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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been lurking while I rehab my 66. B18D. It has been sitting for 10 years it got parked when it started leaking at the water pump and clutch hydraulics. I have taken care of some rust issues and cleaned and reworked the carbs. I removed the distributor and cleaned it up changed out the fuel pump water pump new brushes in the generator took out the gas tank and resealed it changed the oil plugs wires points condenser rotor cap rotor. Got everything back together today and put in a new battery and went to bump it over to make sure everything was working and connected. It had turned over by hand without issue and it cranked over fine for a few bumps so I put a gallon of gas I had in and wanted to see if it would pull it up to the fuel pump and filter. After a couple of seconds of cranking it jammed to a stop It didn’t sound violent but like it jammed against something solid and no more turning over of course I stoped and went to investgate. Turning the crank by hand with the belt off to eliminate the possibility of the generator or the water pump pully being the issue it comes to a dead stop I can go backwards a half a turn of the crank to a a dead stop then back. It is late and I won’t be able to crawl back under the car for a week but I need things to ponder where should I start looking could the starter be jammed? What to do first?
Kent
 

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Oil or water in a cylinder? Take all spark plugs out and try turning by hand. It should turn, and you should see fluid coming out of the spark plug hole.

Of course, after the car sits for a while, whatever fluid in the cylinder may have already drained into the crank case ...

If that's the case, may be you have a bad head gasket. Not too bad.
 

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Welcome to Swedespeed, Kent.

Once you get back with the car confirm that the flywheel/clutch disk connection has not frozen up.

Did the distributor go back in smoothly?

Thanks.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replys I will check if I get any change with the spark plugs out and if I get any fulid, it just got water introduced today for the first time in years, the oil has been in for the whole time but changed just recently.
I thought about the flywheel being frozen but I could crank it over by hand before i tried it with the starter and it did crank over briefly before it locked up also no jumping forward when i cranked it over but the brakes could be frozen. would a frozen flywheel alow the crank to turn a half a turn?
The distributor seemed to go back in fine but my thought was to remove everything that I have touched one by one to see if any make a change distributor, fuel pump. It may take a few days to get to but I will keep everyone up to date as I go.
Kent
 

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Fuel pump - how thick is the (new?) spacer and how many (new?) gaskets did you use. Are the fuel pump mounting bolts OE?

George Dill
 

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If you can go backwards by hand, and then bump, and you are locked forward. That is generally one of two things. Fluild Locked or Connecting Rod. Being that the car hasnt run to spin a rod, and you had already been turning the motor over with out running, I would probably go more toward the fluid lock.

Did this happen after you replaced the fuel pump, and tried to start it, or did you turn it over a couple of revolutions by hand prior to the repairs? Or did you have the fuel pump on it for a bit of cranking, and then it locked? If you cranked for bit with the new fuel pump, without locking down immediately, you could actually be pumping gas right into the cylinders, because the floats may not be closing.. I have had this happen on several occassions when cars have sat, and it is very common.. Normally if the floats are not operating properly, and your fuel pump has primed the fuel bowls, the fuel can continue to siphon into the cylinders. If you cranked on it for a bit, and then walked away to do something else, the siphon affect will continue, and you can find the motor locking down when you go back to cranking. If the motor locked immediately after the fuel pump install, then it is probably the fuel pump install.

Best way to isolate what it could be is this.. Take out the spark plugs as suggested, and then try to crank it.. If that doesnt do it, then you might take a look at the fuel pump install, because that could lock it up also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Fuel pump change was done after my original hand cranking of the engine it is an older style fuel pump i had in my stash it has the old school glass top the spacer looked the same size with 2 gaskets but I cannot swear that the arm was the same size. I put it in because the other pump was using an in line fuel regulator that had been on since my father had the car many years ago I thought that the glass top one was the original one but it could have been one mmy dad picked up as a spare (he is no longer around to ask) mounting bolts OE or new same length I need to check.
There had been no attempt to start the car before the fuel pump was changed and the tank was completely empty as were all the lines and carbs when I first gave it a first bump to see if the starter and everything worked. then added about a gal of gas I had to see if it would crank and pull gas to the fuel pump. I cranked for only 2 bouts of about 4 seconds each just short durrations when it clunked like it was hitting something solid and I stopped cranking and tryed it by hand. No gas had made it to the pre filter or the pump at this point. I disconnected the belt and verified there was no issue with water pump pulley or the generator.
And I can back up almost exactly one half a complete rotation of the crank pulley to a dead stop then back forward the same amount so I can go forward and back that amount.
I hope tonight I can check some things It may be the easy thing to do is to just pull the fuel pump and see if that clears it up.
Kent
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update; I had a short amount of time to get under the hood so I pulled the fuel pump and cranked it over by hand no change still hit a solid stop, pulled the plugs ditto no change. I am leaning toward a locked up flywheel I released the emergency brake and tried to get the car to move and the back brakes are locked up. Out of time tonight but Wednesday I will pull the brakes on the back and clean them up so I can check if it is the flywheel locked up. Question: I did not use the starter to crank things over with the plugs out not wanting the extra tourque to damage anything so is turning the engine over by hand enough to break up hydro lock in a cylinder and get the fluid to drain or does it need the extra push from the starter?


Kent
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh, George it does have the correct spacer and two gaskets on the fuel pump, I do have new gaskets on order and I think I am going to go back to the original pump that was on the car, but it seems that is not part of this particular problem.
Kent
 

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Yes, plugs out is enough to vent any fluid that's in the cylinders by hand. If it was hydrolocked you should see liquid pouring out of the spark plug hole instead of mechanical lock.

Are you in neutral while trying to start? If not you should be. That'll rule out the flywheel, unless the actual input shaft of the transmission is locked up.
 

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As others said, moving the engine slowly with a wrench and spark plugs out, would easily squeeze out any fluids. Its good news that this is not the problem, and your engine is likely sound (although the locked up brakes and flywheel may be harder to deal with than a head gasket).

You said the original fuel pump had a pressure regulator. You might need this again, unless the proper spacers can reduce the fuel pressure. But a regulator is also an easy way to resolve this problem of excessive pressure, especially if you already have it (and its probably already adjusted).
 
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