SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
dalecarlian’s ‘01 V70XC build thread

Hello,

Thought I’d start a build thread for any ensuing work to be done this summer as I’ve enjoyed reading through everyone else’s quite a bit.

Here is a bit of information about me. I am a grad student in Richmond, Virginia. I drive delivery on the side, thus I make very little money but get to spend all the time I could ever want in my wagon. I am NOT an experienced auto mechanic but primarily have tinkered with electronics, two-stroke tuning, and bicycles (I ride road).

The car was my mother’s, purchased certified refurbished in 2007 and handed to me in 2014 after her ‘13 XC70 purchase (sadly an anemic base model 3.2). It is the only car I have ever owned, and I drove it across the States and Canada in 2015 after leaving high school. Maintenance has not been superb however everything runs quite well, and it has no damning issues. I have been a bit afraid to work on it but taking apart lots of other engineered things has given me the nuts to start taking some charge so to speak.

Before you lament my ‘01, the transmission was replaced with that of an ‘03 at 100k miles in 2010. I am currently at 167k.

Recently it has had:
-PCV rebuild
-timing belt
-new oil pan
-some cheapo LED headlights

I should be set, right? Well no, it actually failed inspection due to front rotors. When you drive every day, sometimes you don’t notice your brakes getting softer until you fail inspection. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ An excellent first repair goal.

So far my plans are:
-replace front rotors with StopTech Sport 305mm [5/10/20]
-tie rods [5/14/20]
-VIDA setup [5/14/20]
-IPD front end links [5/24/20]
-coolant thermostat [5/16/20]
-new power steering reservoir [5/15/2020]
-engine mounts [corona]
-axles [corona]
-IPD skid plate
-Sachs front struts, XC90 spring seats [Fall 2020]
-Xemodex ETM [Fall 2020]
-new brake calipers/hoses [corona]
-4500k white hid low beams (slim hid from ViVA)[corona]
-fog light un-delete [9/8/20]

-new wheels, tires, rear wheel spacers (15mm)
everyone seems to change this first? my tellus wheels are 7in wide already and that’s good enough for now...

-TCV
-silicon vacuum lines [9/25/20]

-auto meter boost gauge [9/27/20]
the ipd “R” one is just cheesy imo; my car is not an R, never will be

-oil catch can [10/7/20]
i want to touch my pcv as infrequently as (responsibly) possible...this one was a cheapo china one

-dedicated transmission cooler, likely an oil cooler
bigtimemcalpine has scared me off using the XC90 one

-recirc bov out of curiousity
bov=less turbo wear? or maybe i’m just naïve

-16T HPT, like a T5

-ipd top torque mount bushing [9/21/20]
this was simply cheaper than powerflex

-ipd strut mount conversion [9/25/20]
idc about vibration in my comfy worn-in leather seats.

-do88 intercooler
soon...

-fill the engine bay with shiny silicon because my plastick is all fkd (the process has already begun)

these will be accomplished in a relatively short timeframe due to not wanting to waste money on tuning
-ipd V70R downpipe or eurosport because it’s cheaper
-ipd catback or eurosport because it’s cheaper
-blue or green injectors idk probably green because green is the color all the fast kids have
-bigger maf and probably a different air intake mostly because the air box is big and i want room for my senseless extras
guidance needed here

...to be continued

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,078 Posts
Looks nice!

Skip the IPD bars, you only need a rear bar upgrade anyway. The 22mm from the R wagons is 8672168 and $150 new from volvo.

Get an 05+ PS resevoir & hose, they dont leak. Used is cheap.

Sway bar end links eithe rmeyle hd or MOOG K7342 front MOOG K80425 rear (greasable).

316/308mm calipers/rotors form base xc90s make a very nice brake upgrade that clears everything and doesnt break the bank.

P2R model engine mounts are recommended.

The better T5/R tcv is 30670449 (pierburg).

The poly conversion/insertion of the upper engine mount bar anchorages is usually better than full solid on a p2 auto.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/503...tabilizer-poly-bushing-kit-ipd-110933-8666204
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Looks nice!

Skip the IPD bars, you only need a rear bar upgrade anyway. The 22mm from the R wagons is 8672168 and $150 new from volvo.

Get an 05+ PS resevoir & hose, they dont leak. Used is cheap.

Sway bar end links eithe rmeyle hd or MOOG K7342 front MOOG K80425 rear (greasable).

316/308mm calipers/rotors form base xc90s make a very nice brake upgrade that clears everything and doesnt break the bank.

P2R model engine mounts are recommended.

The better T5/R tcv is 30670449 (pierburg).

The poly conversion/insertion of the upper engine mount bar anchorages is usually better than full solid on a p2 auto.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/503...tabilizer-poly-bushing-kit-ipd-110933-8666204
All very helpful information. I already have my new ps reservoir which is from an 06, front end links, my engine mounts, and some new stock size rotors, so I reckon I’ll use what I have and next round go for your suggestions there.

I will certainly be getting the R anti-sway bar in that case as IPD is a bit overpriced for those and I’ve replaced the front recently. How does the T5/R tcv compare to a porsche or ipd kit? I should probably do the lines when I do that job.

Thanks for the information in this thread and the other. For the time being, I’ve opted to keep the car at stock height.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,078 Posts
Same tcv as the "porsche" and the ipd one is a MAC valve which is incompatible with me7 engine managment aka dont use it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
650 Posts
The S60R rear bar is a little more common, and the ~ 2 mm lowering. diameter makes it easier to slip past a rear spring when installing,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Purchased a vida and also some of them front strut assemblies today but they are on backorder for like a month. RIP...can't wait to get out of the maintenance catchup mode and start having fun/confidence in my car. Tomorrow I'll be doing tie rods, front end links, and brake rotors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Still trying to do the brake rotors. Cannot remove the caliper bracket bolts because they are rusted in. I have no business working on this car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,078 Posts
Just need a long breaker bar with a jack handle slipped over it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
166 Posts
That's what did it for three of them. I stripped the fourth and will be using a bolt extractor tomorrow.
Been there... done that. I don’t want to even get into the mess I’ve created with my S70’s brake line nut going to the rear caliper. Point being is, stick with it and take advantage of loaner tools from Advance Auto, Autozone, etc. Also, heat and PB Blaster are your friends. I question what the hell I’m doing every time a pop the hood or jack up the car. These forums are priceless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Anyone have a part number or link for the 305mm caliper brackets front L and R?

Ended up getting the rotors on but need some new brackets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Anyone have a part number or link for the 305mm caliper brackets front L and R?

Ended up getting the rotors on but need some new brackets.


P2 T5s came with 305s from the factory, usually not too hard to find in a JY.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,144 Posts
That's what did it for three of them. I stripped the fourth and will be using a bolt extractor tomorrow.
Or you could save yourself two hours and just go remove a whole hub and spindle assy at the wreckyard. You will be drilling that thing forever. Heck you could prob find the 305 brackets while you are there!


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
At this point, I've been working on a little bit every day while I borrow a family member's car for my lunchtime shifts.

Right now, I am in the middle of tie rods on either side. I've removed the outer tie rods and have been fiddling with the clamp-style tool trying to get the inners out. Might end up using a tie rod fork, as my girlfriend's brother suggested that approach and offered the tool.

Rotors are on, I've ordered some Centric T5 caliper assemblies w brackets and new brake lines as mine are worse for wear and saw the opportunity to replace as I am about to bleed them anyway. Don't have any open junkyards near me right now.

Also started working on the engine mounts as I waited for PB Blaster to break a few bolts loose for me today.

So far everything has been pretty smooth -- other than my old rotors, they were quite pitted. Looking forward to getting a big chunk done this weekend. I realize this thread is somewhat boring right now, but as I undertake more interesting projects, I'll post pictures for redundancy of information on the forum. These sorts of projects are quite similar on all cars. Thanks to all of you for filling me in on some odds and ends as I move forward.

@madmattd Thanks for the bracket PNs, ended up not going that route.

@bigtimemcalpine I found your video on differential fluid changes very helpful and informative and will refer to it when I get there myself. The bolt actually just came out after waiting for PB Blaster to work overnight. Anticlimactic, I know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
For cv axles — are Cardone aftermarket replacements just remanufactured blue box axles? I heard this repeated elsewhere and was wondering if this is the case. The Cardone axles are significantly cheaper at rockauto than FCP’s GKN axles, and while I know many of you work at FCP, it seems like $400 for an axle is a little outrageous. At least tell me why it’s worth the expense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,144 Posts
dalecarlian’s ‘01 V70XC build thread

Hi Dale - best advice I can give you is to find the nearest wreckyard that ideally is a you-pick type. Don’t buy aftermarket is my advice. Just head to the wreckyard and you’ll find that 95% of Volvo’s there have perfectly good axles that will last the lifetime of your vehicle. Finding a yard nearby is guaranteed to save you hundred’s if not a few thousand over time and will make owning this vehicle super affordable.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Hi Dale - best advice I can give you is to find the nearest wreckyard that ideally is a you-pick type. Don’t buy aftermarket is my advice. Just head to the wreckyard and you’ll find that 95% of Volvo’s there have perfectly good axles that will last the lifetime of your vehicle. Finding a yard nearby is guaranteed to save you hundred’s if not a few thousand over time and will make owning this vehicle super affordable.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I agree, and I used to be able to do this with things like tailight housings but corona had them closed. I just remembered that things are opening up here again for better or worse and I should be able to go soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
During corona, I did a bunch of minor things to the car. I listed more of the repairs in the original post. I'll get some pictures after I do a couple more projects this fall. Can anyone recommend tips for ETM replacement?
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top