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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Setting up the timing belt after a rebuild I set the cams back in with locking tool and removed it. The exhaust cam is vvt. The belt was placed back in with white out marks referenced from pre tear down so all looked good. The crank mark was invisible so I pulled the plug on cyl. 1 to check it was up fully. So hand cranked it and the tensioner did move out of 'cold' setting. I reset tension and tightened it. And tried to start it up. Just cranked but no ignition. No nasty noises. Figured timing was off a tooth. Reset it making sure vvt was in resting position. Upon second try turn of ignition heard a awful noise. At this point I walked away in fear


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I'm not entirely sure what you did from your post. What do you mean when you say the VVT was in its resting position? Did you take the VVT hub off the cam during the rebuild?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
No I didn't mess with it. I did a line of white out from timing marks on both cams to the belt. So when I reinstalled the belt I made sure that the belt was on the same exact teeth as prior to removal. I went back out this morning and continued this time I tighten the belt up and grit my teeth and turn the ignition I didn't hear any brutalnoises but it's still just turning over and not catching. In regards to the VVT you know how you can twist it 10° clockwise by hand I just made sure it was not advanced in that direction when slipping the belt on


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was told by an indie shop mechanic that to put the belt on correctly I should put the camlock in place while installing the belt I didn't think that was necessary


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm wondering if the tensioner is broken because I just tried to turn it over by hand and I noticed that little arm that you calibrate between cold and hot setting was advanced towards hot and when I turned it it automatically move back towards the left with no problem


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It's not necessary. The crank timing marks are hard to see but if you google image search you should be able to find one that shows you what to look for. Start again by confirming that the crank and two cam marks are where they are supposed to be. If they aren't, then you're possibly boned.

Next question is, can you turn the engine over by hand with a wrench on the crank bolt?

I see you're trying that. Not sure about the tensioner question, I do know it moves a lot during normal operation, that's what allows the timing belt to last longer. Make sure you're turning the motor clockwise to keep the tension on the correct part of the belt.
 

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No I didn't mess with it. I did a line of white out from timing marks on both cams to the belt. So when I reinstalled the belt I made sure that the belt was on the same exact teeth as prior to removal. I went back out this morning and continued this time I tighten the belt up and grit my teeth and turn the ignition I didn't hear any brutalnoises but it's still just turning over and not catching. In regards to the VVT you know how you can twist it 10° clockwise by hand I just made sure it was not advanced in that direction when slipping the belt on


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You need to have the hub turned all the way clockwise while you're installing the timing belt, unless you turned the engine a few teeth past the marks and then turned it backwards so that the marks lined up before you took the belt off. That's why your mechanic said you should leave the cams locked-the tool lets you turn the hub to its limit without disturbing the cam.

If you aren't sure of the timing now I'd line up the cams, reinstall the cam locking tool, make sure the crank is at TDC, and try again. You need a really good light to see the crank timing marks, but if you still can't see them with one there's another mark you can use if you take off the crank pulley/vibration damper. It's the ridge marked in this photo; it should line up with the casting on the oil pump that's also marked.



Once you've got everything aligned, leave the cam locking tool in place. Turn the VVT hub to its clockwise limit, hold it there, and install the timing belt. Set the tensioner, put everything back together, and see what happens when you try to start the car.

I think your tensioner is OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ordered a new tensioner the arm wasn't moving at all to calibrate the cold setting I don't know how I broke it,it seems really simple. So to advance the vvt clockwise I should come over that hub first during install to the intake cam so I can max it out to the right, then? As far as bending a valve goes I'm wondering if all the cranking I did today with no vicious noise, am I good? When hand turning it I heard a small click in the cam carrier area at certain point during rotation. Is that a bad noise?


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Start at the crank and go counterclockwise around the idler, the intake cam, the exhaust cam, the water pump, and finally the tensioner. You can turn the VVT pulley and hold it by hand or with a T55 socket. Once the belt is wrapped around it it won't move.

If the engine didn't sound any different while cranking after the noise you described in your first post it's probably OK but until you try to start it while it's properly timed nothing is certain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finally got it sorted out however it is a little Ticky up top while running. How to shut it off though becaus exhaust is coming out by the exhaust manifolds apparently I didn't tighten down enough some of those bolts. Hmm


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Sorry to hear it man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I put everything back together and now the car won't start I just cranks and cranks with no chugs from fuel and then sometimes you get some fuel combustion but it will not catch can somebody help me diagnose this issue on the first attempt there was a backfire. Then just cranks. I rechecked the timing belt all was correct as in vvt advanced to the right


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Did you happen to put the rotor back in the distributor, or if you removed the cam gears from the cams for any reason during your rebuild, are you sure you didn't put them back on 180 degrees out? Just putting out some speculations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nope. Coil packs are all good, cams were removed and replaced with locking tool and belt was installed with tool still on


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I didn't drain the coolant which left some in the cylinders when I removed head, coolant had drained away when I went to install head a couple days later. I shrugged that off and hoped for the best is that a problem? The dipstick has only oil on it so I figured no problem


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....are you serious? you can't be serious.
 
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