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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, it took three hours, but I just completed the dash cam installation I've been dreading--a front and rear Vantrue S1 on my XC60. I've never really documented a project like this, so I thought I'd try this time. I got pictures of many of the steps, but not all of them. I've also not uploaded a lot of photos before, so I'm going to try and it's probably not going to be "the way," but hopefully it's helpful to someone! A few notes from my install:
  • I've read on the forums here about avoiding the airbags in the A-pillar--I did this even though it's a touch of extra work to remove the A-pillar trim piece.
  • I used a hardwire kit specific to the Vantrue S1. I used Fuse 49 which I confirmed was not "hot" when the car was off, but was hot when the ignition is in "on position." The hardwire kit came with a fuse tap. It's basically a fuse tap and a voltage reducer as far as I can tell.
  • The trim pieces were fairly straightforward. I did discover that one of the clips on the threshold trim piece was (I firmly believe) not in the right position from the factory; after moving the clip, the piece reinstalled perfectly. I didn't notice when I took the threshold trim piece off whether it was fastened correctly.
  • I ran the rear camera cable along the headliner, again being careful to stay behind the airbags. At the rear of the XC60, I (with my wife's help) snaked the camera cable through the waterproof wire loom and behind another trim piece on the lift gate all the way to the rear camera install position. I did not modify any trim pieces. I put the extra cable for the camera behind the trim pieces in the trunk, which you can see in the pictures (assuming I can get them to load).

Again, hope this is helpful to someone.

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Vantrue S1 from Amazon; front and rear option. It came with a trim tool which was very helpful.

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Threshold trim piece has three metal clips. Later I'll show you which one was installed in the incorrect position (I believe).

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Here's the three clips. The one at the bottom was not in the right slot from the factory. When I moved it to the other available slot, the trim piece installed perfectly.


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To be continued.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
More photos from the install:

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Inside the fuse box in the passenger footwell. Gently pull on the side of the fuse box closest to the front of the car, and it pivots on the hinges which are on the side toward the back of the car. I used Slot 49 which was not live when the car was off and was live when the car was on. I'm not concerned with parking mode on the dash cam, as I've read too many posts about dead batteries and I just don't want to deal with that possibility.

Electrical wiring Trunk Auto part Computer hardware Cable

Fuse tap in Slot 49 with the 5A micro fuse that came with the hardwire kit. Note the red wire goes to the hardwire kit that isn't yet wired in for this photo.

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Closeup of the fuse tap, but mainly I'm showing where I grounded the camera kit. This screw in the upper right is a 7mm socket; I backed it off, inserted the grounding wire underneath it, and retightened. Voila!

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This is the back of the smaller piece of vertical trim that runs on the right side of the passenger dash. It fits together with the threshold trim shown earlier. I removed it after wiring up the camera to enable the best cable routing.

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To be continued.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
More photos:

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The rear lift gate trim piece I removed to get the cable to the camera install position. You can see the clip configuration in the 2nd picture. Trim tool made this easy.

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Two pieces of trim on the right side interior trunk. I loosened these (did not remove totally) in order to access the waterproof wire loom. Note there is a T20 hex screw head I removed from the upper trim piece to give me access to the bottom side of the wire loom.

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I bought some 24" Zip ties thinking "I'll never use these but I need them." One week later, I used this white zip tie to snake the camera cable through the wire loom powering the rear deck lid. I don't know of another tool that would have enabled this. Perhaps you're better with disconnecting and reconnecting wires than I am. My wife's hands were able to fit where the zip tie is and find her way to the opening of the wire loom.

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This was a must-do for us. There are a series of little white clips that keep the waterproof loom in place. I gently pushed in on these under the think rubber gasket material, freeing both ends of the loom. I don't think we could have snaked the cable through without doing this step. Luckily, nothing broke.


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Another view of the clips on the waterproof loom.

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
More pictures:

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Taping the camera cable to the zip tie after we snaked the zip tie all the way through the wiring loom. We were generous with the amount of tape, thinking it would pull loose.


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This part was the hardest part of the whole install. With both ends of the loom loose, you can work the cable up and through, keeping the waterproof wiring loom intact and letting the camera cable travel along with the rest of the rear lift gate wiring.

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I'd advise against snaking all the camera cable through the loom. We only snaked as much as we needed to reach the camera, and I stowed the rest behind the trim piece in the right trunk wall (zip tied in the photo).

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Last post with pictures: final install

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View from the driver's seat. Camera isn't visible for me.


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View from the passenger's seat. Note the wires for the power and the rear camera easily tucked under the front edge of the headliner.

And finally, a very unclear photo of the back camera install location, and another showing where I attached it. I put it on the trim instead of on the glass (of course, confirm you have a clear picture of what you're hoping to record before finalizing that location on the rear camera). BEST of LUCK with your installations!
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Hi,

I'd like to chime in here on a couple things.

1. The A-Pillar does indeed have a side curtain, and the A-Pillar requires Removal, to run a wire behind that curtain.

2. How did you route the B-Pillar?

3. Does the C-Pillar or D-Pillar have a side curtain in the XC90s? Like the A-Pillar, you cannot simply "tuck the wire". Into the trim - I don't own a 2022 XC60 and cannot find a schematic of where the airbags sit.

Corrections You need to Undertake:

Your rear camera needs to mount ON the rear windshield in between the rear defrost lines. The current position of the camera is going to have an obstructed view as a result of those defrost lines. You want this camera to capture plates and details, not obstructions. If the adhesive pad is too wide to place in between the defrost lines, you can trim it down to make it fit before mounting.

Parking Mode / Hardwire

Here's what I came across regarding your fuses in the glove compartment: Fuses under glovebox | Fuses | Maintenance and service | XC60 2022 Early | Volvo Support

Hardwire kits use a voltage cutoff for the battery.

12.6 = 100%
12.4 = 75%
12.2 = 50 %
12.0 = 25%
11.8 = 0 %

Hardwiring with a voltage cutoff will not kill your battery. It will shorten the life some since parking mode runs off the battery, but it will NOT kill it.

Try to see if any of the unused fuses are "HOT" when the car is off. None of the fuses listed in the manual seem like "Good Options" to tap into because they contain electronics or safety systems, which you need to avoid.

Fuse Taps: I've seen a lot of debate on this topic on whether fuses have polarity. Basically a dash camera uses about .5 amps. So it's a low voltage draw. Depending on the gauge of the wire o the hardwire kit, generally a 5 or 7.5 amp will go up top and the factory fuse on the bottom closest to the fuse box.

The argument for having the left leg hot is that should the dash camera have a problem, it'll trip the camera's fuse instead of tripping the vehicle's fuse. Thus protecting the camera and car itself. Whereas, if the right leg is hot, the cameras fuse runs in line with the vehicle. So if the camera has an issue, it'll end up tripping the vehicle's fuse instead of the fuse protecting the camera.



With a test light you need to pull out the fuse and poke one of the two legs till it lights up. The leg that lights up will be hot 12v, you might need to turn the key if its switched ACC/IGN.

There are two orientations/positions of using the fuse tap but either works for a low current draw of the dashcam.

Position A - the most common way used. It 'taps' before the factory fuse to create a new circuit. Its not recommended to put a high current load in this way as it will be possible exceed the factory wiring ampacity.

Position B - the new fuse runs inline after the factory fuse. The safe method as you will never exceed the factory wiring.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for chiming in! I appreciate your perspective and no doubt people will find it helpful.

Sorry if I wasn't clear on a few things; I found myself proceeding through the job without taking pictures of each step. A couple additional notes:
  • I did remove the A-pillar trim. Just an 8mm bolt under the small cover. Popped right off and gave me clearance to run the wire. It's an extra step but definitely one worth doing. The wire for power and the cable for the rear camera were both run underneath the airbag along the other factory-installed wires so as not to interfere with deployment.
  • There are airbags along the side--for each, I kept the rear camera cable behind the airbag and up against the steel of the car.
  • I confirmed my rear camera had a clear view before mounting it with adhesive; you raise a good point that I'll second--make sure you have a clear view of what you want to see before mounting either camera (front or rear). I can also confirm that I've looked at videos of front and rear post-install, and the view of the camera is unobstructed. The lines on the defrost were going to be covered somewhat, trimming left too little adhesive for my liking, and I have tint that I didn't want to mount to. Overall, I'm pleased with mounting location.
  • I did use a DC lighted tester for checking the fuse I was to use--49 was hot only when the car was on, which was what I was looking for.
  • My mindset around parking mode and hardwire kit shutoff: the hardwire kits are SUPPOSED to have a low voltage protection. I saw reviews (one is below) where people bench tested the kits (including MY KIT) and the camera stayed on down to 8 volts. It just wasn't worth it to me to bet on the $20 hardwire kit cutting off at 11.6 as it stated. Too many people with first hand experience of battery drainage for my liking. Would it be a problem for me? Probably not, just didn't take the chance.
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That’s some pro-level install work! I ended up using two Garmin Mini’s for my setup since they communicate wirelessly with each other vs needing a wire to run front-to-back.

Is it really necessary to take the pillars apart vs just running the cable around the windscreen? The curtain airbag opens towards the passenger window so having a wire tucked in there next to where the windscreen is glued shouldn’t matter I’d think.

I was able to run the wire rather invisibly around to the 12v outlet so only a few inches are exposed. The 12v outlet stays powered on for a bit after parking but it would be cool to wire into a fuse to be able to use full parking mode on the cam.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The curtain airbag opens towards the passenger window so having a wire tucked in there next to where the windscreen is glued shouldn’t matter I’d think.
Agreed. If I'm understanding you correctly that you tucked cables in by the windscreen on the front edge of the A-pillar, it should not cross the airbag at all. The airbag on my '22XC60 was on the trailing edge of the A-pillar, away from where I think you're talking about.
 

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That's nice. Great job.
Have you u checked FITCAMX ??
 

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Thanks for chiming in! I appreciate your perspective and no doubt people will find it helpful.

Sorry if I wasn't clear on a few things; I found myself proceeding through the job without taking pictures of each step. A couple additional notes:
  • I did remove the A-pillar trim. Just an 8mm bolt under the small cover. Popped right off and gave me clearance to run the wire. It's an extra step but definitely one worth doing. The wire for power and the cable for the rear camera were both run underneath the airbag along the other factory-installed wires so as not to interfere with deployment.
Great!

  • There are airbags along the side--for each, I kept the rear camera cable behind the airbag and up against the steel of the car.
Do you simply need to run the cable BEHIND the curtain along the headliner for B and C? I believe the D Pillar does need removed and contains an airbag similar to A Pillar. Chime in here if you don't mind.
  • I confirmed my rear camera had a clear view before mounting it with adhesive; you raise a good point that I'll second--make sure you have a clear view of what you want to see before mounting either camera (front or rear). I can also confirm that I've looked at videos of front and rear post-install, and the view of the camera is unobstructed. The lines on the defrost were going to be covered somewhat, trimming left too little adhesive for my liking, and I have tint that I didn't want to mount to. Overall, I'm pleased with mounting location.
Mind posting a screen shot from the rear camera? These cameras are meant to be wide angle, so I am curious to see how it doesn't have the defrost lines obstructing the view. As I said, the intent here is to mount direct to window. My windows are tinted too. To remove these, you use fishing line and "saw". Then get the goop off the tint. But I see your concern.

Just curious the view with how yours is mounted. [/quote]

  • I did use a DC lighted tester for checking the fuse I was to use--49 was hot only when the car was on, which was what I was looking for.
Important Point Here: A fuse that's hot when the car is on is known as "ACC (Accessory)." If you locate a second fuse that's ALWAYS on even when car is off, that's a Battery Fuse. So a 3 wire hardwire kit with voltage cutoff uses the Accessory Fuse to detect when car is running, and Battery fuse to detect when car is off and draw power. [/quote]

  • My mindset around parking mode and hardwire kit shutoff: the hardwire kits are SUPPOSED to have a low voltage protection. I saw reviews (one is below) where people bench tested the kits (including MY KIT) and the camera stayed on down to 8 volts. It just wasn't worth it to me to bet on the $20 hardwire kit cutting off at 11.6 as it stated. Too many people with first hand experience of battery drainage for my liking. Would it be a problem for me? Probably not, just didn't take the chance.
View attachment 163610
I'm looking up the Vantrue S1 Hardwiring Kit and the Literature is "confusing, but the guy from amazon has ZERO understanding about what's taking place.

Vantrue S1 Dash Cam 10ft Mini USB

Low Voltage Protection
Smart low voltage protection automatically shut off the power to your dash cam when the battery voltage drops to 11.6V(12V cars) or 23.2V(24V cars), thus preventing it draining the battery.

Explanation: Basically what Vantrue did is set the Voltage Cutoff to 11.6 (Dead Battery Status). The intent (nothing wrong with it) is to keep the camera running at all times while the car is started, even if the vehicle's battery is weak.

The hardwire kit from Vantrue is a 2 Wire Hardwire Kit.

1. Black Cable = Ground
2. Red = Connects to Accessory Fuse (Fuse active when car is started)

This hardwire kit has NO BATTERY wire (as in a 3 wire hardwire kit with parking mode).

Now if this were a 3 wire hardwire kit where you had a battery wire to permit parking mode, and Vantrue set it to 11.6 Volts ONLY, then I'd be pissed. Here it's irrelevant.

On this 2 wire hardwire kit (Accessory + Ground), the camera turns off when the car turns off.
 
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I looked hard at the Garmin Minis--cool little cameras. I didn't know they can work in pairs!
This was the big selling point for them for me. On the downside the v1 of these things were awful and would randomly stop recording but v2 seems reliable so far.
 

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That’s some pro-level install work! I ended up using two Garmin Mini’s for my setup since they communicate wirelessly with each other vs needing a wire to run front-to-back.

Is it really necessary to take the pillars apart vs just running the cable around the windscreen? The curtain airbag opens towards the passenger window so having a wire tucked in there next to where the windscreen is glued shouldn’t matter I’d think.

I was able to run the wire rather invisibly around to the 12v outlet so only a few inches are exposed. The 12v outlet stays powered on for a bit after parking but it would be cool to wire into a fuse to be able to use full parking mode on the cam.
It's absolute 100% necessary to remove the A Pillar on every vehicle with side curtains. DO NOT under any circumstances TUCK the wire OVER the A-Pillar. It will OBSTRUCT the curtain from properly deploying in an accident. The wire goes BEHIND the curtain, never over it.

Notice what happens when you CROSS the side curtain (obstruct it) vs. removing A-Pillar and routing wire BEHIND the curtain.

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It's absolute 100% necessary to remove the A Pillar on every vehicle with side curtains. DO NOT under any circumstances TUCK the wire OVER the A-Pillar. It will OBSTRUCT the curtain from properly deploying in an accident. The wire goes BEHIND the curtain, never over it.
Right but my wire doesn’t go over the a-pillar, it’s just resting along the windscreen seam. On my phone but here’s an attempt to draw it.

Based on your photo this routing wouldn’t impact the curtain airbag as far as I can tell?

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
On this 2 wire hardwire kit (Accessory + Ground), the camera turns off when the car turns off.
I'm learning! Thanks for this. I was assuming that if I used the fuse tap on a "battery" fuse, then the low voltage protection of the hardwire kit's "little black box" would supposedly kick in and shut down the camera on low voltage. But with your explanation, I'm guessing the black box in the hardwire kit is just a voltage step down?
 

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Right but my wire doesn’t go over the a-pillar, it’s just resting along the windscreen seam. On my phone but here’s an attempt to draw it.

Based on your photo this routing wouldn’t impact the curtain airbag as far as I can tell?

View attachment 163631
You are correct. Your post made it sound like you tucked wire over A pillar. Your install is fine then.
I'm learning! Thanks for this. I was assuming that if I used the fuse tap on a "battery" fuse, then the low voltage protection of the hardwire kit's "little black box" would supposedly kick in and shut down the camera on low voltage. But with your explanation, I'm guessing the black box in the hardwire kit is just a voltage step down?
I have Viofo Cameras in my car. Here's an example of a 3 wire hardwire kit. The Connections are Specific to the manufacturer and things are not uniformly color coded across brands.

Viofo uses Black for Ground. Red for Battery. And Yellow for Accessory. Thus a 3 wire hardwire kit. The Accessory Circuit detects when the vehicle is turned on and runs off the engine. Since the fuse is ONLY hot when the car is started. After the Accessory Circuit loses Power, the Battery circuit takes over and runs off the battery itself. Thus, permitting the car to run parking mode and aptly named a 3 Wire Hardwire Kit.

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Very confusing indeed. One illustration says connect red to ACC; very next illustration says to find an always on fuse.

View attachment 163654 View attachment 163655
Black is Ground. Vantrue isn't one of the greatest brands out there. You can tell by their half assed literature that these cameras are on the lower spectrum of quality.

Vantrue's guide states the red wire is accessory. If this is true, then their hardwire kit is no batter than using a cigarette lighter. Since the camera only detects power when the acessory circuit is activated. Being this fuse loses power when the car goes off, the camera shuts down without parking mode.

Then in the next sentence Vantrue Advertises Parking Mode: Apparently stating the Red Wire can go to the battery.....But here's the real this company SUCKS KICKER

Compatible 12 – 24V Vehicles

This hardwire kit accepts voltage from any type of vehicles runs on 12 – 24V, works perfect for car, truck, bus, suvs, or big rig for continuous power.

Rectangle Font Watch Liquid Cylinder

....Drum Roll

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Low Voltage Protection
Smart low voltage protection automatically shut off the power to your dash cam when the battery voltage drops to 11.6V(12V cars) or 23.2V(24V cars), thus preventing it draining the battery.

And here's the KICKER

This camera has a 11.6 Voltage Cutoff. So if you ACTUALLY can hook the red wire to battery, the camera will run UNTIL your battery has ZERO JUICE. Remember, 11.8V = Dead Battery. So if this thing doesn't shut off until 11.6, you're walking out to a Tow Truck.

Again, this company is on the lower spectrum of dash cam makers. Their literature reflects this fact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Mind posting a screen shot from the rear camera? These cameras are meant to be wide angle, so I am curious to see how it doesn't have the defrost lines obstructing the view.
Okay, you were right, and I was wrong. I “confirmed” by looking at the rear camera videos on the camera, but when I looked at the actual files on a computer, there was obstruction. I’ve moved it to the back glass, and I tried to mount between the defrost lines and aim it to avoid obstructed view. I’ll post an image soon with the new view. The old view was…not ideal!
 
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