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Discussion Starter #201
My fix for the so called “Gorilla Spring” Ignition switch: The very first issue that I had with my “new” PV444 in 2016 was a stuck ignition switch. If I turned the key two clicks to the right, the key would be stuck and I could not turn off the car without risk of breaking the key. I would resort to “stalling” the car and then disconnecting the battery if I inadvertently turned the key two clicks to the right. Then I had to remove the switch from the dash to remove the key and then with a screwdriver, to turn back the switch.



The prior owner had fitted the car with a bypass start button, so that the key only needed to be turned one click to the right. But I often overlooked this nuance in my ham fisted efforts to start the car.



This weekend, I addressed the problem once and for all by installing a new Bosch ignition switch. I used switch # 0 342 309 006 with numbered screw terminals.







The first order of business was to determine if I could use the switch by removing a small trim ring on the dashboard. Otherwise the new switch would not fit. This trim ring was just held in place with 4 tabs and fairly easily removed.















The second order of business was to understand how the switch was wired. I took a photo of the wiring at the back of the switch, and with a wiring diagram identified the various wires. I had an extra red wire, however, that I think was supposed to wire the supplemental electric fuel pump - but this wire went to the fuse box and was redundant to the green wires as near as I could determine, so I ultimately deleted this extra red wire.







Initially I planned to just replace the switch, but in the end, I sacrificed the coil as well.









I first cut the old switch off at the armored cable.







Then, to expose the ignition wire, I cut the armored cable off at the coil. This revealed the ignition coil wire, which unfortunately had become very brittle with age with the insulation cracking in several places. I attempted to re-assemble using the original coil, but I felt that I had a continuity problem with the wire and eventually I abandoned this plan.



Instead, I gutted the coil and used the coil housing to host a new 6 volt coil.









The original internal coil wires were packed in a plastic insulation material, not oil as I expected. After cutting off the top of the coil, I resorted to heating and burning this plastic with a propane torch, melting the plastic in the process. This was dirty, outdoor work but it allowed me to dig out the old coil wiring and the plastic. Internally, there were two sets of outside shims. I separated these and would use two of the pieces to shim in the new coil assembly.







I wired the new switch as follows: Terminal #30 – red, power in, hot; Terminal #50 – Grey – Starter solenoid; Terminal #75 – Green, accessories; Terminal #15 coil and fuel pump.



The supplemental electric fuel pump was tied in at the fuse box (was fused) and would pump if the key was turned left for accessories or turned right for the coil. I didn’t like this. I just wanted the fuel pump to be activated when the car was powered up for driving. So I tied the fuel pump into Terminal #15 with the coil.



I test fit the new coil in the car, shot the carbs full of starter fluid and with my fingers crossed, I turned it over with the starter button that I have left in place for now. The engine quickly (and happily for me) caught fire.







Tonight I’m painting the external casing and I will likely use a dab of epoxy or a spot weld to make sure the coil is firmly held within the casing. But I was pretty happy with the result and the fact that this annoying problem will be a thing of the past.



 

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Wow, great info on the guts of the coil housing, I have never seen one opened up on the top.

The failed insulation on the original coil's hot lead is totally expected, they all get like this. Usually, they just nestle in that armored capsule and it makes no difference. When we open it up after 60-ish years, it looks a bit different!
 

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Blueosprey90 that ignition switch looks like an excellent fit. Do you know if it has a different barrel diameter than the various 'universal' key switches out there? I purchased a Pertronix ignition and a Bosch blue coil before I realized that Volvo did that armored wire thing between the switch and the coil. I have not taken the assembly out just yet, and might try it in the spring. I was going to fab a plate to cover the diz hole in the firewall and bolt the new coil in with a bracket like most cars are done. I have a pretty cheapo key switch, but maybe the Bosch is a better piece and is more faithful to the period. I am not too concerned about keeping everything dead stock but I am not building a restomod either. Just a mild technological update.
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Yes, the barrel diameter is larger, but it fits nicely if you remove the trim ring from the dash. See my photos. The switch is a nice piece. I used part 0 342 309 006. It had screw terminals and came with a key, part E30. You can get the same switch and key with blade terminals as part 0 342-309-010. There are other switch and key variants. But the E30 key looked the best to me. I'll try to find the link the the site I purchased from on Monday on my work computer. I also used a Bosch Blue coil, 6 volts, but inserted in the gutted coil assembly. Ran the switch (+) wire to the large grommet above the fuse box and threaded it through and then to the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #205
@ScoopMan - I had no luck finding the site from where I ordered the ignition switch. The order came through Amazon, England. But I found this info that you may find helpful. The switches seem readily available if you Google "Bosch plus the switch number".

accessories.pdf (bosch.com)

On page A141, switch #5, is what I bought. Keys options are on page A 143.

I believe the spec on the switch barrel diameter is 22mm.
 

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Thanks blueosprey90. The switch I bought seems to have a smaller diameter barrel (I think 3/4"?) and I would have needed to fab some kind of escutcheon to make it fit decently. Yours looks much better. That Bosch catalog is a great resource, before you sent that I could not find out anything from Bosch except from independent vendors. The same basic switch as yours (maybe with minor variations) is available on this side of the pond for $40 or so. It appears often as a replacement for Porsche 356 units. Not too sure what the difference is between E1...E50 and E30 and whatever else. Key style I am thinking. Probably does not matter. No idea what a 'start repeating block' is, do you?

Sooner or later I will bump into you on one of our jaunts I am sure. Before that happens, last time we were out a few months ago I found I now have a short or a bad ground off my starter that cuts out all power, and it left us temporarily stranded in Brookfield in the left turn lane from Route 7/202 south to 202 south, right before 7 turns into divided highway to I-84. Shook some wires around and got it going but it was quite hairy as it was also night time and our lights were also out. Obviously need to address that before anything else! Waiting for both warmth and free time for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
It's April, the salt is washed off the roads and yesterday was my day to drive the Volvo to work. Have my nice new ignition switch installed early February.

But the car won't start.

Went to fix it last evening. Pulled the switch and was looking for a ground for the test light under the dash.

Saw the hidden starter push button. DUH!
 
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