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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering which rear end my '67 122s would have. Want to get a new r&p so I can cruise on the highway a little easier...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (tdskip)

I have an M41 trans here with a good working O/D unit but the synchro on 4th is shot. Rebuilding these things costs too much. Getting a r&p set is cheap and that's the goal here. Eventually it'll get a T5 engine with a Tremec TKO trans and 9" Ford rear end so dumping money now is pointless.
 

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Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (akaturbo)

Should be a Dana 30 in '67. Check the diameter of the axle tubes -- 2.5" is a Dana 30, 2.25" is a Spicer 27.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (Phil Singher)

Thanks Phil, I'll check it out... Hopefully it's the 30, lot easier to get parts.
 

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Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (akaturbo)

Is there a chart showing what years had which diff ?
are these rear ends strong other than the tapered axles ?
(thinking I could convert to standard ford housing ends etc.)
 

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Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (nonhog)

Far as I can tell, the Dana 30 phased in during the '66 model year production. It does not correspond directly to the change in rear suspension.

The rear end is plenty strong except for the tapered axles. You can use Ford drums, but you have to have axles made. It's been done a number of times (but not by me).
 

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Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (Phil Singher)

I am considering adding the Ford rear brakes and housing ends and maybe making the track a bit narrower just in case the 68 ends up with more horsepower

may have to give up the rear seat or mod it ?
 

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Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (nonhog)

The easier, and probably cheaper, solution is to put in the rear end from an 1800E or ES. It's a bolt-in for a '68. You get disk brakes and very strong axles to boot. You won't break one of those, and limited slip is readily available (which it's not for the drum brake Dana 30s)...



That's one we put in an Amazon last summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (Phil Singher)

Ditched the r&p idea... Just gonna drive it as is for another 6 weeks. Picked up a 31 spline Ford 9" to swap over instead. Will be re-working the 4 link to get longer bars using rod ends as well. Possibly mini-tubs to fit some 10"+ wide wheels out back...
 

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Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (akaturbo)

I have a p1800e. should I just leave this rearend in my car if im gonna put some serious hp to the wheels. Im putting in a 2jz straight 6 from a supra. gonna be around 450 hp easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (pookybear)

Quote, originally posted by pookybear »
So, how much was the rebuild on the M41 setup you have going to cost...ballpark, of course?

Sorry, haven't been here in a while... The synchros alone are $75 each. Just not worth it for a (in my opinion) junk transmission.
 

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Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (akaturbo)

Just curious, any detailed threads on the Ford brake change. I've read a couple things on sites but no details on how-to or part #'s
pictures would be good too.
thanks !
 

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Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (Phil Singher)

Quote, originally posted by Phil Singher »
The easier, and probably cheaper, solution is to put in the rear end from an 1800E or ES. It's a bolt-in for a '68.

Do you know if the earlier bodies are cross compatible with the later brackets? As in, with some welding, could a disc brake axle be fairly easily adapted into a '66? Or is the body significantly different?
 

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Re: Dana 27 or Dana 30? (LloydDobler)

The graceful way to put a later axle in an earlier car is to make up some hybrid trailing arms. Use the later, tubular arms, cut off one end, and graft the front tip of the earlier, stamped arms onto them.
 

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That sounds easy enough, I wouldn't even cut up the old trailing arm, I'd just graft a stud of the same size on to the end of the tubular arm.

So are we lucky enough that the general axes of the trailing arms are close enough that this works without modifying the body or axle? You've seen it done?
 
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