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What type of oil is used from the factory. I read a post from last year that says there has been a bit of controversy. I assume its Regular 10W-30. I don't want to put synthetic in right now, and I am due for my first oil change since I'm sitting around 1,600 miles now.<p>Thanks
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (phuz)

I thought it was a semi synthetic but I don't recall the weight.
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (MagoonR)

Well its time to clarify one thing...If there is any type of synthetic oil in the motor already, is there a problem stepping back to regular 10W-30? <p>When I had my saab with the stock motor, I had run full synthetic, and then after awhile I had switched back to regular and after a couple hundred miles, I seized my crank, and I was told it was because I put regular oil in an engine that has run synthetic and this caused the oil to gum up and I lost oil pressure.<p>I want to take every precaution against harm for my baby R <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (phuz)

That's BS IMO.<p>Personally, I had the first change at 2500 and used semi-synth 10/30. At 5000, I went to Mobil 1 10/30 and again at 7500. Now I split the intervals at 3750.
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (MagoonR)

Great! I will probably end up doing it this coming weekend...<p>I still haven't decided on Castrol GTX or Mobil 1.<p>Thanks man!
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (phuz)

I run Mobil 1 fully synthetic. I have heard Castrol on many occasions had improved mpg by as much as 2-3 mpg/
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (MagoonR)

i have just returned from sweden and a factory delivery. my friends work at the torslanda plant and joined in the delivery. i asked the two delivery guys directly about the first oil change.<p>the answer was that the engine had been test run and had the oil changed after the test. the test is for leaks etc. it was said directly to me that the oil is the european semi synthetic of castrol slx, or german castrol.<p>the closest thing we have the synthetic blend castrol and i was told that the oil for the us is a 10-30.<p>i was told to leave it in for at least a thousand miles. i told him that i break out in a rash if my car even gets close to 3000miles on an oil change. i usually do it at about 2500.<p>on a new engine i would do it after about 10 minutes first start, then 100 miles then 1000 miles, then on to the regular of 2500 (brief trips) or the 3000-3500 when long trips are made. the guys laughed and said i probably was doing nothing to the car but helping and i only hurt the pocket.<p>the delivery guys were very knowing about the car and my friends are 30 plus year employees and verified all the info.<p>they are really not sure of what we have here for oil but assured that the castrol stuff was semi syn.<p>i went with my friends to the employee only store where is could get a spare wheel, slight blems for 67$!!!!!!!!!!<p>they had racks of gallons of castrol slx in 0-30, and 10-30 with some quarts of 5-30. i did not notice any semi syn i was too excited reading the lables of the slx, by having it translated by my swede friends. <p>the store had every spare part that volvo ever made it seemes. some things were in boxes in poor shape but perfect parts etc. the prices were about 30% of retail i was told. i think i saved a couple hundred dollars there. we even had lunch for about a buck each by the employee pool the day we returned the car.<p>i think i want to run tours with my friends for us osd folks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the replies! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (hastee)

Correct. The factory fill is a very light viscosity European Castrol blend, and the synthetic component is NOT an FTC "synthetic" Group III base. I'm guessing the factory fill a 0W-30, not a 10W-30. But it is NOT German Castrol either, which is a wonderful full synthetic (PAO/Ester base blend) oil. <p>Most of the break in on these engines is complete by delivery. But now on my second new R, I think it is probably good practice to run an A3 rated synthetic blend for the first 4 to 5 thousand miles, with a couple of changes along the way. Unless the oil is a special break in formula, I'll still change out the original juice at 500. I recently did this in the new R, and there was indeed a little ultra-fine metallic glitter in the bottom of the filter housing. <p>After that, any of the top full synthetics are fine. Redline, German Castrol (Syntec 0W-30 around here) and Delvac 1 are all excellent oils. I am beginning to sour on the regular (post Tri-Syn) M1 formula many here are using, as it often presents higher than average iron counts in used oil analyses, and has a lower than desired HTHS rating (sub A3).
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (sgmlaw)

smglaw:<p>I have heard that the factory oil IS a special break-in formula, therefore a good idea to keep it in for the first few thousand miles.<p>Also, I heard that redline is NOT recommended in our Rs.
 

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I just changed my oil this weekend...when I read the manual I am pretty sure I recall it saying the car runs on 5W-30.<p>Additionally, it recommends that you not use synthetics. <p>What gives? most of the advice on the board is recommending synthetics and 10W-30...
 

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Re: (esquiR)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>esquiR</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just changed my oil this weekend...when I read the manual I am pretty sure I recall it saying the car runs on 5W-30.<p>Additionally, it recommends that you not use synthetics. <p>What gives? most of the advice on the board is recommending synthetics and 10W-30...</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Read it again. The manual states that 5/30 has a range of -20F to 86F while 10/30 has a range of -4F to 100F (approximations but close I think). Therefore, 10/30 is acceptable and especially so in a synthetic which has better pour/flow characteristics in the lower temps. It also states that synthetic can be used in severe driving but it is not included in a standard oil change.<p>In a turbo, full synth will provide better protection due to its resistance to coke or breakdown under heat stress.
 

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Re: (esquiR)

That's weird. My oil cap says "Castrol preferred" and I think it notes sythetic as well. Not sure though.
 

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Re: (Mash)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Mash</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's weird. My oil cap says "Castrol preferred" and I think it notes sythetic as well. Not sure though.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Castrol is "in bed" with Volvo much like Pirelli. That's why it is "preferred". Any oil that meets or exceeds the recommended rating is acceptable.
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (sgmlaw)

i agree that the oil is not the german castrol 0-30 that i use in winter, the delivery center guys said it was a similar semi synthetic and was 10-30 in my car. a 2006 v70, not an R, but it has the same manual. the above advice corresponds with what i have before me, two keys and the manual with the legal title. no car though! it is about to go through the panama canal in the next couple days.<p>own 100% of a car and don't have it for almost 3 months, i gotta be a sucker <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>on topic, i plan to keep the oil in the car for 1500miles then go with the castrol synthetic blend in 10-30, then go on to the 2500 mile changes up to the free 7,500 service where i will probably switch to the "full synthetic" castrol ( i know there is some problem with the claims of full).<p>i have the 0-30 german castrol in my '03 v40 with a slight improvement in gas mileage i think. but spring is here in the sf bay area and it is time to go back to the 10-30.<p><br>ps; davis west coast volvo meet was ok, met a lot of good folks
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (phuz)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>phuz</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">smglaw:<p>I have heard that the factory oil IS a special break-in formula, therefore a good idea to keep it in for the first few thousand miles.<p>Also, I heard that redline is NOT recommended in our Rs.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>That I have not heard ANYWHERE. <br> <br>Who told you EITHER of those things?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
off topic...<br>what vessel is yours on? <p>mine was on taiko
 

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Re: (esquiR)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>esquiR</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just changed my oil this weekend...when I read the manual I am pretty sure I recall it saying the car runs on 5W-30.<p>Additionally, it recommends that you not use synthetics. <p>What gives? most of the advice on the board is recommending synthetics and 10W-30...</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Where did the manual advise against synthetics? <p>Especially in a turbo, you would be foolish to NOT run a full synthetic after break-in.<p>A 0, 5 or 10W-30 is fine. Perhaps a thicker 30 or 40 weight if you run mods. In Vadis, a 0W-30 is specified for this engine (and I'm guessing which one that is <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> ). <p>But I'd be looking for an A3 rating if you want maximum protection in whatever oil you choose. BTW, neither M1 5 or 10W-30 meet that bar.
 

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Re: digging up old stuff....factory oil?! (phuz)

Wait a sec… I was talking to the local service people when I took my R in for an oil change they said they used a type of crude oil…? Is he telling the truth?
 
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