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Ok....my plans...<p>Electronic digital boost gauge...<p><IMG SRC="http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/cyb-a213e351y_w.jpg" BORDER="0"><IMG SRC="http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/cyb-a213e161y_w.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Plus gauge pod...<p><IMG SRC="http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p3xxABGXLtbk5-uPjG_2Er0l0Wh1UuDkgLSDZ2iYKXWo0GUsGQZdxSCkAoKx_MkpMBSqqJdIcvhQ" BORDER="0"><p>Plus two of these gadgets...<br><IMG SRC="http://www.partsexpress.com/imageslarge/071-580L.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>2 tappers...one for the seat (switched), one for the headlight (dimmer) (no constant power needed)<p>I will need to extend all of the wires through the door and into the fuse panel area. If i were to run the sender wire through the door, the power and dimmer are seperate from this wire, I would still have to route the power and dimmer back through the door to the fuse panel. The sender wire is quite thick, not sure of the ease to fit both the sender wire and the two seperate wires....please chime in HERE lol.<p>Run the hose through the firewall by the hood release, remove the under panel in the footwell (the panel with the footwell light). mount sender in the same area, and solder the wires at that point.<p>I have read that the pod fits very nicely when the door sail (the cover by the side mirror) is completely removed, so no dremelling there...<p><br><i>Modified by mpdbrown at 5:02 PM 9-10-2008</i><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by mpdbrown at 5:12 PM 9-10-2008</i>
 

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Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (mpdbrown)

I'm interested in hearing more details w/install pics...
 

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Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (Short Circuit)

I will attempt it, as others have...<A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=97979" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=97979</A><br>Only if on monday the shop (Raw Bear Performance) gives me a rediculous install price. <p>The Kit.<br><IMG SRC="http://www.thesaabsite.com/95/20040417a0.The_kit.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Instructions<p>1. Connect red wire from gauge to a switched 12v source (12v switched power source means that there are 12v to the red wire when the ignition switch is on and no voltage when the ignition switch is off)<p>2. Connect black wire from gauge to a good engine block ground and to shielded (bare) wire on sending unit provided.<p>3. Connect purple wire from gauge to the night time dimming circuit. (The purple wire must be connected to the headlight switch circuit so that there are 12v to the purple wire when the headlight switch is on and no voltage when the headlight switch is off) <p>4. Connect white wire from gauge to white (clear) wire from the sending unit provided <p>5. Connect yellow wire on gauge to black wire on sending unit provided.<p>NOTE: Sender is connected into boost or vacuum line using T fitting and tubing supplied. Sender can be mounted in convenient location using a tie wrap passed through the opening in the body of the sender.<p>NOTE: Gauges with optional memory feature will have a blue wire. Connect blue wire to blue wire from memory switch packaged with gauge. Connect black wire from memory switch to ground.<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by mpdbrown at 5:30 PM 9-10-2008</i>
 

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Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (mpdbrown)

You will also need a dremmel or something similar to get the driver side pod from Carbon Fiber Works to fit correctly. The passenger side one replaces the plastic stock piece but he drivers side glues to it. <p>I had to grind the stock piece to get a good fit, plus you need to cut a hole to pass the wire that goes to the back of the gauge through. Be careful not to break the 3 pins that snap onto the door<p>You will need probably 3 of the add a circuit things. I hooked mine up to the seat fuse for the constant power, and to the fuse for the lighter for the switched power (I think there was a third power wire but don't recall where I put it) You will not need a power switch<p>I presume that the digital gauges you show are electric, meaning the sender unit installs in the engine bay and a wire runs through the firewall then through the door to the gauge right? Running a vacuum tube there would be near impossible without pinching it.<p>Removing the door panel is not hard, there are two torx screws that are accessable once you remove the plastic cover on the door handle (bone tool highly recomended) and you just push the center in on the little clips that surround the bottom edge of the door panel (I used a golf tee) you can remove them and the door panel comes loose, The electrical connections come off if you depress the clip that secures them, this can be a little tricky, and the door latch rod is pretty easy to figure out as well. <p>Running the wire is a PIA, I cut mine and taped it to a straighteded coat hanger to pass it through the firewall and then soldered it back together as the connector would have been very hard to get through the firewall gromment, the part by the door was a little easier but not what Iwould call a piece of cake. <p>I ran the wire through the grommet where the the hood latch cable goes and through the door frame where the rest of the door wiring goes, it was not an easy task, but it looks great finished<p>
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (jstro)

I just took a peek into the fuse panel area.<p>2 tappers...one for the seat (switched), one for the headlight (dimmer) (no constant power needed)<p>I will need to extend all of the wires through the door and into the fuse panel area. If i were to run the sender wire through the door, the power and dimmer are seperate from this wire, I would still have to route the power and dimmer back through the door to the fuse panel. The sender wire is quite thick, not sure of the ease to fit both the sender wire and the two seperate wires....please chime in HERE lol.<p>Run the hose through the firewall by the hood release, remove the under panel in the footwell (the panel with the footwell light). mount sender in the same area, and solder the wires at that point.<p>I have read that the pod fits very nicely when the door sail (the cover by the side mirror) is completely removed, so no dremelling there...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (jstro)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>jstro</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>I presume that the digital gauges you show are electric, meaning the sender unit installs in the engine bay and a wire runs through the firewall then through the door to the gauge right? Running a vacuum tube there would be near impossible without pinching it.<p>Running the wire is a PIA, I cut mine and taped it to a straighteded coat hanger to pass it through the firewall and then soldered it back together as the connector would have been very hard to get through the firewall gromment, the part by the door was a little easier but not what Iwould call a piece of cake. <p>I ran the wire through the grommet where the the hood latch cable goes and through the door frame where the rest of the door wiring goes, it was not an easy task, but it looks great finished<p></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Thanks alot for the info. These are the questions I havent figured out yet being that I havent ripped anything apart yet. <p>My biggest questions regard the routing of the sender wire through the firewall and the routing of the extended wires through the door.<p>If I mount the sender in the engine bay, I run the risk of it getting over heated and crapping out. however, then I will only need to extend the 5 wires from the gauge through the door and hook to the end of the sender wire and fuse panel.
 

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Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (mpdbrown)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mpdbrown</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Thanks alot for the info. These are the questions I havent figured out yet being that I havent ripped anything apart yet. <p>My biggest questions regard the routing of the sender wire through the firewall and the routing of the extended wires through the door.<p>If I mount the sender in the engine bay, I run the risk of it getting over heated and crapping out. however, then I will only need to extend the 5 wires from the gauge through the door and hook to the end of the sender wire and fuse panel.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Here's my way 'around' the firewall <A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=76922" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=76922</A><p>What digital gauge is that and if you don't mind can you share what the cost was?<p>LTA<br>
 

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Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (LTA)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>LTA</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Here's my way 'around' the firewall <A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=76922" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=76922</A><p></TD></TR></TABLE><p>That's what was recommend as well for my gauge install.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (LTA)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>LTA</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's my way 'around' the firewall <A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=76922" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=76922</A><p>What digital gauge is that and if you don't mind can you share what the cost was?<p>LTA</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Well you shared your info, and were all friends here lol. <p>Cyberdyne Digital boost gauge. Prices vary with color and whether or not they include the module that records max boost and min vacuum. The one I am interested in, the Emerald Green without the max and min module is 86.00 at Summit Racing. It blinks when in boost and is steady in vacuum, which is really a good idea IMO because you dont have to look at the gauge to know youre in boost.<p>Thanks guys, keep the thoughts coming.<p>I guess I can do a dry run with running the wires through the door prior to ordering the sail pod. best bet. Otherwise, Id most likely find a new location near the R gauge panel with a simple setup. Bottom line is I love these gauges, and dont want to spend 400 on the blitz unit.
 

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Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (mpdbrown)

I need to route the wires for my digital autometer gauge but the hole shown by the fuses is too small for the plug to fit through. How do you guys go around that, can I cut and solder the wires back? .<p><br>EDIT: n/m read the thread, soldering will do I guess<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by xman03 at 9:57 AM 9-11-2008</i>
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (xman03)

I still need an answer to whether or not I will be able to route the 5 18-20 gauge wires through the door...or else do a dry run. Any help with this?
 

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Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (mpdbrown)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mpdbrown</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I still need an answer to whether or not I will be able to route the 5 18-20 gauge wires through the door...or else do a dry run. Any help with this?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>The red wire in my picture is 16awg (IRRC, or could be 14). You can probably get your 5 wires through the hole but getting them under that plastic bracket will be tricky.<p>Ps. What are all those 5 wires for (ie why so many?). I don't know much about that gauge but don't you just need a signal from the pressure sender?<p>
 

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what does it mean "Display flashes when in boost mode and is steady when not in boost mode." <p>what is "boost mode" it is a boost gauge isnt it always in "boost mode"? does that mean whenever you are making boost (engine is on pretty much) it is flashing? that would be annoying
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Re: (ClemsonS60R)

When youve reached boost, the reading blinks. in vacuum, the display is constant.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (LTA)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>LTA</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Ps. What are all those 5 wires for (ie why so many?). I don't know much about that gauge but don't you just need a signal from the pressure sender?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Only the switched power and the dimmer will need to routed to the fuse panel, the rest can go elsewhere, IE not under that braket. I can attach the sender wires to the extended gauge wires elsewhere.
 

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ok still confused what do you mean when youve "reached boost" doesnt the turbo always have boost pressure and then tops out at 14.5psi (1bar) stock? so when would it flash?
 

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Re: (ClemsonS60R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>ClemsonS60R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok still confused what do you mean when youve "reached boost" doesnt the turbo always have boost pressure and then tops out at 14.5psi (1bar) stock? so when would it flash?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>boost gauge measures pressure in the intake manifold and not "in the turbo" so to speak. Remember, the throttle plate is not wide open at all times. Therefore within the intake manifold there is a vacuum until the throttle plate opens up enough (due to pressing the accelerator pedal) to let pressurized air into the manifold which causes increased pressure in the manifold (which is measured by the boost gauge). When you let off the pedal, the plate closes which then causes a vacuum in the manifold.<p>
 

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k....so when is the gauge flashing and for how long how often....im just confused as to how that is beneficial i forsee it as annoying so trying to understand their reasoning/concept behind it?
 

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Re: (ClemsonS60R)

From what i have been told and from my own probings, you can't hook up to the dimmer switch as the voltages are reversed and your gauge will dim when the dash is bright. I was able to pull the 5-7 wires through the door but it was very tricky. I drilled a small hole in the door socket and put a small grommet in the hole. I then cut the gauge wires and sprayed them with WD 40 and then pulled them through. Take your time with it. I also installed the gauge "brain" onto the bottom mounting bracket of the driver side fuse panel. I had to pull out the headlight/dimmer switch pod so i could wiggle my girlie little fingures in there to zip tie it in place. Good luck!<br>PS. I'd love to give you a hand as i live basicly down the street, but my work schedule is crazy for the next week or so.
 

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Re: Digital boost gauge installation. (LTA)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>LTA</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Here's my way 'around' the firewall <A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=76922" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=76922</A><p>What digital gauge is that and if you don't mind can you share what the cost was?<p>LTA<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>I would try this method, it look far easier that using the gromment where the hood latch cable goes
 
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