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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
but cleans up its wobble under power.<p>why??? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>1987 244 Non turbo 5spd Manual
 

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Re: Crankshaft Pully wobbles at idle (scuba602)

Harmonic balancer coming apart.<p>Assuming this car is a '90 245...<p><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPageHistory=category&numSearchStartRecord=0&strParents=69,258,465&P_ID=441&CAT_ID=465&V_ID=963" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/version....D=963</A><p><br>George Dill
 

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Re: Crankshaft Pully wobbles at idle (scuba602)

I've had the pulley/balancer come apart two or three times on my 240s over the years. The rubber ring between the concentric inner hub and outer pulley detaches, and then the outer pulley spins somewhat independently of the crankshaft. The usual symptom is a loud squeal that sounds like a belt slipping, especially when you are just engaging the clutch. If it slips too much, your alternator won't charge effectively, your water pump won't circulate coolant properly, your power steering will misbehave and your A/C won't work. (Other than those things, you could safely ignore it...)<p>But usually, I haven't seen it wobble so much. Yours may simply be especially badly separated, but I think it could be a sign that your accessories (alternator, power steering pump and A/C compressor if so equipped) are not lined up well, putting front-to-back tension on the crank pulley. So I would recommend that while you are in there replacing the crank pulley, you should take the extra time to replace the rubber accessory mount bushings which also deteriorate over time. Then when you get everything back together, all the pulleys should be properly aligned. Here is the IPD link for those:<br><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-200/Engine/Engine-Mechanical/Engine-Accessory-Mounting-Bushings/p-69-258-465-277" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-20...5-277</A>/<p>I will say that while replacing these inexpensive and simple in concept, it is kind of a pain in practice, especially for the A/C compressor mounting. You need to budget several hours to give yourself time to study the mountings, understand the various belt-tensioning mechanisms, find the right wrench and socket-extension combinations to get to all the bolts, etc.<p>Also for the crank pulley - if you don't have air tools and/or you really want to get the torque correct, then it helps a lot to have the crank-pulley holder tool when you remove and replace the front crank bolt. But with a manual car like yours, you can usually get away without it by leaving the car in (high) gear with the brake on. This is not as good as using the tool for several reasons, but it works. You can also use the rope-in-the-cylinder trick to lock up the engine, but the holder tool is better.<br>
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've already replaced the pulley with one that, by the naked eye and some muscle work, seems to be holding together - that is until I start the car. Would there be any other reason?
 

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Re: (scuba602)

You could try this: get a strobe light (a timing light would probably do) and point it at the pulley while the engine is idling and then with the engine at speed. Aim the light so you can see both the pulley bolt and the pulley outer rim at the same time, and try to eyeball both to see if the distance between both the bolt and outer pulley rim remains constant. BTW, do you also have a front oil seal leak? This may tell us something about the crankshaft. Also, the pulley may not seem to be wobbling at speed because the increased accessary belt load on the pulley could cause the rubber damper section to deform just enough to that it seems to run true. The best test, though would be if you could get a solid pulley that will fit on your crank and see if it wobbles too, both at idle and at speed.
 

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Re: (scuba602)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>scuba602</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd love to think I put it on correctly</TD></TR></TABLE><p>OK to make this clear - you did recognize that the pulley and crankshaft are keyed to keep the pulley from slipping on the shaft? - when you fit the pulley you need to rotate it and have it drop into place (i.e. ensure that the key slot and the key boss line up) - then tighten the bolt to spec. If this doesn't ring a bell, then <B>do not drive</B> the car until you loosen the bolt, get the pulley re-seated properly and re-tightened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK guys! Yes the last poster was correct- I had it 180* out from normal.. The "mechanic" who had it before me had done the same, and I was just as lazy! The key I put in was completely wrong.<p>I found out by going thru my wrecking yards! Took 2 or 3 off and *pooF* there's the proof!<p><br>Thanks yall!
 
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