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How bad is this? Should I replace is asap?

There is a small hairline crack at the top of my reservoir and I see coolant bubbling very little when the engine is running.
 

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I literally just replaced my coolant expansion tank because of this problem! With the summer coming up replace it. FCP has the best price because they offer free shipping, http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-expansion-tank-c30-c70-s40-v50-genuine-30776151

You might want to get a coolant flush while your at it, you have to drain enough coolant to replace the tank anyways. It is a common problem :thumbdown: damm volvo's
 

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yes, replace it as you dont want your tank to essplode leaving you coolantless. it's a straightforward swap and as d3 says it's a good time for a flush. i think we are all at the time when the plastic has become brittle over the years so i expect more and more of us will be in the same boat.
 

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Someone should do a write-up for this procedure!
 

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Worst comes to worst and you don't have time, get some permatex plastic weld or their plastic tank repair kit. Its a temp fix that ended up being permanent on a beater I had years ago.
 

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Yeah I'll do this asap. Thanks guys. Noticed the coolant level is higher than before too now(when the engine was warm). Guess because of the lost pressure in the system
 

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Yeah I'll do this asap. Thanks guys. Noticed the coolant level is higher than before too now(when the engine was warm). Guess because of the lost pressure in the system
Be sure to take pics and do a proper write up for us! :)
 

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this happened to me, replace ASAP..
when its hot it starts to bubble and pressure comes out like you said and you start loosing coolant and that is dangerous for your engine ...
 

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Did mine a year or so ago, easy and quick job. Fairly common due to expansion and contraction of the plastic.
 

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I found this thread via google looking up to see if this was a common problem, and turns out, it is. I hate to go gravedigging here, but, wouldn't it be better to find a non-oem version of the tank, or are the new OEM replacements better and not prone to this defect?
 

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I found this thread via google looking up to see if this was a common problem, and turns out, it is. I hate to go gravedigging here, but, wouldn't it be better to find a non-oem version of the tank, or are the new OEM replacements better and not prone to this defect?
I don't believe there is an aftermarket solution however some parts wear down over time so oem should be fine. 50 bucks is reasonable, look into FCPeuro for the cheapest replacement. good luck!
 

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Isn't there metal ones sold for the euro ford focus St? I always wondered if they would work. One reason I never got one to test besides my stocker is fine, is I like to see my coolent level
 

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I had the same problem. I tried a temporary fix with JB Weld. Didn't work. I've ordered a replacement tank from FCP. Hopefully it'll be easy enough for me to fix.
 

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Just got done swapping mine out. It was caught during inspection when I was getting a battery. I used the Uro 30776151 to replace the OEM. Didn't need to drain the coolant.

Remove the 2 top hoses (they like to stick - get a hose pulling tool to help).

Pull the reservoir up off the 2 mounts (like when you do the upper motor mount swap).

Use a Solo cup or other small container, tilt the can towards the front of the car, remove coolant through the upper 2 hose nipples.

Remove the rear clamp/hose (it'll dribble a little) and pull it out.

Reinsert new container into rear hose, apply clamp, then mount it.

Reconnect 2 upper/front hoses.

It took about 1 qt of mix to refill to just above MIN. (used BMW factory coolant - same G-48 as Volvo (9434699-6), just blue (Roommate had some left over from his E46 ownership)).

Note: It is said that Zerex recommends that the G-05 coolant is a suitable substitute (it's green). The G-48 is also available by Motorex for $20/QT at some motorcycle places ($$$!!!!).

Cleaned the scale off of the cap o-ring, put the cap back in.

Bam, done. Quite easy.
 

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Just got done swapping mine out. It was caught during inspection when I was getting a battery. I used the Uro 30776151 to replace the OEM. Didn't need to drain the coolant.

Remove the 2 top hoses (they like to stick - get a hose pulling tool to help).

Pull the reservoir up off the 2 mounts (like when you do the upper motor mount swap).

Use a Solo cup or other small container, tilt the can towards the front of the car, remove coolant through the upper 2 hose nipples.

Remove the rear clamp/hose (it'll dribble a little) and pull it out.

Reinsert new container into rear hose, apply clamp, then mount it.

Reconnect 2 upper/front hoses.

It took about 1 qt of mix to refill to just above MIN. (used BMW factory coolant - same G-48 as Volvo (9434699-6), just blue (Roommate had some left over from his E46 ownership)).

Note: It is said that Zerex recommends that the G-05 coolant is a suitable substitute (it's green). The G-48 is also available by Motorex for $20/QT at some motorcycle places ($$$!!!!).

Cleaned the scale off of the cap o-ring, put the cap back in.

Bam, done. Quite easy.
Hi, going to be doing this today. Will update using your procedure with pics. I'm getting a lot of coolant loss aand it's making my engine mount look green.
 

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Have some spider web cracks on my coolant reservoir which i put some epoxy type stuff on as a temp fix, havent checked on it since i did that two weeks ago. Going to replace it asap though, anyone try out the aluminum tanks linked above? Would be nice to not have to replace it in another 100k miles.
 

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I would suggest grabbing a set of coolant hose clamps and pinching off the hoses prior to removal. That's what i do and coolant loss is minimal in most cases.
 

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this happened to me a few months back.. on my way home from work and I stop at a gas station for a drink and as I start walking back towards my car I notice some liquid coming out the bottom, I pop the hood and a geyser of coolant starts shooting out onto the street and all over my engine bay :( Once the pressure faded (and all my coolant was gone) I could see it was coming from a tiny hairline crack that I probably wouldn't have noticed otherwise. Drove it very carefully home and replaced the reservoir which turned out to be pretty frustrating, trying to get those clips off the lines and slicing my hand open on the edge of the engine bay.. but its nice to know that it should be good for another 6-8 years!
 
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