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Does it have a manufacturer identification of some type? Specs? I would be interested, but going onto facebook is a deal breaker.
Why the cloak and dagger stuff?
Don’t know. Ask him :) all I know is that I have a great unit that works with the original dynaudio amp while keeping rear park sensors and steering wheel controls :)
 

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I researched a lot of Android units before buying my ATOTO A6, and yes, there are a lot of Android systems out there. I'm very happy with what I have, but I start to drool when I see bigger-newer-faster. I've had my system for almost 2 years, and I'm really just learning what the value and the limitations are of the Android ecosystem. There are no really good music players designed for Android car HU's, for example. I've tried an incredible number of MP3, stored music, and file apps that probably work great on phones, but there are a lot of deficiencies out there. That's another thread, though.
A very pertinent specs issue is native storage and memory. When there are multi-tasking functions taking place, like Google Maps updating while music is playing in another app, the second BT channel is relaying Canbus to a running app, the WiFi subsystem is streaming map updates and/or music, or a dash cam is added to the mix, things can slow down or stutter. Then the phone rings.....
I have 4GB of memory, and haven't torture tested the concurrent functions, yet. Just anticipating the scenario makes me wonder what the limitations of Android are. For example; is there a memory ceiling like older Windows where more memory is neither recognized or used? The need to learn is imminent, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
That's really interesting. You didn't have to replace your Dynaudio amp? What did you do, bypass it? Everyone's been telling me I can't bypass/remove the amp and that I have to replace the amp, which is why I started this thread in the first place.

Can anyone confirm? What do you have to do to the amp for a Dynaudio car when you're installing any HU? I'm looking at the Sony XAV-AX1000 because of it's physical volume knob and front USB placement.

Here's my parts list guys: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1XrkPaZcfI5q6nw2rCrDHxd5-WTT1aqafUdNs8j4h6C4/edit?usp=sharing

P.S: I'm still waiting on a reply from Chris and MusicarNW to finalize my parts and then I'll order them from this list. I just don't have a clear and definitive answer on the amp!! (see above)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
OP - After you remove everything with an orange FO cable, you can use any amp you wish. It really comes down to packaging. In other words, where can you stuff an amp, how many channels do you need, etc.
So are you saying that I can just remove the amp, and then put in my own? Could you please recommend one? I have the Dolby Logic Pro II sound system and don't plan on adding any subwoofers or changing any of the speakers, I like them. That's groundbreaking! :) Thanks Rob.

BTW, my email is [email protected] we can communicate there, as well if you are OK with it.
 

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The kit I described above, used the AUX input on my premium audio system. By far the easiest way to get aftermarket audio in your car, no fiddling around with your amp. If you have AUX in..
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Everyone: Quick Update

Just ordered all the parts from this document. NOTE: I have a lot of other tools (wire strippers, heat shrink, soldering iron, solder, electrical tape, etc.) that I didn't need to buy, so I didn't list them. I will update you as I start building once the parts come in next Monday the 10th. Meanwhile, can anyone please recommend any amps for me? Or maybe certain features or specifications I need to look in one that will work with my specific setup? Again, I have 7 speakers (including center), 6 CD changer, DYNAUDIO, and olby Logic Pro II. I do NOT plan on changing out the factory speakers, just need to replace the factory amp as I have been told. Just need help with this one last part!

Thanks everyone!
 

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If you remove all of the MOST items you will not have Dolby or a CD changer. Yes?

You will have 7 speakers or 7 channels? Do you plan to power all of the factory drivers?

I didn't see a DSP listed. Are you still going with the Sony HU?

How many people typically ride with you?

Still no subwoofer?
 

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Everyone: Quick Update

Just ordered all the parts from this document. NOTE: I have a lot of other tools (wire strippers, heat shrink, soldering iron, solder, electrical tape, etc.) that I didn't need to buy, so I didn't list them. I will update you as I start building once the parts come in next Monday the 10th. Meanwhile, can anyone please recommend any amps for me? Or maybe certain features or specifications I need to look in one that will work with my specific setup? Again, I have 7 speakers (including center), 6 CD changer, DYNAUDIO, and olby Logic Pro II. I do NOT plan on changing out the factory speakers, just need to replace the factory amp as I have been told. Just need help with this one last part!

Thanks everyone!
The seven speakers represent five audio channels: front left, centre, right and rear left and right. Most aftermarket amps and head units do not do Dolby processing so you will lose the center channel.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #29
If you remove all of the MOST items you will not have Dolby or a CD changer. Yes?

You will have 7 speakers or 7 channels? Do you plan to power all of the factory drivers?

I didn't see a DSP listed. Are you still going with the Sony HU?

How many people typically ride with you?

Still no subwoofer?
Yes, I am aware I will no longer have a CD changer or the Dolby Surround Sound. Will that make much of a difference with vs. without Logic Pro II? I think SwissXC90 said I have 5 channels, so that means I must look for a 5 channel amp. Yes, I plan to power all of the factory speakers except the center unless there's a way to retain it after doing an install like this. BTW, what all am I removing that is MOST-related? Just the CD changer, stock radio, and stock amp, right?

Yes, I am going with the Sony XAV-AX1000. What's a DSP? Do I need one? What does it do? Which one(s) do you recommend?

I typically drive by myself or with one other person, sometimes my whole family, but that's rare.

I'm rethinking the subwoofer idea. Do you recommend I get one? What's the point of it? I already like the way the bass sounds in the stock car...
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The seven speakers represent five audio channels: front left, centre, right and rear left and right. Most aftermarket amps and head units do not do Dolby processing so you will lose the center channel.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info. So how much wattage/impedance should I look for in an amp? That's my main concern, I've ordered everything else but an amp. Should the amp be 5 x 65 W at 4 Ohms? That's what MusicarNW recommended, they recommended the Audiotec Fischer amp here: https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/amplifiers/up-7dsp

I just need to know (apart from # of channels, now I know it's 5) how much impedance, RMS power rating, features, size, etc. and other features I need to look for in an amp that would make it compatible with my install. Also, is there a way to retain the center channel speaker? Or one that has Dolby processing?
 

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Digital signal processor
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A digital signal processor (DSP) is a specialized microprocessor chip, with its architecture optimized for the operational needs of digital signal processing.[1][2] DSPs are fabricated on MOS integrated circuit chips.[3][4] They are widely used in audio signal processing, telecommunications, digital image processing, radar, sonar and speech recognition systems, and in common consumer electronic devices such as mobile phones, disk drives and high-definition television (HDTV) products.[3]
 

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Aftermarket Radio on DYNAUDIO/Dolby Logic Pro II Sound System XC90's

Thanks for the info. So how much wattage/impedance should I look for in an amp? That's my main concern, I've ordered everything else but an amp. Should the amp be 5 x 65 W at 4 Ohms? That's what MusicarNW recommended, they recommended the Audiotec Fischer amp here: https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/amplifiers/up-7dsp

I just need to know (apart from # of channels, now I know it's 5) how much impedance, RMS power rating, features, size, etc. and other features I need to look for in an amp that would make it compatible with my install. Also, is there a way to retain the center channel speaker? Or one that has Dolby processing?
Unless you are purchasing a head unit that does surround sound with a center speaker, forget using the center speaker. It would be difficult to find a Dolby Digital surround sound processing headunit that supports a front center speaker.

As for the amplifier power, when keeping the same speakers you need to use an amplifier of similar power to what the Volvo amp is. The Dolby surround system does 130W per channel, but VIDA has the full detail.
Here’s a good write up of the existing system:

https://www.media.volvocars.com/global/en-gb/media/pressreleases/5099

And Volvo states in their brochures:

Premium Sound with Dynaudio speakers (V8 only)
The Premium Sound system is in a class of its own. The digital Class D amplifier generates 5x130 watts of music. Dolby Pro Logic II surround sound recreates a sound that’s equally authentic at each seating position. There are 12 high-end speakers specially developed by the Danish specialist, Dynaudio—for the Volvo XC90 and a true concert hall experi- ence. The Premium Sound system includes:
• In-dash 6 CD changer
• AUX input
• 5x130-watt digital Class D amplifier
• Dolby Pro Logic II surround sound with center speaker and digital sound processor
• 12 Premium Sound speakers by Dynaudio • MP3 and WMA compatible CD player


They do not state if the 5x130W is peak power or RMS power (huge difference)
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Unless you are purchasing a head unit that does surround sound with a center speaker, forget using the center speaker. It would be difficult to find a Dolby Digital surround sound processing headunit that supports a front center speaker.

As for the amplifier power, when keeping the same speakers you need to use an amplifier of similar power to what the Volvo amp is. The Dolby surround system does 130W per channel, but VIDA has the full detail.
Here’s a good write up of the existing system:

https://www.media.volvocars.com/global/en-gb/media/pressreleases/5099

And Volvo states in their brochures:

Premium Sound with Dynaudio speakers (V8 only)
The Premium Sound system is in a class of its own. The digital Class D amplifier generates 5x130 watts of music. Dolby Pro Logic II surround sound recreates a sound that’s equally authentic at each seating position. There are 12 high-end speakers specially developed by the Danish specialist, Dynaudio—for the Volvo XC90 and a true concert hall experi- ence. The Premium Sound system includes:
• In-dash 6 CD changer
• AUX input
• 5x130-watt digital Class D amplifier
• Dolby Pro Logic II surround sound with center speaker and digital sound processor
• 12 Premium Sound speakers by Dynaudio • MP3 and WMA compatible CD player


They do not state if the 5x130W is peak power or RMS power (huge difference)
Thanks so much for the details. I can live without the center speaker, no problem. Is there any way to figure out is 130W is RMS or Peak? Is an amp that supports 5 x 65 W at 4 Ohms not enough? How do I know? I am asking for that specific set of numbers because the experts at MusicarNW said that is the amp that would replace the factory one. This means that the specs on the one they recommended (https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/amplifiers/up-7dsp) matches those of the factory Volvo one. Please confirm.

Out of curiosity, I do have the V8 engine, but I only counted 7 speakers in my car, not 12? Maybe I am missing some.
 

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The Audiotec-Fischer Match amp that Musicar NW suggested has a DSP built in. I told you they know what their doing. :p You will need them to “tune” the system to get the time alignment right.

The front doors have a tweeter at the side view mirror. And a 6 3/4” mid-bass driver lower in the door. There is also a little 2.5” mid behind the same grill.
The rear doors have tweeters and 5 1/4” I believe.
There’s also a couple drivers in the C pillar.

If it’s just you, you don’t need the way-back drivers or really even the rear doors. With proper time alignment you don’t need the center driver.

So that leaves the front doors and a sub. You will want ALL the power that you can afford. Remember, you’re not using all 65 watts unless you turn it way up. But, you want lots of clean power available for dynamic range.

Personally, I’d go for a better HU with some DSP capabilities like the Pioneer NEX’s https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/NEX/DMH-W4660NEX and then get the biggest ol’ hair amp you can fit. Pioneer’s GM-D 5 channel would work great. https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-DX975 You can bridge the 4 channels for 200 watts at each door and have the 5th for the sub. These are “Limited” distribution which means you can only get them through Crutchfield. Which ain’t a bad thing.

A more refined version would use AudioControl amps. Either with or without DSP built in. https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/

One other note. This really isn’t a beginner level install. I strongly recommend using Musicar. The Match amp they recommended errors on the side of “working with” the existing stuff. I always error on “it plays really freakin’ loud and I’ll find a way to get it to fit”. If you tell them your expectations, they should be able to meet them.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Thanks for the info. I'll look into those amps. I do want to retain all speakers and their full functionality, however. My goal for this project is not to upgrade the sound system or sound quality but instead is to install the head unit. So, just to be sure, I want to keep all speakers the same as they were from the factory and maintain them in full factory functionality, so not powering the speakers in the back or leaving some out is not an option for me, unfortunately.

Would this amp work for me now that I've cleared up some of the constraints? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_068TECHNO/RetroSound-Technophonic.html?tp=35808

I heavily considered going with Musicar but they weren't able to retain backup sensors OR the camera, which is just a huge letdown. Plus, they were charging $4000 for the install. Same thing with AudioControl, $1,100 for an amp is too much for me. Thanks for the info and details, though. Really appreciate it.

I'll cancel the order for the Sony XAV-AX1000. For the Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX you sent to me, it looks very nice, but in the description, it says that it supports 4 channels at 50W RMS? But I have 5 channels and need at least 65W RMS? Or does the head unit's channel and RMS ratings not matter? Let me know, and if you think it's the best option for my car, I'll buy it.

Anyways, please let me know if this amp I sent works. It's 65W RMS, whereas the Pioneer one you sent is 75W. Thanks for sending that amp, looks like you get what I was asking for in terms of "What amp do I need??!!??" :) everything's starting to make more sense now... I'll pay MusicarNW to "tune" the system after I complete everything. Again, just need this final clarification on the amp.

What do I need in terms of tools and wiring? Should I just buy what Crutchfield recommends in their "Accessories" tab when you look at the amp's product page? Anything in specific I should get? Let me know what your thoughts are.

Thanks again for all the info and help. I see my self getting very close now. There's light at the end of the tunnel!
 

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It's a train.

I'm not aware of any aftermarket HU that supports the functionality of the factory MOST system.

If all you want to do is have a different pretty face in the center stack but no changes otherwise, I'm out.

Maybe the Russian stuff is your solution.

Make sure you disconnect the battery before starting. If you disconnect the climate control module while the battery is hooked up you'll get an SRS light.

Which takes the dealership or VIDA to turn off.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
I think the factory speakers sound good as they are so that's why I didn't want to mess with it. My main goal was to update the outdated navigation (CarPlay) and the outdated camera (new one being installed). The Russian adapters are for replacing stock amplifier with stock everything else.

Are there any other HU that have DSPs that you would recommend? That was my question.

I talked with Crutchfield for about an hour today. Very helpful. Looks easier than I thought it was. I'll be getting the Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX and this amp: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GS6DSP/Sony-XM-GS6DSP.html?tp=115 and will bridge 3 speakers (I think, correct me if I'm wrong). Let me know if there's a better amp solution besides this one you sent https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZyVWK...975&skipvs=T&source=pjn&&pjClickID=3229397933 It's out of stock so that's why I'm asking.

I am aware of disconnecting the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
UPDATE: I purchased the amp and all the other necessary things. I did so after talking closely with Crutchfield's advisors and MusicarNW's Nick Akin earlier today. Here is the final parts list for anyone interested. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1XrkPaZcfI5q6nw2rCrDHxd5-WTT1aqafUdNs8j4h6C4/edit

All parts arrive this Monday. I'll begin the install then.

NOTE: The radio cage listed in the parts list was purchased after contacting [email protected] and asking for a <insert your model year> Volvo XC90 radio cage. He charged me $65 + shipping. That part is used as an install template and will allow for me to leave the entire previous radio ASSEMBLY (including radio, frame, display, etc. ) intact and do the Dremel modifications on the new one I bought. This genius idea was given to me by [email protected] Big shoutout to him.

I will keep you all updated as I do the install. I plan to do the amp, backup camera, and wiring on Monday, as they arrive. The radio cage arrives last (probably around Wed-Fri) so I will just cut it and install the display, connect the display, and all should work (hopefully) then. Thanks a lot to everyone here for their help.
 

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I've had good luck on other projects with Crutchfield and Erievovo. And Chris is a good dude. When you first posted this topic I went looking for a post of his about stereo swaps but couldn't find it.

Anyway, I look forward to seeing your progress. Good luck!

Sent from the demons in my head
 
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