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Discussion Starter #1
The plastic trim around the rear window on my 1999 is deteriorating into little pieces and falling out.
Bought a trim piece and wonder if any one has had the problem and what they did to fix it. Does the window have to come out?
 

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Interior or exterior trim?



or

 

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Sadly to install the black outside molding/trim correctly, the window has to come out. Its a expensive fix to a problem that will return again in another 2-3 year it you can't remoe the window. I've gone down this road already. My remedy was to remove the old trim and replace it with black silcone sealant. If you can take your time it will turn out nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, it's the outside molding. The new one is different from what is on the car, it's three pieces and the new is one piece. I've had the car for 10 years and it just happened, and it was keep outside.
 

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I second the black silicone idea. I got all the chunks out that I could and then I bought a little plastic scraper thing that gives a flat "bead" for the silicone and pushes it as deep as I could get it. Clean it up after a day with a razor blade.
 

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I did that replacement a few years ago and did not have to remove the window. Part used to be cheap, they raised 3x or 4x more recently.
 

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How did you do it?

I have some black sealant, been meaning to do this fix for a while lol
 

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Just a tip for silicone style goopy type sealant, the very best way to get a nice looking bead is to use MASKING TAPE! I never heard of this trick until I read it in the home depot book when I went to caulk my kitchen counter to the wall. It works like a dream, you can do the typical spooge it everywhere with your finger, get the bead all nice, and then pull the tape and your mess goes away leaving nothing but the smooth bead.
 

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rear window molding

There was a similar thread a couple of years ago about this. The molding part number may have changed since then (I have a spare at home and can give the part number if needed) and the price has gone up considerably, like from $50 to $150, but the point remains that the molding is a press fit and the window does not need to come out.

The trick, if there is one, is to cut the old molding at the corners and pull it off the top and sides. Apply some protective tape around the perimeter to avoid scratching the paint because you will probably need to use some type of tool to get the new piece tight against the edges of the glass, particularly in the upper corners. It is then a matter of starting at the top and pressing the molding on with your fingers that will likely become sore by the time you are finished.
 

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Bumping an old thread here.

I went ahead and did the silicone thing, but I guess I didn't do it thoroughly enough, I noticed some nice rust developing... I ripped most of the sealant out, and now am trying to figure out how to proceed...

Going to a body shop tomorrow to see what they say. It doesn't look TOO too bad right now, just surface rust. I'm thinking of just trying to sand it down the best I can and apply some rustproofing. Any ideas for me guys? Much appreciated.
 

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I use Permatex Adhesive Sealant Black Silicone #81158 (Silicon ***** Sellador Adhesivo). Last 4-5 yrs. Use the tape & razor method to get a nice bead. You can keep the window trim seals soft by cleaning them with brake fluid. Same as keeping the windshield wiper soft and not squeeling. Good luck.
 

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I ended up having the body shop take the rear window off, getting rid of the rust, and apply new weather stripping. It came out very nicely and I shouldn't have any more issues for a long time!

C70 rear window by Logan Abner, on Flickr
 

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Yes, it's the outside molding. The new one is different from what is on the car, it's three pieces and the new is one piece. I've had the car for 10 years and it just happened, and it was keep outside.
My 98 coupe is 1 piece front door window to back fly out window. All original. I use 3M trim glue to keep it in place. 1 application lasted for 4 yrs now.
 

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I replaced the rear seal of my 1998 C70 coupe in 2010, It was a daily driver and I kept it covered and garaged most of the time, but over time this particular seal dried out and disintegrated, after I replaced it ( the window did not have to be removed ) I was advised to use silicon lube spray on it, it worked, it makes a mess on the glass but it works best if you leave it on after applying it for at least two days, it needs time to soak in. I was told that silicon spray is best for all the rubber seals but I my first instinct was to use 30 W oil, and I did for all the other rubber seals including the moon roof seal it may sound crazy but the 30W oil seems to have rehydrated the seals but not the rear window seal, it seems to be made of a different type of softer rubber and the 30W oil breaks it down, I was able to reverse the damage with silicon spray, so my advice is to use 30W oil on the windshield, moon roof and side windows but silicon on the rear window seal.
 

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I went ahead and bought a blue box window from Volvo. About $500 but the design is different and better than the original. That old rear window had no seal when I bought the car in 2008 and it really bothered me. My coupe has been an experiment in how much money you can spend on an old car. As a matter of fact, I'm heading down to the dealer tomorrow to pick up another part. My philosophy is if it need replaced, I go for the blue box. Thank god they sell parts to me for their wholesale price. I think they feel sorry for me.....
 

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The seal is purely cosmetic as the window is glued in. There are models of Cadillacs and Mercedes with the same type of rear windows that do not have a molding around the glass. I removed mine after the replacement stated to crumble. It looks fine and does not leak.
 
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