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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last weekend my son was hoovering the carpits and realized: it was wet and had smell of coolant in our 2001 S60; coolant is leaking slowly, only minor volume per week - but he found finally the source!

Googling the Net and got this great video for S80 by Robert
Removed the trim panels (under the wheel and next to the seat): the same view like in the S80.



Unfortunatelly, not just the connections wet, but under the heater core some coolant is dropping. Its the original unit (built in 2001); I was advised: it must be replaced very soon.

I will order the rerplacement heater core and the O-rings today.
Any input could be great!
 

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Hopefully someone else confirms this, but I believe that you have to turn the heater onto full heat before you remove the core to avoid breaking the arms for blend doors. Also, if I'm remembering correctly, removing the brake light switch makes it easier to remove the core.
 

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Hopefully someone else confirms this, but I believe that you have to turn the heater onto full heat before you remove the core to avoid breaking the arms for blend doors. Also, if I'm remembering correctly, removing the brake light switch makes it easier to remove the core.
I wouldn't recommend that method. Wouldn't want to let the core loose with HOT engine coolant entering the cabin. I've always drain coolant, pulled a heater hose, and blown as much of the coolant out as i can. Then release the core into a large trash bag to catch any residual coolant before soaking the floor.
 

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Doesn't coolant circulate through the core regardless of if the heat was used or not? Either way, do the job when the car is cold and don't break the plastic/metal arms above the pipes going into the core.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thx a lot, guys!

Yes, others proposed similar steps:
1. START the engine
2. SET full heat and max ventillation
3. STOP the engine suddenly: it will help not to destroy the blend door arms.
4. The coolant also could be drained after the heater hose connectors removal by twisting the outer ring counter-clockwise and blowing out the coolant.

Some useful instructions:
1. step-by-step: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=41259&start=28#p270316
2. Twisting counterclockwise and disconnecting the heater hose connector in the engine bay as a first step

EDIT

Spareparts are arrived:
2x O-rings (black ones)
2x metal clips (OEM VOLVO)
1x Nissens heater core



EDIT

Today I gave a try for the replacement, but for my body shape (not a small one) seems to me a very painfull job - and my ribs also complained! :)
So I was collecting further useful hints:
1. Disconect the battery.
2. Removal the driver's side seat will create me much for room for the work. Proposed lie on the back during the process.
3. An old towell will serve well, even a plastic waste bag is a good idea to collect th outflowing coolant
4. The most PITA is the new clip imserting back, but a 180 degree position could help a lot.
5. The O-ring could seated in the heater core instead of pulling on the tube before inserting the tube back to the core.

I will try to do it this weekend - any further input could be great!
 

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Sounds like you have the plan and it ain't hard to do. the worst part is the mess of coolant under the carpet. It is sticky and messy to clean up the right way. Make sure ya have a shop vac handy and a bunch of rags. I hated that part of doing one. And ya really have to clean it up right or your going to smell that **** forever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thx for the positive force in this matter, chefricky! :)
I found a great VOLVO mechanic: he will do it for an acceptable price in his garage around early December.

EDIT
The replacement has done yesterday by professional way by a VOLVO mechanic: he sold me this car in April. This guy has a properly equipped private garage, lot of good discussions and friendly price. This week he has already replaced a heatar core (Nissens made as well: this quality is OK).



He explained: not only the brake switch must be moved away, but the steering coloumn as well. Preventing the spilling out lot of coolant: he closed the inlet and outlet rubber hoses in the engine bay at the firewall by 2 clmps. The whole procedure took 3 hours.

The old radiator had leakage at the connection surface between the metal core and the plastic end-caps. The O-rings (black ones) were flat and worn.

The challange: the floor carpit cleaning to wash out the remaining coolant.

EDIT
The driver's side floor carpet succesfully took out and cleaned by high pressure water - flushed a lot of foam and coolant. No sweet smell anymore in the cabin!





Just waiting for drying - this is the hardest part at winter time. The carpet is easy, but the foam is challanging...

This job was much easy as expected: driver's seat (only front bolts) and both side trim panels and the rocker panel removed, carefully pulled the carpet (especially around the hood opener). Found coolant residue underneath of it.

Installation back everything:







 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just an update after 2 months: no coolant loss anymore.
 
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