielding gas to be comfortable with any more welds.

In order to go through the access point I did, I had to relocate the little pump shown to the left of the middle hose-coupling. I should have taken a better picture of this part...sorry! Its secured to two points by 10mm bolts with a 10mm nut on the other end.....very easy to move!


This just shows that a 3" core is MEANT for this car

Absolutely ZERO room left, but at least the bumper didn't have to be cut!


All IC components connected!


Conclusion: I can't post a final picture until I get my 5 degree rotation issue fixed. It was nice and level until I put the bumper back on, and something shifted so its tilted about 5 degrees clockwise.

I used 2.5" pipe from the connection at the over-engine pipe, all the way through until I meet up with the plastic tube off the throttle body.
I used (4) 2.5"-2.5" silicon hose couplers and (1) 2.5"-2.0" silicon hose coupler.

I did have to trim off about 3/4" of the inner lip on the bumper cover, or else it would dig into the IC fins

Modified by phuz at 9:14 AM 3-19-2007
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (phuz)

That looks pretty cool, you are talented, I don't think I could do anything like that. It's great that you can, it's hard to get others to do things the way you want it done. I guess you just take more pride in your own stuff. Let us know how it works when your done.
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (timxc90)

Great write up! Thanks. The one thing that baffles me is that you used the term welding" more than once. I was not aware that we would have to do any welding from the posts prior from BELL.
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (Mash)

Quote, originally posted by Mash »
Great write up! Thanks. The one thing that baffles me is that you used the term welding" more than once. I was not aware that we would have to do any welding from the posts prior from BELL.

this is NOT a Bell intercooler kit (hence the DIY in the title
). I am sure they do their own welding in making the kit that they sell, but this is a 100% custom job. I bought everything separately and fabricated everything on-the-fly.
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (phuz)

awesome! now make me one!
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (phuz)

Once again.....Phuz is the man. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

BTW, I didn't read anything about refilling the coolant once completed.
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (MagoonR)

Quote, originally posted by MagoonR »

BTW, I didn't read anything about refilling the coolant once completed.

you don't have to drain the coolant, only the R-134A refrigerant...which since i dont plan on using my A/C for another few months, im fine with that


Quote, originally posted by R_Rated »
looks good! what core are you using?

using the yonaka type 10....which is 22x9x3. i did my homework across several boards and everyone loves the yonaka for the $$. since i am not trying to build the R into a beast, i don't see the need to spend outrageous amounts of money trying to squeeze every pony i can.

the next test is to get out on the streets with my PCM scan and get some datalogging of flow rates so I can see how much more I am flowing vs. the stock IC.
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (phuz)

Quote, originally posted by phuz »
you don't have to drain the coolant, only the R-134A refrigerant...which since i dont plan on using my A/C for another few months, im fine with that

Quick FYI, the front defroster (and maybe the climate control) will kick the A/C compressor in. Be careful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (MagoonR)

Quote, originally posted by MagoonR »


Quick FYI, the front defroster (and maybe the climate control) will kick the A/C compressor in. Be careful.

yeah very true! luckily i never use that "feature"
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (phuz)

Quote, originally posted by phuz »
yeah very true! luckily i never use that "feature"

I don't use the climate control either but the defroster does come in handy from time to time.
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (phuz)

I wouldn't leave the AC empty and open for months and months either. From what I understand AC systems are particularly prone to moisture problems, even if they are still sealed and the pressure has dropped off by a leak and not noticed for a while can lead to problems. This is stuff I've picked up over the years, don't know how true it is but on such a modern car for the few bucks to get it filled seems like the wrong side of the risk/reward curve.
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (vintagemilano)

Quote, originally posted by vintagemilano »
I wouldn't leave the AC empty and open for months and months either. From what I understand AC systems are particularly prone to moisture problems, even if they are still sealed and the pressure has dropped off by a leak and not noticed for a while can lead to problems. This is stuff I've picked up over the years, don't know how true it is but on such a modern car for the few bucks to get it filled seems like the wrong side of the risk/reward curve.

You can ruin the seals in the system as well...they will can dry out.
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (phuz)

Very impressive. Great job! http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: DIY FMIC Install Weekend (dugums)

Quote, originally posted by dugums »

If anybody else follows the DIY instructions PLEASE evacuate your AC system properly.

Thanks for bringing this up, as I clearly forgot. I wasn't aware of the mess it was going to make until I was already knee-deep, so its definitely a good idea to have someone, even a indy shop, properly evacuate the system before disconnecting anything.
 

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Its also very very very illegal to DIY on 134a or any type of Non CFC refigerant or on you older volvos the R-22 CFC refigerant.

Hence why you need you refigerant liscense to buy refigerant, and yes the stuff the sell in the little cans at Advance or what ever auto parts store is illegal to sell but no one cares.

Also leaving that open for more then a day will do damage to the compressor and the gaskets in the compressor the worst thing for your HVAC system is water or any type of foreign objects.

If you want to know why this is bad PM , with 11 years in the HVAC Industry I have a little bit of understanding lol also as a Rep for the second largest HVAC Manufacture world wide
 
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