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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The V70 forum is crickets on this, so maybe an S60 owner has experienced this and can clue me in.
My cooling fan runs only intermittently. At first, running A/C would always cycle it on so I could control my engine temps by running the compressor. Lately, I don't think the A/C is switching it on reliably. Anyway, the dash gauge is not moving, but the ScanGauge is reading fluctuating temps from 180-207F, when it used to run reliably btw 182-188F.
Took it to the local indy shop and was told that all solenoids controlling the fan are on the fan, so the resolution would be replacing the $500 fan. Anyone able to confirm or make alternate suggestions?
 

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Having a ScanGauge myself also, here's what I can tell you in my experience in my S60... Fan should cycle on around 220-224F. It'll cool everything back down to at or just below 190F. Mine normally on the highway runs from 184-190F cruising. If you feel yours isn't acting normal or the fan not cycling properly, look into a new fan switch. Not sure if our cars here one, but if they do, then that May be culprit. Otherwise check over all wiring to the fan and the fan relay as well at the fuse box. Also VIDA should tell you if anything is amiss if you have access to that. Good luck!

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Dash temp gauge is computer controlled and does not show minor temperature fluctuations. My fan turns on when the engine temp is over about 205/7 and cools it down to 180/190. I used to watch this on my Torque app when parked after hitting congestion at the end of my commute and listening to my stereo and checking that the temp was in fact coming down.

Another thread, here or somewhere else reported fan control elements in the fan itself. But a question for you is - does the fan ever come on at all at this point?

During my ETM (throttle) replacement, I removed the fan and it just has a red and black wire pair connected. This suggests you might be able to check if the fan runs when connected to 12v and ground. I would would only connect it briefly and make no warrantee about whether this might be bad for the fan if it is expecting some A/C or other power connection. It you try it and the fan runs, then there may be an issue with a fan relay or fuse.
 

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I concur on the dash temp gauge. It's not going to budge until about 230-235F in my experience... I've had mine up to 228F momentarily going up a 15% grade with the car fairly loaded weight wise and the gauge didn't move.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, so two of you confirm that the fan doesn't kick in until temps are much higher than I had thought. I can now watch for that. But this contradicts my experiences in 2017, after getting the ScanGauge while living in Tucson. There, pretty much anytime I got home from work (small 4 mile commute) the fan would be on by the time I got in the driveway and would run for some time after I turned it off. This has not happened here at all, even though the commute is 2x longer and traffic moves about the same rate. The big difference is that I have about 1 mile in neighborhood streets here where I had 1/4 mile at the same slow speeds there.
Again, though, until about August, I had never seen the engine temp rise above 188F before.
Anyway, I'll trust you guys in that it is still operating appropriately.
A side question though:
Anyone ever see a failing thermostat cause elevated but still-within-range temps like I have described? My usual experience is that it sticks shut causing rapid overheating once engine temps reach normal or it sticks open and you get a MIL/CEL because the emissions system needs a warm engine to work right.
 

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What I described in my first reply is with NO A/C running, how the cooling system acts. This was exactly the same case in my old 1st gen S40 that I had as well, and that was 4-banger Volvo motor. That all said, work the A/C running which is probably your case if in AZ, them you shouldn't the temp get much over 195 or so, in traffic, since the fan will always be running. This is how I roll these days since I seem to experience a serious heat soak problem from the tranny if the coming system is allowed to get to it's normal 220F fan kick on point. So I always run my A/C when in traffic to keep the temps down.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
May, June, July, August and September are past, so the heat finally broke and I began driving without A/C again. Yesterday the coolant got up to 220F by the ScanGauge. Dash temp gauge continued to read normal right down the middle, so that means Volvo engineers felt that 220F (just over 104C) is still within the "safe" range?
Yeah, I do have engine temp concerns, maybe more than most people, but the ScanGauge saved me from a middle-of-the-desert family vacation catastrophe by helping me realize that the Odyssey's radiator was operating with partial capacity when the dash gauge didn't show anything out of the ordinary. We were forced to spend 5 hours replacing the radiator (via removal of the front bumper, lights, etc) on a 116F evening at a friend's house in Phx. But if we had attempted to travel to LA in ignorance, surely it would have overheated, spilled all its coolant and possibly warped a head on the incline between Blythe and Desert Center on I-10.
 

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Normal for me seems to be between 220-224F is when the fan kicks on an temps begin to drop down to about the mid 180's. Summer last year with my S60 fully loaded, roof cargo box and all, I hit 228F going up the 15% grade incline entrance into Virginia City in NV... My dash temp gauge didn't raise beyond the center. I was super concerned with the temp reading from my ScanGauge though. You probably won't see the gauge rise past the middle unless you're hitting 230-235F which is my experience with that. So 220F is well within normal range. Remember, having turbo our cars will tend to run hotter than an N/A car. Our cooling systems work quite well at keeping that in check. Of course extreme hills and ambient temps will compromise that on almost any car.

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My non turbo stays at idle around 190F. When accelerating up to 3500rpm it will rise to 195-205F - the thermostat opens at 195F (91C)
As mentioned, the radiator fans kicks in only near 225F and at all these temperatures, the gauge stays quite sharp at 12 o'clock.

As for the fan controller, when located directly on the fan unit, can just cut the thick power wires and swap the controller - will need to weld the wires on the replacement unit with a soldering iron
 

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I have a similar problem on a 2005 V70:
-engine cooling fan does not come on, no matter what
I checked all the wiring, I also checked the fan with a PWM signal from a signal generator.
The temperature indicated by the OBD reader is ok, so it is not a sensor issue..
There is no signal coming out from the ECU, I had a scope on it, so I am sure it is the ECU. Contact to the ECU is OK ( I even opened the ECU and measured.
is the ECU controlling the cooling fan continuously or just in 2 or 3 fixed speeds?
  • Has anybody seen a similar issue?
  • if I build a small external controller, will I be able to ever use the AC? I can build it to read the ECT sensor and also monitor the AC pressure switch.
  • did anybody manage to clone an ECU on his own?
 

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Does your fan come on when the A/C is turned on and running? If not, I'd say you might need a new fan, or at least a good known working undamaged unit from a similar model at a junk yard. Chances are it's the control unit and not the fan itself that's bad. Whether it's the fan itself or the built-in controller in the fan unit, you're best off getting a good working used one. They are about $100b or so online, probably cheaper in person from a pick & pull. I'm not certain, but there may be temp sensors as well that if not working might cause the can to not operate, but I'd think of that were the case the A/C should still operate it since it's separate from the engine cooling system. Also double check all harness and connections to the fan and inspect all wires for any damage or issues.

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Does your fan come on when the A/C is turned on and running? If not, I'd say you might need a new fan, or at least a good known working undamaged unit from a similar model at a junk yard. Chances are it's the control unit and not the fan itself that's bad. Whether it's the fan itself or the built-in controller in the fan unit, you're best off getting a good working used one. They are about $100b or so online, probably cheaper in person from a pick & pull. I'm not certain, but there may be temp sensors as well that if not working might cause the can to not operate, but I'd think of that were the case the A/C should still operate it since it's separate from the engine cooling system. Also double check all harness and connections to the fan and inspect all wires for any damage or issues.

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I do have a good fan. also tested fan in the car and is good.
Sensor is OK. absolutely no PWM comes out of the ECU under no conditions.
 

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I do have a good fan. also tested fan in the car and is good.
Sensor is OK. absolutely no PWM comes out of the ECU under no conditions.
I'm not positive if the main cooling fan can work the same way, but the ECU/TCU box cooling fan works by the ECU closing a ground connection to power it on. Power is constant to the fan, and the ECU triggers the ground connection to complete the circuit. Again not sure if the main cooling fan operates the same. Are you sure that the ECU actually controls the main fan? Also have you checked the fuses? Basic dumb stuff I know, but gotta ask. Lastly have you tested a good known working fan in it's place connected to the fan connection harness to verify ECU not sending signal to the fan?

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