SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
656 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I brought my car into the my local dealer this morning, to fix a torn CV boot under warranty and to hopefully fix the muffled knock that I was sure was the LCA bushings. Well according to the dealer, the rubbed metal on the inner part of the LCA bushings is not the source of the noise, however they indicated that my front strut mounts, stops and possibly bearings are the problem (also they mentioned a strut seal being part of the problem, but when I questioned them they indicated the strut did not need to be replace), all of which there is a service bulletin for (or several).

So they have to order parts and may need to even replace a spring, as it was contacting metal and may be comprised. I asked them if they could throw on the pair of 2011 C30 R-D springs I just recently acquired, instead of the stock comfort springs, when doing this proposed work, and they said they could, however they indicated that if they did, they could not warrant the work associated with the springs, and in-turn any issues/noises going forward with the area would be out of warranty. They referenced that the car would be slightly lower, and I am altering the geo, and I understand that, funny because they don't seem to realize I dropped the rear 30mm with eibachs.

I have 23K mile remaining out of the 100K, and 11 months left out of the 7 years, on my CPO warranty. So the I am trying to figure whether or not to have to have the dealer do the spring swap for me, for zero cost, but apparently void warranty for the assembly, ...or have them put back/in the stock springs, and some time later pay my local indie $320-360 for the spring swap (because it's a little beyond my skillset) and likely (maybe) my dealer would never realize it.

I am leaning toward having them put the C30 R-D springs on, but don't want to have struts go on there own in the short future (they sound squishy now not sure if the proposed seal work will improve this problem) while still in warranty, and then have the dealer blame the 10mm spring drop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,096 Posts
Is this mounts, etc for both sides or just one side? I assume both sides since you mentioned the RD springs. It's too bad they aren't going to replace the struts. That's a lot of work to pull the struts/springs just to replace the associated hardware when the struts themselves are nearing the end of their life expectancy. If they would change the struts if you provided them I'd pick up a set from Rock Auto and bring them along with your RD springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
656 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is this mounts, etc for both sides or just one side? I assume both sides since you mentioned the RD springs. It's too bad they aren't going to replace the struts. That's a lot of work to pull the struts/springs just to replace the associated hardware when the struts themselves are nearing the end of their life expectancy. If they would change the struts if you provided them I'd pick up a set from Rock Auto and bring them along with your RD springs.
It it for both sides. What you mentioned is pretty much my concern; struts possibly coming to the end of their road soon. Is there a typical lifespan for them to go? I like your idea of preemptively getting replacement struts, would this be the correct replacement for oem? https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2215744&cc=1443500&jnid=425&jpid=0
Should I consider upgrading/other strut option instead? Or probably not as I would need to do all four corners at once with any change in dampening...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,096 Posts
Personally I've been using OEM Sachs on my cars in the recent past ... my "lowering/stance/drop" days are far behind me (ie. Bilstein, HR, etc. etc.). I have tried Monroe before once, didn't like them. It's hard to say which strut is best for your car without knowing your suspension codes from the label inside the right passenger door, although I'd guess it's probably Comfort. The other thing is your desire to run the RD springs up front and already having Eibach's in the back. For that type of setup I'd be more inclined to get a Sachs strut made for the Dynamic suspension, but looking at Rock Auto just now I see they list the same Sachs strut in 2009 for all three suspensions ... Comfort, Dynamic, and Sport, for struts marked 11 and 32, so I guess it doesn't matter (?). And I wouldn't worry too much about having to do the rear shocks yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
656 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Personally I've been using OEM Sachs on my cars in the recent past ... my "lowering/stance/drop" days are far behind me (ie. Bilstein, HR, etc. etc.). I have tried Monroe before once, didn't like them. It's hard to say which strut is best for your car without knowing your suspension codes from the label inside the right passenger door, although I'd guess it's probably Comfort. The other thing is your desire to run the RD springs up front and already having Eibach's in the back. For that type of setup I'd be more inclined to get a Sachs strut made for the Dynamic suspension, but looking at Rock Auto just now I see they list the same Sachs strut in 2009 for all three suspensions ... Comfort, Dynamic, and Sport, for struts marked 11 and 32, so I guess it doesn't matter (?). And I wouldn't worry too much about having to do the rear shocks yet.
You are correct, my stock susp. is comfort, but like you noted I recently put in some eibachs in the rear, to slightly stiffen it up and drop it down, always with the intent to also slightly stiffen the front, but to drop it minimally as possible, thus still keeping the rake reduced. So Monroe's are a no-go? Doing some quick searches on here, I've read some have swapped in KYB GR2 struts and have note a little firmer ride over OEM, maybe this is an option for me. Seems like this also would be alright regarding the front-rear difference in damping, if the rear shocks stay OEM, and I only replace the front struts at this time. Anybody have any experience with KYBs recently? I'll look into sachs also, thanks. I am not looking for a much firmer or hasher ride though, not sure if sachs will provide that. A little firmer than OEM would be great or even OEM would be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,272 Posts
I replaced the V50 front springs/struts with used assemblies pulled from a C30. They only had like 14k miles and I got them for $150 shipped. Worth considering if you could find a set. I don't think the height was changed at all (at least not noticeable).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
656 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I replaced the V50 front springs/struts with used assemblies pulled from a C30. They only had like 14k miles and I got them for $150 shipped. Worth considering if you could find a set. I don't think the height was changed at all (at least not noticeable).
It's a possibility, but I am thinking that if I am debating whether to replace mine with new, for longevity purposes considering the warranty work that is being offered, I would want to go new for max-life, because even if there are used options out there with low miles, I would never know what sort of hits they have taken.

In doing some more searching, I also came across the Bilstein B4 option, seems like they might be similar to the sachs struts, but not positive. Both are right at $100 a piece, which is ok, and Tasca has OEM for $120. Understanding all this is inexpensive when compared to the performance Koni and Bilstein options, yet any cost at this point will be above my original anticipation for this issue which was $0.00.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,096 Posts
I'm not really up on Bilstein's offerings as of late, so not sure what a B4 is ... although I think that's what they used to call their Touring strut. Back 10+ years ago I threw on a full set of Bilstein HD's with H&R springs on my 850 and the car looked killer, but I could feel an ant in the road if I ran over it and swore I'd never do that again (although I also ran a Weitec kit, then Eibach Pro's on my V70 because I'm hardheaded, until I finally went back to stock) . Nowadays I don't care about that stuff anymore so I just stick with OEM, which afaik is Sachs on the S40/V50, even though the times I've looked at the struts on our S40 there's not a sticker or anything on them. Doubt they're FoMoCo though since car manufacturers typically don't make those type of parts. I'm like 99.99% they're Sachs, could be Boge I suppose. Anyway, for me, Sachs are reliable, predictable, and not that much more expensive that the cheaper offerings like Monroe, even KYB.

$0.00 cost? I hear ya. Look at it this way though ... installing struts/springs are a pain, even though I've done them many, many times, on other non-Volvo's too. So when you're car is out of warranty you're going to have that labor cost to contend with too because the struts really aren't going to last far beyond 100K miles. I've seen many posts here over the years where people pull their close-to 100K struts off just to install spring seats or strut mounts, and that's just silly. Sorry for the rambling ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
963 Posts
FWIW my front struts started leaking around 85k miles. I kept my comfort springs and swapped struts/shocks with koni FSDs. More pricey but they have OEM performance w/ regular driving and get pretty aggressive/stiff dynamics with sharp cornering. If they were on the C30 sport springs I'm sure it would be even better.

I'd avoid monroe, but people have had good success with KYB.

I wouldn't say the install is that much of a "pain" if you're using air tools. If you do plan on doing it yourself might as well replace the bearing and spring seats too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
656 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm not really up on Bilstein's offerings as of late, so not sure what a B4 is ... although I think that's what they used to call their Touring strut. Back 10+ years ago I threw on a full set of Bilstein HD's with H&R springs on my 850 and the car looked killer, but I could feel an ant in the road if I ran over it and swore I'd never do that again (although I also ran a Weitec kit, then Eibach Pro's on my V70 because I'm hardheaded, until I finally went back to stock) . Nowadays I don't care about that stuff anymore so I just stick with OEM, which afaik is Sachs on the S40/V50, even though the times I've looked at the struts on our S40 there's not a sticker or anything on them. Doubt they're FoMoCo though since car manufacturers typically don't make those type of parts. I'm like 99.99% they're Sachs, could be Boge I suppose. Anyway, for me, Sachs are reliable, predictable, and not that much more expensive that the cheaper offerings like Monroe, even KYB.

$0.00 cost? I hear ya. Look at it this way though ... installing struts/springs are a pain, even though I've done them many, many times, on other non-Volvo's too. So when you're car is out of warranty you're going to have that labor cost to contend with too because the struts really aren't going to last far beyond 100K miles. I've seen many posts here over the years where people pull their close-to 100K struts off just to install spring seats or strut mounts, and that's just silly. Sorry for the rambling ...
You are correct, the B4 is Bilstein's touring-class shock, and I can't find much more detailed info or reviews on them, aside from a bunch of BMW forums where they say they are little bit stiffer than stock, but not the most relevant info for our cars...

Yeah, it seems like replacing the struts, even though the stock ones are OK at the moment, is the wise move considering everything else is getting replaced under warranty, so labor is essentially free and I just have to pony up the cash for new dampers.

FWIW my front struts started leaking around 85k miles. I kept my comfort springs and swapped struts/shocks with koni FSDs. More pricey but they have OEM performance w/ regular driving and get pretty aggressive/stiff dynamics with sharp cornering. If they were on the C30 sport springs I'm sure it would be even better.

I'd avoid monroe, but people have had good success with KYB.

I wouldn't say the install is that much of a "pain" if you're using air tools. If you do plan on doing it yourself might as well replace the bearing and spring seats too!
FSDs just aren't in the budget at this time, so I am relegated to the Sachs, OEM, Bilstein B4, or KYB range. The idea is to install the fronts for longevity, with any slight performance increase being a bonus (clearly), and with only 10mm drop from the C30 RD springs, I think that should be achievable with the strut range I'm looking at. Even my stock struts seem to be OK at the moment, replacement would certainly be the wise move considering everything else is getting replaced under warranty, so labor is essentially free and I just have to pony up the cash for new dampers. I just need to determine what direction to go, and I'm leaning toward the Bilstein B4 or the Sachs as they seem to be a notch up in quality from KYB.

That said, if I do the fronts, when the rear shocks go, I will need to pair them with what ever I go with up front, but the rears are dropped 30mm w/ Eibachs, so that's another twist.

Maybe I'll just leave the stock struts in up front, have the dealer put in the C30 springs, and take my chances on their remaining life. All new stops, bearings and mounts can't hurt. ...I'm all over the place. :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,096 Posts
Maybe I'll just leave the stock struts in up front, have the dealer put in the C30 springs, and take my chances on their remaining life. All new stops, bearings and mounts can't hurt. ...I'm all over the place. :confused:
That's funny :) You should try renovating a 45 year old home if you really want to be all over the place.

I hear you on funds (aftermentioned reno, and kids in school). I could also see doing nothing for now. It would take either myself or my wife at least two years to put 25K miles on our respective cars. Unfortunately on her car (the S40) there is a creaking noise coming from the driver's front side when turning the wheel, and I'm quite sure it's the spring seat/bearing (whatever they're called on the P1).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
989 Posts
The crappy thing is when those front struts do blow...the labor to do them will be almost more than buying the struts themselves. My advice is if the dealer is gonna be taking them apart anyways (free labor)--try to get new struts and all new mounts/bearings thrown in there while the labor is free, unless you can do the work yourself in the future. I understand the money thing, but pay now or pay more later for the struts and now the labor. The first time you hear another obnoxious knock or thud or other noise and she's not riding right, you'll be kicking yourself for not doing it. :)
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top