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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
depending on your skill level, the car could be sitting for a week. but you will have a fmic that is of better quality, design, looks, and costs less than what you can buy as a kit.

you wont have to drain the radiator or the AC to do this either.

to remove the old IC i read over some other peoples instructions on how to do it, but they were lacking. and its bc you really cant tell someone all the bs it is to remove the old IC. i read one guy cut his IC endtanks off which def would make this easier, but i wanted to save the old IC just in case i ever sold the car as stock... highly unlikely but yeah.

so the instructions help with taking the bumper off and the cross member, but if you cant figure that out on your own, you shouldnt be doing this in the first place. once you have everything out the way you can remove the old IC pipes and get ready to fight like a bitch to get the IC out. the problem is the in/outlets of the stock IC. they cant be moved up or down due to the radiator supports being in the way. so i have no idea how IPD took theirs out the bottom in their install video. a lot of time must have been edited out of the video lol. but the only way i could take the IC out was to remove the bolts holding the radiator in (careful you will need to use something to support everything now as they all are supported by the rad) and push the rad as much as you can towards the engine so it will clear the IC endtanks and slide out the top. i did it one side at a time and use much force.

once that is out you can now do the whole shorter screws and washers from the hardware store thing to push the AC against the radiator.

now your options. i was originally going to mount the IC upright like VIVAs but i ran into major fitment issues. the passenger side was ok i could get the pipe through, but the driver side was so cramped the only way to make it work was to pinch the hell out of the silicone 90. the other thing i realized was that even though the whole IC is going to see heat transfer, really the section across the in/outlets is going to see the most heat and that section ends up being right behind the metal bumper. kinda dumb if you ask me.

the other reason why mounting it upright is not really feasible with the universal kit is the silicone 90s that come with the kit are short. and the space on the drivers side is so small you cant get a pipe through. only a 90. like this:


if you still wanna do upright. and can find this 90 VIVA uses, then all you need to complete his kit is a long L 90 aluminum pipe and 3" to 2.5" elbow reducer for the TB from CX Racing. to do something like this:



what you cant see here is that the pipe isnt actually in the hose. bc the pipe cant fit through that space.

the next problem i found with mounting it upright is that the section of the IC at the in/outlets seems to be just a little bit thicker than the bottom. enough to make it a bitch of a fit. mainly on the passenger side. oh and if you havent removed that dumb plastic attached to the bumper by now, do so. the AC line on the pass side is so big and squishes the silicon 90 so much that you can barely get it on the IC inlet. i got it on, but without a clamp. and it was half-assed for sure.




you can see how tight it is and that is with the AC pushed completely against the rad (no washers). i think viva makes you drill new holes to push the radiator and AC back even farther to compensate this.

i thought i could buy myself some more room by grinding this lip off the bumper, but that was an hour wasted.



anyways. upside down was the way to go and solved all these problems. some ppl argue that the extra pipe makes the system less efficient. but i think the fact that: its easier to do, you only use less that a foot of extra pipe, and your area of most heat transfer on the IC is exposed makes it the much better option.

the L 90 off CX Racing is gonna be your friend in this build. i used 3 of them for 80% of the piping with NO work lol. first the OTE pipe. get a 2" to 2.5" silicon straight reducer. put it on the turbo, put the pipe on the reducer. done.


now, what i must mention. is that although this works, i found later that the short part of the L 90 pipe was just a little bit too long making the pipe too high and when i piped the rest of the OTE pipe and closed the hood...it hit. good thing i got extra pipe. so just cut a few inches off that so the pipe lays closer across the engine. i think i cut it an inch past the lip on the pipe. you be the judge, doesnt have to be exact.

now that youve got a ton of motivation from doing that bc it looks great and was half the OTE pipe. move on to the rest of the hot side pipe.

stick with this design, but instead just turn that silicon 90 straight down.



now by using a 90 off the IC and turning it up, you can join the 2 pipes with a little piece of alum pipe. again you be the judge on how big. doesnt have to be exact as you can always stuff more pipe into the elbow.

like this:



so the L 90 pipe used for all that ends up coming up perfectly between the rad fan and the intake mani. i decided to join the two pipes here with a silicon coupler to make it easy if i ever wanted to remove the IC setup.


now work back to the OTE pipe. i used a 70 degree alum pipe to come off the hot side. here is where it gets tedious bc you are going to constantly have to cut both the 70 deg pipe, and the 45 deg pipe going to the turbo one after another in little increments so the fit is perfect. i also did all this with a hacksaw so that was another reason why this project took so long. but here is a little slide show of what you want:

first cut the 70 deg pipe where it meets the at the intake mani until it lines straight up with the OTE pipe. you can see at the very bottom of the pic it is going to have to be cut almost at the bend.



now all it takes is a 45 pipe to join the two. but because there is so much play in the silicon adapters used on the turbo and there between the intake mani you really have to plan this out. a tiny wiggle in the adapter at the turbo will cause a big degree of sway at the end of the pipe. i went through two sets of pipe bc first i just cut the pipes and had huge gaps. you really want to measure and mark like 20 times before you cut. i recommend cutting the 70 pipe first so you can only worry about matching one pipe. plus the 70 pipe has the most movement in it and the ability to turn the pipe changing the angel at which the 45 pipe will line up with the OTE pipe. like this:



now you can cut the OTE where ever you want, cut the 45 at a good spot to meet the 70. and do a combination of turning the 70 in its coupler and the 45 at the 70 to make more angle variations than you know what to do with until you think you have a good spot for it to meet the OTE pipe. now cut the 45 ( and i strongly recommend cutting less off than you think you need bc you can always cut more) and by less i mean too much. bc i thought i had plenty for error then i join the two and i have a gap between the 45 and the 90 like how the hell did that happen.

oh yeah, these pipes are cheap. buy more than one for when you mess up.


finished will look like this. as you can see, the bend in the 45 should be right about where the silver valve cover is.


you can see all my permanent marker notches on each side of the pipe joints bc even though i was able to cut the pipes at the right lengths, there was still gaps either at the top or the bottom of each joint. it was very hard to get both joints to be perfectly flush (needed to be welded) but i was able to achieve this by a combination of wiggling the OTE pipe via the play in the adapter at the turbo (which i forgot to mention should have been clamped tight this whole time) and swiveling the 70 in its coupler changing the angle of the 45 pipe ever so slightly. here is a good one to kinda show the direction you want the pipes.


okay break time. then ill post up the cold side.
 

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Stellar work, very clean installation and awesome home brew DIY!
 

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Looks good. I see what you did there.
Funny - I didnt have any fitment issues with my VIVA FMIC.

But, I do like your new OTE pipe - I'm going to want to build/buy one like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
to mount the IC (bc that is really what you want to do before fitting the pipes to keep movement to a min and make sure you got everything where you want it) i used the brackets that came with the IC and a 3 foot piece of angle aluminum from Lowe's. hardware section and it is marked with purple on the end.

to support the bottom i used this angle alum and just cut it to length of the AC where the mounting brackets are that were used for the stock secondary smaller IC (gonna have to bend them a little so its flat and flush across). drill holes in the right places and you can use the same bolts. i thought this was going to be good, but then when you go and drop the IC into place you realize the back of the angle alum that is against the AC does not allow the IC to drop down as far as you want it. to solve this i used a sawzaw and literally cut the back out. so what you end up with is a flat piece of alum with only angles at each end to still allow you to mount it to the AC tabs. something like this (sorry i didnt take pictures during installation)


you can see how i let the mounting things of the IC hang below the alum bar. and where i have it marked with marker bc i though of cutting little half circles to let them seat in. but it ended up working so good like this and by not doing that the IC has a little bit of a tilt to it where the top is touching the AC condenser and the bottom is held very tightly by the IC mounts being pushed against the bar. so much so that you cant even wiggle it by hand. i figured if i cut those circles out, it would not put any pressure against the top and the whole IC would vibrate.

you be the judge on your build. for the top, i just bolted down the supplied mounts, and used a hammer to bend them down to the bumper. mounted it to the bumper with an anchor kit (thats the plastic anchors used for drywall)



now for the cold side. i messed around for a day with trying to get the entire cold side done with alum pipe. but then i realized what for? i was going to have to reduce the pipe off the throttle body from 3" to 2.5" with a silicon 90 anyways. and that is what the plastic pipe does. i dont get why some guys on here are so against using the plastic pipe here. its cold air. i may eventually go back and do this with alum pipe but i was getting pretty eager beaver with this build and the working space here to fit pipes together was not going to be as easy as the OTE pipe. so i cut the stock pipe where it then reduces from 2.5" to 2". it ended up working out perfectly at the right spot so i could throw a 45 silicon elbow on it and use a metal pipe for the rest.



use another L 90 and turn it down and use your judgement to cut to the right length.




to mount the IAC there is going to be very little room now. so little that once its all said and done and mounted, you will have to install the pipe without it, then attach it to the pipe. but dont worry, it all works fine. will have to use your judgement but the best place is a little **** eyed towards the radiator. so if 12 oclock is straight up here on the pipe, 9 would be the radiator and the sensor would be like 10:30. i just put a dot there with a marker and told the shop the sensor must go here. took it to a local machine shop that could weld alum. told them what i needed and they had no problem fabbing up a flat surface with a whole in it to mount the IAC. (make sure the hole is the right size to tightly fit the rubber grommet of the IAC too)



and that about does it. few extra things i did: used HVAC foam tape between the bumper and IC because i saw future chafing possible. and the same foam tape between the AC line and the pipe with the IAC bc that was also very close. IC size you want to use is 29x12x3.

Let me know if you have any question and enjoy!!!
 

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Nice write up, look forward to using this to do my own one day.
 

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Good job and good write up. I'm curious why you decided to replace the OTE pipe entirely instead of working with it?
 

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Agreed, but change the title because its not a damn OTE pipe :screwy:
LOL!

Mullen, I'm sure lots of folks [myself included] would love to know part#'s or links to where you bought your supplies, and total cost of the project [if you know it]. This seems very doable, even for a bum like me, especially if I had a helping hand for a day or two. [I'll have to sweettalk my car enthusiast neighbor with beer and pizza :D]

This is excellent work, and I always assumed folks who got such nice handiwork had angle grinders and other tools I don't have. Did you really just use a hacksaw for cutting the aluminum piping?

And maybe I'm just IC ignorant, but does anyone make center in/out endtanks, and why would they not be useful here? I've always seen them oriented to one side.
 

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Also forgot to ask, but will the bigger charge air pipe lead to any significant pressure loss across the intake system? Same volume of air in a bigger pipe = lower velocity, correct?? [I think I'm doing Bernoulli justice here ;) ]
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
LOL!

Mullen, I'm sure lots of folks [myself included] would love to know part#'s or links to where you bought your supplies, and total cost of the project [if you know it]. This seems very doable, even for a bum like me, especially if I had a helping hand for a day or two. [I'll have to sweettalk my car enthusiast neighbor with beer and pizza :D]

This is excellent work, and I always assumed folks who got such nice handiwork had angle grinders and other tools I don't have. Did you really just use a hacksaw for cutting the aluminum piping?

And maybe I'm just IC ignorant, but does anyone make center in/out endtanks, and why would they not be useful here? I've always seen them oriented to one side.
everything was purchased from CXRacing.com (if you use their ebay store you get free shipping and the stuff is cheaper, weird i know.)
i got this kit, had two of every pipe i needed for mistakes:
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...=IC0016-KIT250-4L-EB4590&Category_Code=ICDK16

it comes one 45 and one 90 silicon elbow but you need more than that. i found it was better to call them bc the kits has blue hoses and you can ask for black. plus even though the IC says 11" its a 12". maybe i got lucky so you should ask about that too. if you call with the ebay part numbers ready they will place the order with free ship from cali.

also get:
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...&Product_Code=SH250R200-76&Category_Code=HSCM
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...=CXR&Product_Code=SH250-90&Category_Code=SLEB (three of them)

that comes to about $300. to have a shop weld it up will be $100-$200 depending on where you go n who you know. the angle iron at Lowe's was $15. the bolts and washers ~$5.

so for under $500 you get a fmic and the ote pipe for a little more work than installing a pre made kit really.

as for the side in/outlets IC's. wont work. bc you can see in my pics there was just enough room to get the two 90 elbows in. they are pretty much touching with a short piece of pipe there just to have something to clamp down on.

yep, just a hacksaw. i have a cutting wheel but i found the hacksaw to give straighter cuts. just use a marker and draw around the pipe. then cut half way on that line all the way around the pipe, then saw threw that bitch and it will follow your half cut etch you just did. then use sand paper to smooth the edges. i didnt even have a vice, i sat in my garage and held the pipe in my lap haha
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Also forgot to ask, but will the bigger charge air pipe lead to any significant pressure loss across the intake system? Same volume of air in a bigger pipe = lower velocity, correct?? [I think I'm doing Bernoulli justice here ;) ]
not sure. havent noticed any and havent heard anything about it from other people that use 2.5" piping. if anything the stock pipe is restricting air. esp if you are tuned.
 

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then what is it? looks like an Over The Engine pipe to me?
:mad: its a CHARGE AIR PIPE. One time many moons ago some fool described it as an OTE and somehow it stuck but in reality its called a Charge Air Pipe because that's what it is.

Oh ya its also called a Charge Air Pipe in the Volvo parts catalog too.

Jeeeez I'm starting to feel like Zak with his hatred towards rims and wheels :p

But ya, nice write up :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
:mad: its a CHARGE AIR PIPE. One time many moons ago some fool described it as an OTE and somehow it stuck but in reality its called a Charge Air Pipe because that's what it is.

Oh ya its also called a Charge Air Pipe in the Volvo parts catalog too.

Jeeeez I'm starting to feel like Zak with his hatred towards rims and wheels :p

But ya, nice write up :thumbup:
oh. whattteverrr. change it in the title then i dont care.
 

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not sure. havent noticed any and havent heard anything about it from other people that use 2.5" piping. if anything the stock pipe is restricting air. esp if you are tuned.
True, much like many other parts on the car [downpipe, for sure]. So your whole system is 2.5inch from the turbo to the IC, which is 3 inches, then 3>2.5>2inch at the throttle body, right? Just so I'm seeing the sizes correctly
 
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