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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
So I soda blasted the parts some more but really didn't get them any cleaner. At least not anything worth uploading more pictures.

I thought the center section could be balanced just as the rotating parts, but I talked to a balancing shop and they balance the turbo with the center housing assembled. Tonight I set out to assemble it. Starting with a pool of oil!



I poured oil in the oil inlet. Of course I spilled it everywhere but whatever. Better more than less. Gonna put on a smokeshow when I bolt it up though.



Installed the impeller side sealing ring.



Put the bearing in the housing, slid the impeller down, no problems.



Installed the compressor side o-ring:



Installed the compressor side bearing



Compressor side thrust bearing:



Tried to put the thrust plate in and couldn't, so I had to remove the o-ring, then it went in fine.



Put in the compressor side seal:



Put whatever this plate is on with the seal bushing, and put the o-ring back in:



Then I couldn't get the outer sealing plate on, the o-ring seal was too tight. So I decided to use the compressor wheel and nut to push it down. Unfortunately the inner seal ring did not compress into the plate as needed, I hooked the edge of it and it popped out. I gouged the center bore of the seal plate and bent the seal ring.



I also dinged up the seal bushing.




After a few minutes of thinking about it, I realized that I should have put the seal ring into that plate first, then tried shoving it in the housing. I tested it on my old parts and it worked perfectly. Live and learn.

I did some preliminary shopping and can't find anywhere that seals individual parts like that, I pretty much have to buy a whole new rebuild kit to replace the 3 parts I damaged. $60 mistake. I've made bigger mistakes before. Live and learn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
Exactly. I even saw that video first but the logic of stacking the oil seal in first didn't hit me until I destroyed it.
 

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While you have it apart again, you might consider going over all of the parts, especially those inside the lubricated cavity, with Brakleen spray. Hose it out good. You know this already, but turbos are precision devices and even a small speck of dirt can kill them. There are what appears to be little black flecks in some of the pictures and some grunge still in the o-ring groove. All of that should come out. You will be glad you did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
Well, a couple weeks ago I got my second rebuild kit, and got it together. Much easier when you do it in the right order:



Unfortunately this backing shield wouldn't work. If you look closely, right where it's bent, it's not relieved so it actually holds itself above the surface. A few seconds with the dremel would have solved that, but I was angry enough that I just used the old one from the turbo to begin with. It's not a wear item anyway.



I sent the turbo out for balance, and while I can't see any signs that they balanced it, they cleaned it far better than I could have. Looks like a bead blast finish.





I don't know if they took it apart or not, but at this point I don't care. It's clean and balanced and ready for installation!
 

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Discussion Starter · #267 ·
Nope, there's only a few parts that control the location, and I assume they just hold the tolerance super tight on those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
Alright, a few weeks ago I solvent cleaned the cold side:





Then I soda blasted it:





It doesn't quite dig in to the aluminum, as there are still some black spots of corrosion that didn't come out with anything, even wire brushing. I suppose I'd have to sand or bead blast to really get those out, but this is plenty clean for something that sits completely out of view in back of the motor.

Reassembled cold side:



Then last week I dug in to replacing it. First of course is removal of all the hoses and connections.



In about an hour I had it out of the car. I wonder what pink on your hotside means? Am I running rich or lean or something?



Turbo housing pretty clean inside. I also checked this for cracks when the engine was out of the car, so far so good. The wetness is just coolant that dripped off the cooling line.



These added about 30-40 minutes to the job, for some reason everything on the back of my motor is corroded like this, it was the weirdest thing. They were like this at 39k when I got the car back in 2007. Nothing else on the car was corroded at all.



Anyway, I decided I didn't like them, and I have a low mile engine for my wagon sitting in my warehouse at work, so I snagged the oil lines off of it.

Transferred the CBV and wastegate actuator off of the 16T, both are in way better condition than the ones on the 19T.



And one V-band clamp is all that holds the CRHA and cold side on to the car.



I did all that last week, and then came down with some annoying stomach bug so it wasn't until tonight that I swapped the new oil feed lines on and buttoned up all the intake tubing. Hooked up a boost gauge and took it out for a test drive. Pulls a nice hard 20 inHg of vacuum, and very quickly makes 17 psi with the existing tune. I was very careful though not to not have any boost until the engine was running over 3000 rpm, just for safety. It's high boost at low RPM that kills these motors, in the form of bent rods.

So today I dropped it off with JZW to re-tune it, I asked him if I need bigger injectors but he said not at altitude with the gas we have available. I'll only be pushing to 20 psi anyway, others do more with blue injectors.

But I can feel it already, I'm gonna need a new clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 · (Edited)
1. Holy Moly this is ridiculous
2. Low 70's and zero chance of rain predicted for the next 7 days
3. What a great way to finish modding this car.

I'll try to get some video of the boost gauge somehow, because it's nuts. This thing is basically dying to make boost at all times. John (JZW tuning) kept my car for a full day and not only dialed it in to peak at 22 psi and then level off around 20, in all gears INCLUDING FIRST, but he double and triple checked the a/f ratios and injector duty cycle to make sure I wasn't in danger of damaging my engine. He said he thinks this is about as hard as we can push the motor on stock internals, which is fine by me because it is really wicked fast compared to what it was. And I have no interest in opening up the motor.

Basically between 2000 and 3500 it ramps smoothly up from zero all the way to 22, then levels off at 20, then at around 5000 it dips to 17 and holds there. I don't take this motor up over 6500 even though the redline is somewhere north of 7000. The torque peak is around 4k so I like to hover there.

My buddy who just got a very nice all stock '97 850R took me to pick it up tonight, and on the freeway drive back he did the "honk honk go" signal at me, and I absolutely walked away from him. Like not even close. Like I had to ask him if he tried to keep up because it looked like he didn't. (It was 10pm, the freeway was empty, and we were basically doing 3rd gear bursts from 60 to 80 in a 75mph zone.)

I really can't think of anything else I would do to this car. I'd like a big Brembo brake kit, but they are very un-affordable for this car, and the stock brakes work very well. So I'll only do that if I have money to burn or stumble upon a great deal. I do want to PDR this car, as it needs it, and at some point it needs minor paint work as the driver's door, hood, and front bumper are pretty scratched up. But again, that will come later.

So for now I'm really, really done. My hard costs for this turbo upgrade come to $395 including the extra rebuild kit and re-tune. Total project costs are not quite but really close to $11,000 with the new wheels, the quaife, the full suspension rebuild, etc. And there was unfortunately another $1500-$2000 wasted on tools and software I didn't need (but are nice to have), and re-buying things to deal with the problems of trying to manual swap and relying on a single tuner to do it. I will never recommend manual swapping an ME7 car again, without bringing over the electronics from the donor car.
 

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Sweet. Is the compressor outlet the same inside diameter on all of these turbos?

Time to drive! I would say this car just might be a sleeper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
You mean where it connects to the over-engine pipe? I'm sure they are, only to make sure Volvo didn't have to have a variety of couplings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #274 ·
I guess the last point to put on it is we did a dyno day today.



Results:



Now, there are some interesting things to discuss. First, all my previous runs have been done on a Dynojet, this was my first time on a Mustang dyno. Everyone knows Dynojets read higher numbers than Mustangs, nobody really has a good explanation of why. Both are measuring power using basic physics, but one of the cars today was run just a few weeks ago on a Dynojet, and ran today for comparison. The Dyno operator said that Dynojets show 13% higher numbers, and sure enough, his numbers today on the Mustang dyno were 13% lower than the Dynojet numbers. Other than that, I use uncorrected numbers, as I'm in the camp that believes turbos compensate for altitude, so using the weather correction factor is artificially inflating the results.

So my improvements have followed this path (all numbers uncorrected for weather):

Bone stock C70 T5 automatic: 183HP, 198 ft-lb at the wheels on a Dynojet
IPD tune with manual swap: 215 HP, 260 ft-lb at the wheels on a Dynojet
JZW tune with 3" downpipe, RIP kit, 19T and drop in IC: 227 HP, 274 ft-lb at the wheels on a Mustang
Corrected by 13% to match a dynojet: 256 HP, 309 ft-lb at the wheels.

So if that's true I'm 41 HP and 49 ft-lb over my IPD tune, and 73HP and 112 ft-lb over where I started. The car definitely feels like it. What's cool is I was the third highest power/torque out of the 6 cars that showed up.



I'm still working on getting a movie of my boost gauge during a pull, I need to mount it permanently first though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
I decided to upgrade to green fuel injectors to allow me to road trip this car to sea level, as I'd been told that even here at altitude the blues are at a pretty high duty cycle with a 19T. Unfortunately JZW decided not to return my calls when I tried to get the upgrade done. I'd been on the fence about switching to a Hilton tune and that sealed the deal. Installed it tonight, and now we're doing some data logging passes to dial it in. Already it feels great though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #276 · (Edited)
Update: Hilton is amazing. He does whatever is needed to get the car right. Just from reading the logs he could tell that my wastegate was set too low, and detected that my MAF was on the way out. Other tuners just tell you to set it at a certain PSI, he had me adjust it till the car behaved right. I did that and replaced the MAF and it just keeps getting better, we've gone through four rounds of tuning already. Also my info computer's MPG and miles to empty were way off after installing the green injectors and he fixed that, as well as dialing down the throttle sensitivity. I've always felt that the throttle was a bit like an on-off switch in traffic and was a bit difficult to launch. I simply asked and he re-scaled it no problem. Now I can actually launch smooth and drive smoothly in stop and go traffic as well.

Another huge advantage of a Hilton tune is the data logging. IPD's tune also had that available but you had to pay extra for it. Rob uses the logs to tune your car but you can open and read them yourself as well. We're both not happy with my intake temps, so I ordered a Snabb intercooler, I'll be able to confirm their assertion that it works a ton better than the ebay intercooler that I have now. I'll update again when I get that in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
Snabb intercooler installed! Here's some comparison pictures:

Snabb (left) is way beefier, felt like it weighed twice as much as the ARD unit.



Construction is much more robust and the fit was flawless.



Inferior tube and fin construction.



Superior bar and plate core.



So yeah the Snabb intercooler works a ton better than the ARD intercooler. ARD just buys a garbage tube and fin intercooler from eBay and then marks it up $125. I was seeing intake temps almost 100 degrees above ambient. Here's a chart comparing it to Snabb.



In this graph, the last run I did with my ARD intercooler started at almost 20 degrees above the 76° ambient and ended 77 degrees above that.
My Snabb intercooler was only 5° above the 71° ambient tonight and only gained 38 degrees on a full throttle 3rd gear run.

Other interesting facts in this graph: I accelerated from 2000 to 6500 1.5 seconds faster with the Snabb intercooler. Boost built up faster as well. The tune still made 22 psi in both cases but with cooler intake temps there is even more oxygen, and the engine can hold the timing more advanced. I clearly have more torque with the Snabb intercooler.

I sent the data logs to Hilton to see if he wants to change anything more with my tune. If not then this is truly the end of my upgrade path until something breaks. The car is really fast now, and just needs cosmetic improvement. If I ever get around to wrapping, dipping, or painting it, I'll update the thread again. Also if I do another drag strip or dyno run.
 

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Stunning results. Thank you. I would not have expected that one upgraded I/C could be so superior over another. I remember watching an old IPD video advertising the IPD upgraded drop-in I/C. In it they test the performance of the stock I/C, and conclude that the stock I/C actually did a pretty good job of cooling the intake air. Almost like it wasn't necessary to upgrade, since the stock I/C was pretty efficient; curiously, they don't provide the comparison figures for their upgraded unit(???).

https://youtu.be/MfSEH-ur7gc

As a result of that video, I've always just run a stock intercooler. But if ARD's I/C is already an upgrade over stock, then the results you got with the SNABB I/C suggest it would be a very significant upgrade over the stock I/C's performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
I doubt ARD's intercooler performs any better than stock. It's thicker but less dense and still tube and fin. Bar and plate is clearly the way to go.

What you should do is measure your intake temperature, ideally through a data logger of some kind. Do a 3rd gear pull at full throttle from 2000 to 6500 rpm and see how high it goes.
 

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Lloyd, what's the diameter of the snabb intercooler outlet? On the bottom, for "rip" kit type intake routing?


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