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I added a dashcam (VIOFO a129 with hk3 hardwire kit and reputable add a fuse) using fuse 14 in the passenger compartment. Worked fine and the manual said the fuse was unused. However, when my car was in for service I was told this caused all sorts of canvas or other errors preventing vida connection. They said this could void my warranty

Here’s the write up:
PERFORMED DIAGNOSTIC INSPECTIONS OF OD UNIT AND FAULT TRACED TO CUSTOMERS AFTER MARKET DASH CAM ADD A FUSE PLUGGED INTO CENTRAL FUSE
BOX CF14 FOR STEBRING WHEEL MODULE. UNPLUGGED DASH CAM TO CORRECT SUPPLY VOLTAGE TO VOLVO SPECIFICATIONS FOR LIN NETWORK. RECOMMEND A PROPER 12V PLUG ON DASH CAM AND OR REMOVING FROM CIRCUIT. THIS COULD LEAD TO NARRANTY VOIDING IF FUTURE ISSUES DEVELOP AS A RESULT OF DASH CAM WIRED TO FUSB BLOCK-COMPLIMENTARY ONE TIME INSPECTION.
anyone have any experience with this issue? Wondering if I have a defective dashcam/kit

Now I have some electrical knowledge, but this strikes me as some kinda BS. First of all, the manual doesn’t say that fuse 14 is for the steering wheel. Is the manual wrong?

Maybe the voltage converter is a bit noisy, but this seems to speak to poor electrical design by volvo. Plugging in a very low power cam should not crash the diagnostics

so anyone have option? Try another voltage converter? Install a capacitor/filter to reduce line noise (I've seen some on amazon but don't want to waste time/money just throwing crap at this... I don't have a scope to view the voltage stability)? Just ignore it and unplug the dashcam every time it’s in the shop?

wondering what a “proper 12v plug” is if not another voltage converter plugged into the exact same 12v supply through the cigarette lighter?

at the time I was worried about a bigger problem so this wasn’t at the top of my list of questions at that moment.
 

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I agree with you. Fuse 14 is blank. Fuse 13 is the heated steering wheel. Did the dealer list any codes?
What issue are having that you went to the dealer. Did you use F14 again for the camera, did the fault return.

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Dealt with this at the dealer a few times.

Had one customer who had a dash cam installed, the installation shop tapped into a network wire for power lol

There are also many variations of cars that can determine what fuse is what, best way is to use the wiring diagram specific to the car
 

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I added a dashcam (VIOFO a129 with hk3 hardwire kit and reputable add a fuse) using fuse 14 in the passenger compartment. Worked fine and the manual said the fuse was unused. However, when my car was in for service I was told this caused all sorts of canvas or other errors preventing vida connection. They said this could void my warranty

Here’s the write up:


anyone have any experience with this issue? Wondering if I have a defective dashcam/kit

Now I have some electrical knowledge, but this strikes me as some kinda BS. First of all, the manual doesn’t say that fuse 14 is for the steering wheel. Is the manual wrong?

Maybe the voltage converter is a bit noisy, but this seems to speak to poor electrical design by volvo. Plugging in a very low power cam should not crash the diagnostics

so anyone have option? Try another voltage converter? Install a capacitor/filter to reduce line noise (I've seen some on amazon but don't want to waste time/money just throwing crap at this... I don't have a scope to view the voltage stability)? Just ignore it and unplug the dashcam every time it’s in the shop?

wondering what a “proper 12v plug” is if not another voltage converter plugged into the exact same 12v supply through the cigarette lighter?

at the time I was worried about a bigger problem so this wasn’t at the top of my list of questions at that moment.
So the responses here aren't necessarily correct. Let me go into further detail. I run 2 x Viofo A129s in two different vehicles. Hardwiring CAN cause interference with other systems because they may be inevitably linked by Canbus. I have experienced this first hand on both cars I hardwired. As picking the right fuse is a bit of guess work.

My Volvo S60: I Hardwired the ACC to the 12V tunnel console Fuse. Every time I locked my car, the camera powered back on, after being shut down. The manual did not state that the 12V tunnel console was tied to the alarm via the canbus system. Changed the fuse. All works great. I use Heated Seats for the (ACC) and powered seats (Battery). The ground always needs to be to a bolt with metal backing.

Honda Civic: I hardwired a Viofo A129 into my mother's Honda Civic. Again a Canbus issue arose. The infotainment / radio had static. Fuse wasn't listed as being tied into radio via canbus. Once I switched fuse to another spot, the static issue resolved.

So can an improper fuse cause issues with Vida? My guess would be yes. If the fuse tap is interfering with multiple systems tied together, then it's possible it could cause VIDA to have improper readouts. Will it void your warranty? Absolutely not. You can simply pick another spot to place the fuse tap until finding a fuse that doesn't cause issue.

HK3 Hardwire: - Always and I mean Always AVOID tapping into safety systems and ideally electronics. You want the most benign fuses possible.

1. Be sure your ground is to a bolt with metal backing

2. Set Voltage Cutoff to 12.2 (50%). Anything lower risks your car not starting and anything higher risks the camera shutting off prematurely in park mode as battery ages.

3. Hopefully you wired everything behind the side curtains and removed the A-Pillar and routed wires so that they aren't obstructing the side curtains.

4. Hopefully you routed the hatch properly.

5. Here's a quasi guide. I haven't hardwired or routed a rear cam on an XC60 so bit of guesswork on airbag / curtain locations but this should be used to check whether you did things right.

I haven't yet updated to include how to hardware. Ill get to that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the responses. I was in for third row climate issues that predated installation of the dashcam. I did wire as myvolvos60 suggested with proper routing behind airbags etc. I did not personally notice any issues caused by the cam.

the dealer told me they were unable to connect to Vida and when they disconnected the cam it resolved. They did briefly show me a printout of a bunch of voltage errors or something but it was just a quick peek and I didn’t get a copy or look in detail because it’s not like I would know what it meant anyways. I was already upset with them because they weren’t taking my other issue seriously so I decided to postpone asking about the dashcam

I’m headed back in because they now say there’s a fix for the climate issue and I’m wondering if I should plug back in with a new fuse location but if it causes Vida trouble again I don’t want them to charge me for a second “diagnosis”
 

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Thanks for all the responses. I was in for third row climate issues that predated installation of the dashcam. I did wire as myvolvos60 suggested with proper routing behind airbags etc. I did not personally notice any issues caused by the cam.

the dealer told me they were unable to connect to Vida and when they disconnected the cam it resolved. They did briefly show me a printout of a bunch of voltage errors or something but it was just a quick peek and I didn’t get a copy or look in detail because it’s not like I would know what it meant anyways. I was already upset with them because they weren’t taking my other issue seriously so I decided to postpone asking about the dashcam

I’m headed back in because they now say there’s a fix for the climate issue and I’m wondering if I should plug back in with a new fuse location but if it causes Vida trouble again I don’t want them to charge me for a second “diagnosis”
If it were me, I'd test dealer's theory by unplugging fuse taps before your next appointment, to see if the dealer still has issues reading the vehicle with Vida. Again, it could very well be a real issue, and removing the camera without dealer knowing would determine if they are "Bs'ing" or being up front. If they come back with we can't read anything and your camera is unplugged, you can call them out on it. If they come back and say this time we got readings no issue, then you know the fuse location needs changed.

I had to swap fuse location on my vehicles per above. Canbus does create issues so this isn't a make believe comment based on hypothetical conjecture.
 
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I follow that tapping into a fuse may affect the monitored voltages of the components that it is feeding but I'm not following or not aware of any fuses being installed within a CAN line. I get that affecting the voltage of the CAN hi or low line may lead to issues, thanks!
 

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If it were me, I'd test dealer's theory by unplugging fuse taps before your next appointment...
MAYBE that is their real goal. So you don't have a camera monitoring what they do with your car!
(I am mainly joking here, but you never know, or maybe that is why they unplugged it last time, because of something that happened or was about to happen 🤔 ;))
 

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I follow that tapping into a fuse may affect the monitored voltages of the components that it is feeding but I'm not following or not aware of any fuses being installed within a CAN line. I get that affecting the voltage of the CAN hi or low line may lead to issues, thanks!
I don't understand what you're trying to say here, but Canbus is how multiple systems communicate.

From Wikipedia: A Controller Area Network (CAN bus) is a robust vehicle bus standard designed to allow microcontrollers and devices to communicate with each other's applications without a host computer.

Therefore, if you tap into one fuse and it causes a conflict with it's ability to interact with another system, then X system can exhibit abnormal behavior. Just as I stated above where my tap into the 12V console worked fine. However, when I went to lock my car, I kept finding the camera powered back on after being shut off. Some reason, the 12v console needs to communicate and interact with the alarm, meaning those systems are tied together.

The same argument with the radio interference on my mother's car. Swapped fuses to a different spot and all works well.
 

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MAYBE that is their real goal. So you don't have a camera monitoring what they do with your car!
(I am mainly joking here, but you never know, or maybe that is why they unplugged it last time, because of something that happened or was about to happen 🤔 ;))
Unless you have an interior camera (which I do), then the dash camera would only be useful in capturing dealer employees causing an accident or driving unsafely while operating your vehicle. So the incentive to disable the camera doesn't make a whole lot of sense, since you wouldn't know if X employee riffled through your car, stole money, belongings, etc.
 

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I don't understand what you're trying to say here, but Canbus is how multiple systems communicate.

From Wikipedia: A Controller Area Network (CAN bus) is a robust vehicle bus standard designed to allow microcontrollers and devices to communicate with each other's applications without a host computer.

Therefore, if you tap into one fuse and it causes a conflict with it's ability to interact with another system, then X system can exhibit abnormal behavior. Just as I stated above where my tap into the 12V console worked fine. However, when I went to lock my car, I kept finding the camera powered back on after being shut off. Some reason, the 12v console needs to communicate and interact with the alarm, meaning those systems are tied together.

The same argument with the radio interference on my mother's car. Swapped fuses to a different spot and all works well.
I don't see what tapping into ANY 12v source anywhere on any fuse has to do with the canbus. Unless there is too much draw, which should blow the fuse anyway, and kill something else from lack of power, doesn't make sense to me.
Unless something is way to "noisy" and putting some EMF back into the system blocking communication. Like how the rear cams were messing with antennas...
 

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I don't see what tapping into ANY 12v source anywhere on any fuse has to do with the canbus. Unless there is too much draw, which should blow the fuse anyway, and kill something else from lack of power, doesn't make sense to me.
Unless something is way to "noisy" and putting some EMF back into the system blocking communication. Like how the rear cams were messing with antennas...
I do not have an electrical degree and most definitely am not an electrical engineer. However,it's common knowledge that CanBus systems communicate with one another. Do hardwire kits introduce noise / feedback? I don't know, but that might be the case. What I do know is that TOO MUCH draw isn't the issue. Dashcams use about .5 amps so interference is not synonymous with blowing a fuse from overloading.

Again, I have experienced the issue of intereference / conflicts on two different vehicles. So I know first hand that tapping into the wrong fuse can indeed cause problems. One should always avoid electronics and safety systems. The issue is that benign fuses don't always list other systems tied to them in vehicle manuals.
 

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Thanks for all the responses. I was in for third row climate issues that predated installation of the dashcam. I did wire as myvolvos60 suggested with proper routing behind airbags etc. I did not personally notice any issues caused by the cam.

the dealer told me they were unable to connect to Vida and when they disconnected the cam it resolved. They did briefly show me a printout of a bunch of voltage errors or something but it was just a quick peek and I didn’t get a copy or look in detail because it’s not like I would know what it meant anyways. I was already upset with them because they weren’t taking my other issue seriously so I decided to postpone asking about the dashcam

I’m headed back in because they now say there’s a fix for the climate issue and I’m wondering if I should plug back in with a new fuse location but if it causes Vida trouble again I don’t want them to charge me for a second “diagnosis”
By chance did you do a front to rear camera install or only a front? If front to rear dash cam, which pillars on the Recharge had airbags and needed avoided other than of course A-Pillar?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
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By chance did you do a front to rear camera install or only a front? If front to rear dash cam, which pillars on the Recharge had airbags and needed avoided other than of course A-Pillar?
Front to rear and basically all of them? I routed down the a pillar to the fuses behind the airbag (meaning on the side it doesn’t deploy where there is existing cabling you can follow) and through the headliner along the passenger side behind side curtain airbags meaning pretty much up against the sun roof until I got past that and went diagonal to the hatch wire boots. I kinda followed this YouTube guy:

now given the dealer complaints I’m not sure I can recommend it, but volvo does sell a dashcam so I’m curious how they install it. Do they really leave a wire hanging down to the 12v plug in the center console or hardwire it somehow? I’m not worried about safety issues. I did rip one of the little velcro tabs in the headliner and had to superglue it back. I also needed several poles/grabbers taped to my usb wire to pass through the back headliner, but if you start off with a fish tape or fish pole your life will be easier.

Once you understand how automotive trim works generally it won’t seem very hard. I do give props to volvo for having trim that removes and reinstalls quite easily. The rear hatch boot was the worst part I ended up prying off the rubber part and then removing the plastic grommet thing so I could reattach the rubber and snap the grommet back. My grabber also tore the plastic sheathing of my cable so I started to worry it damaged other wires. There probably a Better way but I already had all the trim off so I didn’t want to leave it for another day
 

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Working around all the air bag systems:
I've seen some demonstrations down at Volvo's NJ HQ of firing off air bags (using a 9V battery) and it is both powerful and frightening. These things were transported in strong metal frame cages and for good reasons. I for one would be very concerned about working in and around the wiring for the air bags - I don't know what the wiring insulation is but it could be possible that working in the vehicle you could be become charged, and then discharge to wires that connect to an airbag. Not sure what the threshold is for firing but if they transport them in special enclosures I'd guess it is possible a static discharge could fire one off.

As for the camera and interference: when the camera is powered up it could be generating noise that could couple with the DC power supply and/or with other wiring that is running in parallel with camera wires and the DC supply. The CAN bus is pretty resilient by design, still, it is possible that a not-so-well designed device could be emitting some interference that impacts the bus itself - or - another device connected to it.

I also wouldn't trust the fact that the documentation indicates the fuse is not used - I would take it more like none of the systems in the vehicle use a fuse in that position - the fuse block could still be wired in such a way that other variants of its use would have a use for that fuse position.
 

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I also wouldn't trust the fact that the documentation indicates the fuse is not used - I would take it more like none of the systems in the vehicle use a fuse in that position - the fuse block could still be wired in such a way that other variants of its use would have a use for that fuse position.
Unfortunately, @rpmccormick is 100% right. Unused doesn't mean unaffected. An empty slot could still cause interference with other CanBus systems. Basically, there's two ways to go off hardwiring. Guess and check (if you have problems move it to another fuse) while avoiding electronics and safety systems from the get go. Or you can try to get a wiring diagram /schematic of the car and determine which systems are connected where and to what....Not the easiest route unless you have an electrical background to go and trade the wiring / flowchart.


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Working around all the air bag systems:
I've seen some demonstrations down at Volvo's NJ HQ of firing off air bags (using a 9V battery) and it is both powerful and frightening. These things were transported in strong metal frame cages and for good reasons. I for one would be very concerned about working in and around the wiring for the air bags - I don't know what the wiring insulation is but it could be possible that working in the vehicle you could be become charged, and then discharge to wires that connect to an airbag. Not sure what the threshold is for firing but if they transport them in special enclosures I'd guess it is possible a static discharge could fire one off.
Wiring behind the airbag(to route rear camera) and along the clips should be fine. I've never personally had issues, and so long as someone isn't tapping into the safety systems, I doubt there's a risk of these airbags deploying at random.

As for the camera and interference: when the camera is powered up it could be generating noise that could couple with the DC power supply and/or with other wiring that is running in parallel with camera wires and the DC supply. The CAN bus is pretty resilient by design, still, it is possible that a not-so-well designed device could be emitting some interference that impacts the bus itself - or - another device connected to it.
That would sound logical except that's contrary to my own experience. I tapped into the 12V tunnel socket. When I didn't need camera running in park mode, I'd hit power button and shut it off manually. I'd go to lock my car, double click so the keyfob to enable car alarm, and the camera would power right back up.....Ah Canbus you A-HOLE. Swapped fuses.

Because the hardwire kit is always drawing power from the fusebox, it's the hardwire kit (one fuse is accessory and other battery) that causes interference with CanBus. I surmise this problem wouldn't be relegated to only the Viofo Hardwiring kit either. Pretty much, these hardwiring kits are meant to draw power from the battery to permit the camera to run when the car is off (park mode). And these hardwire kits also monitor voltage (voltage cutoff) to prevent them from draining the battery.

So it's extremely likely that this voltage monitoring system and continuous power draw don't play nice with certain Canbus Systems.

Again...my BEST guess, as I don't profess to have an electrical background.


I also wouldn't trust the fact that the documentation indicates the fuse is not used - I would take it more like none of the systems in the vehicle use a fuse in that position - the fuse block could still be wired in such a way that other variants of its use would have a use for that fuse position.
Agreed. See above post.
 

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I have the fitcamx that taps into the existing wiring and power for the rain sensing wipers and it works great! Integrates into the intellisafe housing. Not feature rich but literally gets the job done.

Here's a clip featuring a wrong way escalade at night in 4k with the exposure down -1. Download it to view it in 4K as the streaming version looks low res


Love the quality and integration. No issues at the dealer.
 
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