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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Posting in the R forum since y'all seem to have more experience with these from my searches...

I recently installed the iPd poly inserts in my original subframe bushings and I am very impressed with the improved handling and reduction in chassis flex and crashing over bumps, however I was not impressed with the fitment. I had a hard time getting them seated and 3 of them still aren't seated so I've decided that I'm going to do what I should have done in the first place and get the delrin mounts.

My question is, which ones should I go with? I know there are some 2-piece ones from CJ Yother and the really nice looking one piece ones from Kaplhenke. In my mind it seems that the two piece ones would be easier to install and might stabilize the subframe slightly better since there is a lip at the top and the bottom. However I like that the Kaplhenke ones seem to be exactly like the OEM mounts except solid delrin. This makes me think that they might fit better. Any advice?

My other question is specifically for anyone who has either and has an automatic transmission. Did you notice an increase in engine vibration at idle? I just changed my lower transmission torque mount to a new OEM rubber one which fixed a really annoying vibration at idle and I don't want to do anything that would bring it back. With the iPd inserts I haven't noticed any additional vibration at idle. I can feel the engine running but it is not in any way harsh.

From what I read the tradeoff is totally worth it, but I just want to know what to expect. Thanks!
 

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No you shouldn't have any more vibrations with delrin. I have the kaphlenke bushings. They are hard to get fully seated and will never come back out short of setting the car on fire.

I like the idea of the two piece design as long as it's a tight fit.
 

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I decided to go with the CJ Yother 2 piece bushings. I haven't installed them yet so I've contributed nothing here....
 

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I am very pleased with the ones from Ben K. Probably one of the best upgrades you can do to the R. Such a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. I'm leaning towards the two piece ones at this point. Anyone have them mind posting pics of how they look installed? I only found one install pic but the guy used big metal washers above and below the bushing which I don't think are necessary. To me it looks like you would just need the factory metal washer / plate below it and nothing above. Is this correct?
 

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Those photos with the washers between the bushings and the jack plates you refer to were probably the ones I posted on SS; those were the gen1 CJ bushings, which had a flat bottom. As CJ stated in the comment above, the current-generation Yother bushings maintain OEM-style fitment, as the bottom of the bushing is now concave, like the stock rubber bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Those photos with the washers between the bushings and the jack plates you refer to were probably the ones I posted on SS; those were the gen1 CJ bushings, which had a flat bottom. As CJ stated in the comment above, the current-generation Yother bushings maintain OEM-style fitment, as the bottom of the bushing is now concave, like the stock rubber bushings.
Good to know, thanks! I think I'll be going with those then. Will report back when they are installed. Might be a while though due to work schedule and weather.
 

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The two piece bushings are not a very good fit. I'd go with the Kaplhenke bushings. They pop into place when you seat them and are very nice looking. No silly washers or anything. The volvo subframe bushing washers also fit perfectly and if you have any options like the factory engine preheater (which is installed onto one of the bushings) it won't interfere. Get the Kaplhenke set, you won't be disappointed.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If anyone has pics of either of these installed, I'd like to see them. I don't have an engine preheater so they don't have to be exacty like the factory bushings, although I do like the idea of keeping it factory. Just thinking in my mind that the two piece design would be easier to install and may actually hold the subframe a bit more securely on the up-down axis due to having a lip at both the top and the bottom. I understand the Kaplhenke ones snap in and fit very tight but if the CJ Yother ones also fit very tightly but are easier to install then why not go with those?

Also, just wondering if anyone here has the special tool from Volvo to remove the old ones without dropping the subframe? If not I'm thinking about buying it and then letting anyone else here rent it or buy it from me when I'm done. Here it is in case you don't know what I'm talking about - http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/9995457

Pictures of the tool can be found here - http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/155480-subframe-bushing-steering-rack-rr-w-volvo-tool-comments/
 

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How are they not a good fit? They are an interference fit and fit tightly in the sub-frame.
CJ I don't know if I have installed a set of yours before. They may have been the set that LG speed sold? It was years ago, I can't remember.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update - I ended up going with CJ's and I got the front two installed today. I couldn't find the Volvo tool for sale anywhere so I made a similar tool using plumbing parts and a threaded rod and it worked mostly great. First bushing popped right out, the second one ripped and then I was able to get it out with pliers and a flathead screwdriver.

The reason that I wasn't able to get the rears done is because on the driver's side the chassis has these little cylinders that protrude down into the center of the bushing and in the rear I wasn't able to get the subframe to drop enough to get my tool in there and that means I definitely wouldn't be able to get the new bushings in there. I was barely able to in the front on the driver's side. Any tips? I don't have a lift so I'm trying to do this in my driveway. Thanks!
 

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Did you unbolt the knuckle on the steering shaft to the rack?

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