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I having been trying to install an aftermarket back up camera to my Alpine headunit. I have everything run but I can't figure out the wiring to the reverse light. I have the red and black wires coming off the camera for power and ground. When I take off the taillight assembly there is two black and a blue wire going to the reverse light. Does anyone know how to wire it? I have been searching and can't find an answer.
Post your VIN and I can post back a wiring diagram. Unfortunately, tapping in involves skinning back insulation and soldering on a wire, and then sealing the tap thoroughly. For most of us, anyway. Using a wire tap like these:
View attachment 64231
is to injurious to0 the wire.
You can also download the Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD) ISO file and burn it to a double density disc and have it for yourself, from HERE
 

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Do not connect it to the reverse light circuit. Connect it to a keyed power circuit at the rear fuse box. You want the camera always on, when the car is on. You want the HU to respond to the reverse signal coming off the InCarTec CANbus module.
 

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Do not connect it to the reverse light circuit. Connect it to a keyed power circuit at the rear fuse box. You want the camera always on, when the car is on. You want the HU to respond to the reverse signal coming off the InCarTec CANbus module.
What Incartec ?
I've installed reverse cameras that had no more than the + &- power wires and the head unit switched to rear view when a video signal was sensed. Other head units require a + signal from the reverse light circuit to engage. There are certainly other designs.
 

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That is hard to read. I sent a link via PM to akcanuck so he can download the '05 diagram. For the whole car.
 

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You're posting in a thread specifically about using the InCarTec CANbus interface as a solution to the dreaded MOST.
 

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2008 Volvo XC90 V8 AWD
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Hello all,

Sorry for the delay, school caught up to me faster than I thought

Anyways, here is the link to the installation write-up: 2003-2014 Volvo XC90 Aftermarket Radio Install - Install Documentation

I tried to make it as detailed as possible, and please do read the note I included on the top. I hope everyone is able to benefit from this and I highly advise you to read through this before doing the install. New to this sort of thing? Scared? Confused? I was in your place a few weeks ago too, don't worry. It's not hard. Just follow the instructions, and with a guide like this you shouldn't run into any problems.

Again, massive shout-out to [email protected] for his selfless help and him being available for all my questions.

Anyone, please feel free to reach out to me via email at [email protected] for any further questions/comments/concerns.

--08XC90V8 out.
 

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I may have had to turn my head sideways ;) , but that looks awesome! I had initially thought I'd do a double din install, but have started looking at the 'floating' single din options the past few days. Was trying to figure out this afternoon how large I could go w/out blocking the vents. Alpine has the 11 inch screen. . . .

But looking at your HU has pretty much sold me. Thanks for sharing!
 

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Metra's dash kit is meant to have the pocket in the bottom and the single DIN HU in the upper section. It took a small amount of modification to swap places.

You want the InCarTec module because you need the CAN bus output.

I also have a PAC TR-1 installed.
 

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Hey everyone. This thread has been amazing for helping me to understand what to buy and how to connect everything. I'm assembling my InCarTec harness before getting out to the car and have just a couple of questions regarding power connections that I was hoping for some confirmation on.

In the attached image, there are three connectors. Top is the connector for my Pioneer HU. Then the gray and black connectors below are from the 20-307 Amp Bypass kit.




Question 1:
From what I understand, the gray connector from the bypass kit *could* just be plugged in under the seat near the amp but people have reported that the radio stays on too long after the car is off with this method. So my understanding is that I should cut the connector off and splice the yellow and black wires into the (proper) cigarette wires. Correct?

Question 2:
The black connector from the bypass kit is what *would* plug into the back of the HU, should my HU have some type of connection like that. Since it doesn't, I should cut that connector off and solder the yellow, red, and black to their respective wires coming from the HU connector. Correct?

Looking forward to getting in there and getting all this installed!

Thanks!
Craig
 

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It's been 7 years since I did this specific install...
It will actually help to have the car torn apart.
Things will become more apparent.

Item #6 in the instructions says you don't use the red from the amp bypass for ignition.
Ignition power comes from the steering control interface.
You will want to run an independent ground back to the battery.
So that leaves the yellow. I'm pretty sure I cut off the connectors and just spliced the yellow into the car. Watch your pinout.

Item #8 says what to do with the rest. Did you get the PDC module? I didn't so that took a bit of modification to the harness, as I remember. Yellow straight to the Pioneer harness I think?
Have you spliced the wires between the Pioneer harness and the steering module. You DO want to use Illumination, Speed Pulse, Park Brake and Ignition from the Steering module.

That's all I can remember at the moment.

Are you adding amps or using the HU's internal power?

Solder? Plus heat shrink tubing, correct?
I use Ancor Marine or The Install Bay heat shrink crimp connectors.
School of thought is the crimp is a kinder physical joint to the wire and the heat shrink provides strain relief.
Plus it's quicker and you can do it in the car and not drop molten metal on a dudes interior.
 

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Thanks for responding, Rob!

Item #6 in the instructions says you don't use the red from the amp bypass for ignition.
Ignition power comes from the steering control interface.
There is actually a separate red wire on the amp bypass harness that is what I think they are talking about. Yes, I think the power comes from the steering interface for the other systems, but I *think* that it gets power from that black connector.




You will want to run an independent ground back to the battery.
I'm good with this, but for my own knowledge: Just safer? Cleaner?

Item #8 says what to do with the rest. Did you get the PDC module? I didn't so that took a bit of modification to the harness, as I remember. Yellow straight to the Pioneer harness I think?
Have you spliced the wires between the Pioneer harness and the steering module. You DO want to use Illumination, Speed Pulse, Park Brake and Ignition from the Steering module.
Yes, I have the PDC module and think I'm good there. Also good on illumination, pulse, brake, and ignition. I also got the PAC.

Are you adding amps or using the HU's internal power?
Sticking with just the HU at the moment. Will do sub(s) and amp after I wrap this up and then tackle some suspension needs. I was a bit disappointed in the amount of space I had to tuck stealth installs into the back, but think I can combine some shallow-mount subs in some fiberglass enclosures in the rear while still maintaining all XC90 functionality. (rear seats + cargo area)

Solder? Plus heat shrink tubing, correct?
I use Ancor Marine or The Install Bay heat shrink crimp connectors.
School of thought is the crimp is a kinder physical joint to the wire and the heat shrink provides strain relief.
Plus it's quicker and you can do it in the car and not drop molten metal on a dudes interior.
Yes, solder + heat shrink tubing! :thumbup:

Thanks again Rob!
 

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Grounding all audio items to the same location is important for ground loop avoidance when adding amps.

So there’s power and there’s power. Yellow is always hot and red is switched (ignition).

When you get around to mounting the Pioneer in the dash kit, if you want to change the depth of the nose piece, I think you need to do that before mounting it in the brackets. I’m happy with where it’s at from the factory but it does stick out a good 1”. If you plan to pull the screen down to access the pocket, you actually need this space.
 

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Grounding all audio items to the same location is important for ground loop avoidance when adding amps.

So there’s power and there’s power. Yellow is always hot and red is switched (ignition).

When you get around to mounting the Pioneer in the dash kit, if you want to change the depth of the nose piece, I think you need to do that before mounting it in the brackets. I’m happy with where it’s at from the factory but it does stick out a good 1”. If you plan to pull the screen down to access the pocket, you actually need this space.
Great stuff; thank you!
 

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Hey everyone. This thread has been amazing for helping me to understand what to buy and how to connect everything. I'm assembling my InCarTec harness before getting out to the car and have just a couple of questions regarding power connections that I was hoping for some confirmation on.

In the attached image, there are three connectors. Top is the connector for my Pioneer HU. Then the gray and black connectors below are from the 20-307 Amp Bypass kit.




Question 1:
From what I understand, the gray connector from the bypass kit *could* just be plugged in under the seat near the amp but people have reported that the radio stays on too long after the car is off with this method. So my understanding is that I should cut the connector off and splice the yellow and black wires into the (proper) cigarette wires. Correct?

Question 2:
The black connector from the bypass kit is what *would* plug into the back of the HU, should my HU have some type of connection like that. Since it doesn't, I should cut that connector off and solder the yellow, red, and black to their respective wires coming from the HU connector. Correct?

Looking forward to getting in there and getting all this installed!

Thanks!
Craig
Hi Craig,

I recently did the install and documented every bit of it here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1XrkPaZcfI5q6nw2rCrDHxd5-WTT1aqafUdNs8j4h6C4/edit?usp=sharing

Regarding your question about wiring it to the cigarette lighter rather than the amp, I actually did some testing over the past few days and came to the conclusion that wiring the red (ignition turn on) wire from the head unit to the red ignition output wire on the Black box from the InCarTec kit (39-VOL-UNI) is the best option as it both turns on/off with the key going in/out, as well as eliminates the problem of random restarts that head units can have if you don't connect it like I just mentioned. This may not apply to you, but I'd recommend you go this path since it avoids any possible issues in the road ahead that'll require you to go dig back in through everything once it's done.

I just completed the install over the summer, so if you have any questions, please feel free to reach out to me via email at [email protected] and please do use the install guide I created as it's aimed to help with these questions of yours.
 

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Hi Craig,

I recently did the install and documented every bit of it here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1XrkPaZcfI5q6nw2rCrDHxd5-WTT1aqafUdNs8j4h6C4/edit?usp=sharing

Regarding your question about wiring it to the cigarette lighter rather than the amp, I actually did some testing over the past few days and came to the conclusion that wiring the red (ignition turn on) wire from the head unit to the red ignition output wire on the Black box from the InCarTec kit (39-VOL-UNI) is the best option as it both turns on/off with the key going in/out, as well as eliminates the problem of random restarts that head units can have if you don't connect it like I just mentioned. This may not apply to you, but I'd recommend you go this path since it avoids any possible issues in the road ahead that'll require you to go dig back in through everything once it's done.

I just completed the install over the summer, so if you have any questions, please feel free to reach out to me via email at [email protected] and please do use the install guide I created as it's aimed to help with these questions of yours.
Thanks! Yes, I followed along with your extremely helpful walkthrough and associated photos. You're actually who I was referring to when I talked about wiring to the cigarette lighter due to the HU staying on after the car is turned off. :)

The heatshrink tubing I had was too large and had to order more. Got that in yesterday, so looking forward to completing the harness and jumping in soon.

Thanks again!
Craig
 

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Thanks! Yes, I followed along with your extremely helpful walkthrough and associated photos. You're actually who I was referring to when I talked about wiring to the cigarette lighter due to the HU staying on after the car is turned off. :)

The heatshrink tubing I had was too large and had to order more. Got that in yesterday, so looking forward to completing the harness and jumping in soon.

Thanks again!
Craig
No problem.

About the black connector you mentioned, that connector is intended to plug directly into European-spec headunits. Since we're in the US, simply cut the connector off and solder the 3 yellow, 2 red, and 2 black wires individually together by their color (yellow-yellow-yellow, red-red, black-black) to get rid of that plastic connector piece. Otherwise, you can simply leave it untouched. And again, I wouldn't recommend using the cigarette lighter wires for the black/yellow wires, but instead would recommend using the yellow permanent 12V wire coming out of the black box 39-VOL-UNI in the InCarTec kit as the yellow wires are intended to be used as "Constant 12V Permanent power" for memory retention purposes.

Original credit goes to [email protected] for taking a shot at it first and helping us all. Excited to see how it turns out, remember to post pics!

:)
 

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Just revisiting this thread here... was anyone able to retain their factory navigation somehow? I remember seeing a post saying someone was able to do it, but I just can't find it. Already did the install and am very satisfied. Just curious to see if there's a way to retain factory nav.
 

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Liked the new Pioneer so much I put one in the kids e92.
Also swapped out the Axxess adapter for InCarTec's version. SOOO much better.
Discovered the WiFi connection in the BMW was much better than the one in the Moose.
Difference was I installed the GPS antenna on the dash of the e92 and the iPhone's WiFi connection had the Low Data flipped on.

So I remounted the GPS antenna on the Moose and switched on Low Data on it's connection. It seems to be working better.
 

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