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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a nice Porter Cable 7424 orbital buffer and was looking for some pointers since i've never used one. I read that it should be used for removing swirls and scratches and such, but the final wax should be applied by hand. Any recommended product to use with it? Gotta make her shine for this weeks meet!
 

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Re: Detailing questions (Ride R)

Dan:<p>Your best bet is go to see Larry at Car Care Specialties:<p><A HREF="http://www.carcareonline.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.carcareonline.com</A>/<p>He's got a small shop in Lodi that should be very easy for you to get to in Paramus. <p>He's got REAL stuff, not the kind that you find in Pep Boys. Products that pro auto body places use. <p>Call him and find out what you need, what he recommends. He is a super nice guy and I have bought from him for years (although over the web, so I'm sure he doesn't remember me coming in when I lived in Rockland). <p>I cannot emphasize enough this guy knows his stuff and will not steer you wrong. <p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Detailing questions (Needsdecaf)

Not for nothing (it's too late for you though), my car is still beading water from Zaino treatments last fall. Have only washed her a handful of times and she is not garaged <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/frown.gif" BORDER="0"><p>Definitely go for the pro stuff, and definitely wax by hand. The 'trick' that we've been trying is not to use the traditional "Daniel Son" technique, but to follow the 'grain' of the motion of the car, applying the 'polish' in a forward/backward motion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Detailing questions (Needsdecaf)

Much appreciated Joe, i will give him a shout!<p>Adam, my car still beads water, but there are some swirls and my roof feels like crap! She still has a nice deep shine even when dirty <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Detailing questions (AthruC)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>AthruC</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not for nothing (it's too late for you though), my car is still beading water from Zaino treatments last fall. Have only washed her a handful of times and she is not garaged <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/frown.gif" BORDER="0"><p>Definitely go for the pro stuff, and definitely wax by hand. The 'trick' that we've been trying is not to use the traditional "Daniel Son" technique, but to follow the 'grain' of the motion of the car, applying the 'polish' in a forward/backward motion.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>I use Zaino and find it to be a wonderful polish. <p>However for claying and polishing, I use compounds from Griots or from Larry at CCS.
 

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Dan,<p>Visit <A HREF="http://www.autopia.org" TARGET="_blank">http://www.autopia.org</A>. Great website for detailing tips and such. The PC is a great machine, I've beaten the crap out of mine for 3 or 4 years, and it's still running!<p>Make sure you pick up pads for it, and some decent, multiple stage polishes. If you want some recommendations let me know.
 

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Re: Detailing questions (Needsdecaf)

... good point - I use Mother's or Meguire's clay and detailing spray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Detailing questions (AthruC)

I have Meguiers 3 stage i usually use by hand, but it's such a freakin pain to do. Wagons have a lot of area to cover
 

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Dan,<p>I use these polishes with great success...car is swirl free. Make sure you use halogen lighting on your workspace so you can see when it is swirl free.<p>Light polish:<br><A HREF="http://store.pakshak.com/1z-metallic-polish-1000ml.html" TARGET="_blank">http://store.pakshak.com/1z-me....html</A><p>Medium polish:<br><A HREF="http://store.pakshak.com/1z-paint-polish-1liter.html" TARGET="_blank">http://store.pakshak.com/1z-pa....html</A><br>
 

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Re: Detailing questions (Ride R)

Clay, Klasse AIO with PC, then Klasse SG by hand. If I have time I then apply some P21S on top of the SG, but that is just for added depth, the SG protects very well. I would try Zaino if I didn't have so much Klasse left in the bottles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: Detailing questions (I Roll)

i think i'm gonna take a run to Car care specialist, since I don't have work cause of the rain
 

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Re: Detailing questions (Ride R)

+1 for Griots <A HREF="http://www.griotsgarage.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.griotsgarage.com</A>/<p>I've been using their rubbing compounds and polishes for years, excellent stuff!
 

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I used to work for a very high end car detailing company in palm beach county. i have washed and waxed hundreds of cars. i was in high school and made over 4 hundred on weekends. this job tought me many things. like most importantly dont let anyine wash your car unless u trust them. never use a machine of any kind unless its a vacuum or shampoo machine for carpets. you get what you pay for in car care shops. never take the easy way out. yesterday i spent 5 hours washing, clay baring and waxing the r. and allways work under shade with enough light to see what your doin.
 

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Re: (R broski)

I use Mother's stuff exclusively, except for the polish, which is Zymol - all done by hand. Admittedly, I haven't used Zymol in years...wasn't about to put it on my F-150. A full detail of that thing (wash, clay, sealer and glaze, and solid carnuba wax, trim detailing, rims, tires, chrome, etc.) took an entire weekend. <p>I'm looking forward to doing this one in a few weeks or so.
 

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if you have the time, clay bar is a necessity!!!! make sure if your using the buffer to pay attention to the heat you produce with the wool pad/compound (1st stage) with factory clears that are thin, burning through can happen extremely fast. other than that my 6 years of detailing agrees with most comments above. with the hips this car has, getting the swirl out without polishing several stages will be hard so do the hand waxing a couple of times and they should 'disapear'
 

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Re: (JoshV70_)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>JoshV70_</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dan,<p>Visit <A HREF="http://www.autopia.org" TARGET="_blank">http://www.autopia.org</A>. Great website for detailing tips and such. The PC is a great machine, I've beaten the crap out of mine for 3 or 4 years, and it's still running!<p>Make sure you pick up pads for it, and some decent, multiple stage polishes. If you want some recommendations let me know.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>+1 for the 7424 (have used it for years), Larry @ CCS and Autopia. Between the three, your car will shine like never before <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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My black R was not garaged eaither, I just washed and waxed mine for 5hrs today and used tutle wax for black cars which I got at Advance Auto Parts for $20. Its a 2step wax. Its only for black cars since the actual wax and all the parts of it are black. I had a lot of timy scraches which were covered by wax. I really like the outcome.<p><IMG SRC="http://image.superchevy.com/f/chevy-tech/keeping-your-black-cars-finish-nice-thanks-to-the-turtle/16838017+cr1+re0+ar1/turtle-wax-black-box-kit.jpg" BORDER="0">
 

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1) practice on a honda first. <br>2) use the correct pad<br>3) use the correct product<br>4) use the correct technique<p>If you don't know the what answers are above, don't use the orbital buffer until you read up.
 

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It is nearly impossible to burn through paint with a PC...I believe someone tested and it took nearly 25 minutes continuously on one spot. A Makita on the other hand...you better keep that moving!
 

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Re: (JoshV70_)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>JoshV70_</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is nearly impossible to burn through paint with a PC...I believe someone tested and it took nearly 25 minutes continuously on one spot. A Makita on the other hand...you better keep that moving!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>You should NEVER use orbital waxers on black cars... hand wax it in straight lines in one direction.<p>The key to buffing is to not press the pad down firm on the car...glide the pad over the car and espcially on <B>BLACK</B> cars...go in straight lines or you'll have swirl city before too long. <p>My first job ever was a detail position P/T @ a Lexus dealership...I learned the hard way once.
 
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