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Discussion Starter #1
Confused - I got less than a gallon out of the radiator tap and rear block tap. Perhaps about 3.5qts from the rad and very, very little from the block drain. Reservoir was full prior. 2004 2.5t awd, 9.3 qt capacity stated.

I was under the impression I'd get the majority of the capacity less the heater core and hoses, + bit down in the oil cooler. Is there a hose somewhere I need to break to get the block to drain (vacuum)? Based on DIY's I read (and prior different cars), I thought it would drain freely, thermostat, hoses, etc. all intact. The car is slightly nose-up on some rhino ramps, that can't be blocking it, can it?
 

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I assume you have the reservoir cap off? Sometimes radiator drains will get plugged up, taking the lower radiator hose off works better for draining. You can also start it and run for 30 seconds or so to get the coolant flowing.
 

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I'm interested in this also. Just changed my coolant in 2016 S60 and had the same issue. I got 1 gallon exactly.
I just flushed it with distilled water a few times before refilling with coolant.

I'm planning to do my wife's V60 but I think it's going to be the same story. The release spout looked clean.

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep, cap off to break vacuum.

(also I posted this in the wrong S60 forum I now see, but I don't think that matters overall).

I believe this is about all that comes out and like Thommykent* said, I'll start it to get some more out but not sweat this. I read a detailed proceedure on the XC70 that indicated you needed to fill, run, and drain at the same time to get more.

* Funny coincidence, I am about to get in my XC to run to the dealership in Bellevue to get a replacement drain petcock for the S60. ;)
 

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I just did the XC 60 last week....hate messing with rad drains as they get brittle and sometimes leak after.....so pulled lower hose.....filled with new 50/50 and ran till stat opened , then did it again second time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just did the XC 60 last week....hate messing with rad drains as they get brittle and sometimes leak after.....so pulled lower hose.....filled with new 50/50 and ran till stat opened , then did it again second time.
Sounds good. I think that's what I'll do next time. These drain taps loose strength with heat cycling - not the right material for that hollow design. I ordered a new one and some small things from iPd today and will just finish up when it's here. I went to a local dealership today and they didn't have any (huh?) and also wanted $15 for and would have it in a couple days. Not going there again!
 

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I am interested as well. I have 2017 S60 and I had the same problem. Earlier I managed to get the drain plug out and a lot more coolant came out. Without taking the drain plug out not all the coolant will come out I think. The problem is that I didn't want to break anything. The drain plug seems fragile. Somehow I got it off once but I don't recall what I did to get it out completely.
 

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Confused - I got less than a gallon out of the radiator tap and rear block tap. Perhaps about 3.5qts from the rad and very, very little from the block drain. Reservoir was full prior. 2004 2.5t awd, 9.3 qt capacity stated.

I was under the impression I'd get the majority of the capacity less the heater core and hoses, + bit down in the oil cooler. Is there a hose somewhere I need to break to get the block to drain (vacuum)? Based on DIY's I read (and prior different cars), I thought it would drain freely, thermostat, hoses, etc. all intact. The car is slightly nose-up on some rhino ramps, that can't be blocking it, can it?
I will be replacing the radiator on my 2010 XC60 T6, and the only drain plug I have heard of is the at the bottom of the radiator. What is this block drain you speak of?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I will be replacing the radiator on my 2010 XC60 T6, and the only drain plug I have heard of is the at the bottom of the radiator. What is this block drain you speak of?
Oh, that's clever, is that like an Antoine de Saint-Exupery reference (a genuine hero of mine):

https://allthetropes.fandom.com/wiki/What_Is_This_X_You_Speak_Of?

Anyway, unknown death by Luftwaffe (highly unlikely) or P-38 mechanical gremlins (so many as to be legion) aside:

It's shown here (below). This is P2 but I am betting the same - again, I mistakenly started this in the wrong forum after two Irish stouts, but I think it's the same. :) Also, this is shown on a junk-yard car so he's doing it the hard way from the top, which is stupid. From beneath, it's quite clear and the metal/metal tap/line is not fragile at all. He just made all that mess because he didn't know what he was doing, and did it from above off-axis blindly. Just don't be ham-fisted. If you don't have a 13mm deep 3/8" drive and still want to go at it, just use a 1/2" drive 13mm; it will be deep enough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5J9amzilX2g

That's not a great video, just the best I could find. OTOH, just like all said above, it drained little/nothing so I guess it's designed for when you (powered) flush versus just drain.
 

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Did my wife's V60 today.
Again, got only 1 gallon from the radiator. I couldn't find any other drain plug besides the one in the radiator. I think there is a coolant line that one could release that goes to transmission (if I remember correctly) but I didn't try it.

One thing I did try was to not use vacuum filler for the water flush and see if the system will "burb" itself. The coolant temperature reached 98C and the thermostat didn't open by then. I don't think the system would burp itself so watch out for this. I know it's mentioned here a few times but wanted to see for myself.

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So what is the best way to drain the coolant for the T6 (3.0L turbo I6) engine?

Is the best way to take the coolant cap off, and go from the radiator drain plug? Are there ways to drain the coolant, from just the radiator drain plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll finish by mentioning what I did:

1) replaced the soft original drain tap with a new one from iPd. It was "genuine Volvo" per iPd but clearly a new, harder plastic, also slightly different color demonstrated that. It was $5 vs. $17 from the local dealer.

2) I just settled on draining 1 gallon as above instead of running the engine with the system open. However, I added back in 2.9qts of concentrate before topping up w/dH20 - 2.4 qts to make my new gallon a 60% solution, and an extra .5 qts to bring the non-drained coolant up to 60%. This has a few benefits
a) Nominal freeze protection increased from ~-30F to ~-55F
b) Corrosion inhibitors, pH buffers, etc. in coolant increased 20%
c) no downside at all

I will repeat the process in the spring to get a higher percentage of new coolant in, but not worry until then.

Instead of Volvo coolant, I used a newer product from Peak, "10x." It's wholly compatible, no 2eha, etc. I had Volvo coolant on hand, so this was performance/protection choice, not of price or convenience.

https://peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-and-cool/auto/peak-antifreeze-coolant-full-strength/

Is the best way to take the coolant cap off, and go from the radiator drain plug? Are there ways to drain the coolant, from just the radiator drain plug?
As mentioned by others above, unless you are sure you have the new, harder drain plug, I'd just pull the lower radiator hose. It's right next to the drain plug and barely any harder to remove. I'll do that in the future.

To answer your ask above higher, there is a block drain on the back of the block, above the oil cooler - 13mm. I'd skip it as both I and people above said little/nothing came out.
 

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I'll finish by mentioning what I did:

1) replaced the soft original drain tap with a new one from iPd. It was "genuine Volvo" per iPd but clearly a new, harder plastic, also slightly different color demonstrated that. It was $5 vs. $17 from the local dealer.

2) I just settled on draining 1 gallon as above instead of running the engine with the system open. However, I added back in 2.9qts of concentrate before topping up w/dH20 - 2.4 qts to make my new gallon a 60% solution, and an extra .5 qts to bring the non-drained coolant up to 60%. This has a few benefits
a) Nominal freeze protection increased from ~-30F to ~-55F
b) Corrosion inhibitors, pH buffers, etc. in coolant increased 20%
c) no downside at all

I will repeat the process in the spring to get a higher percentage of new coolant in, but not worry until then.

Instead of Volvo coolant, I used a newer product from Peak, "10x." It's wholly compatible, no 2eha, etc. I had Volvo coolant on hand, so this was performance/protection choice, not of price or convenience.

https://peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-and-cool/auto/peak-antifreeze-coolant-full-strength/



As mentioned by others above, unless you are sure you have the new, harder drain plug, I'd just pull the lower radiator hose. It's right next to the drain plug and barely any harder to remove. I'll do that in the future.

To answer your ask above higher, there is a block drain on the back of the block, above the oil cooler - 13mm. I'd skip it as both I and people above said little/nothing came out.
Thanks for the breakdown, really appreciated! My radiator in my 2010 XC60 T6 has a minor leak in it, and I will be replacing it with a Do88 Performance Radiator! To replace the radiator you need to drain the coolant, obviously, and I was wondering how you did that.

In step 1) is the "drain tap" that you are talking about, the lower radiator drain plug? I have ordered a new one from Volvo, and also some other bits and pieces that will be replaced with the radiator, just because they have been there for the life of the XC60, and wouldn't hurt to get replaced. Would you also recommend draining coolant from both the lower radiator hose and also the radiator drain plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In step 1) is the "drain tap" that you are talking about, the lower radiator drain plug? I have ordered a new one from Volvo, and also some other bits and pieces that will be replaced with the radiator, just because they have been there for the life of the XC60, and wouldn't hurt to get replaced. Would you also recommend draining coolant from both the lower radiator hose and also the radiator drain plug?
Yes; same thing. The dealership parts guy called it a "tap" and not a plug but I don't know what the "official" name is. ;) The hose is right at the tap/plug so either/or, no need for both.

This is the coolant I used. I view it as an improvement over the original, though there's no way using original fluid maintained on a regular/sane basis could ever be inadequate AFAIK. I like it because it is very widely available, cheap, and I can cover a few different specs with it (Lexus, Acura esp.) and minimize different products I have to chase down. Being in Canada, depending upon where, it may appeal to you to have a somewhat more robust coolant - additive-wise, because of course either one mixed 60/40 would give maximum freeze protection.

https://peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-and-cool/auto/peak-antifreeze-coolant-full-strength/
 

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Yes; same thing. The dealership parts guy called it a "tap" and not a plug but I don't know what the "official" name is. ;) The hose is right at the tap/plug so either/or, no need for both.

This is the coolant I used. I view it as an improvement over the original, though there's no way using original fluid maintained on a regular/sane basis could ever be inadequate AFAIK. I like it because it is very widely available, cheap, and I can cover a few different specs with it (Lexus, Acura esp.) and minimize different products I have to chase down. Being in Canada, depending upon where, it may appeal to you to have a somewhat more robust coolant - additive-wise, because of course either one mixed 60/40 would give maximum freeze protection.

https://peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-and-cool/auto/peak-antifreeze-coolant-full-strength/
Thanks for the information! Appreciate it!

I like in Alberta, where the temperatures can drop extremely quickly and stay for a while. The coolant I have been using is the Volvo OEM one, mixing 60/40 with distilled water.
I am asking as a consumer, what makes you think that that coolant is better/more robust than the Volvo OEM coolant? Does it have more additives in it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, more additives and critically more pH buffers. I have been alarmed at the number of head gasket failures I've seen when shopping for used Volvos.

I don't know for a fact this is the cause, but it worries me. I know this is usually the cause of Subaru hg's failures - premature coolant acidification (the local Subaru experts - AllWheelDrive - have a great blog/website on this). I did a pre-purchase inspection for an acquaintance this summer/fall on a 2017 Subaru Crosstrek. it failed in 2.5 minutes, once I opened the hood - signs of off-gassing everywhere, surface rust/corrosion on all galvanized parts. The paint was bubbling underneath all the radiator bolts. Instant "no deal" - and on a 2017 with 70k miles. It was just off-lease and it was being sold by the local dealership, not a private party - and they clearly weren't competent enough to diagnose the issue.

I saw a lot of hg failures in volvos 2005 and up with relatively low miles - 120k, 150k, - that were otherwise pristine and adult driven/maintained. It made me worry some Volvos have a weakness here. I'm doing everything I can to avoid that so using the most robust coolant I can find that's fully compatible, and then going to drain/fill it every other year or so.
 

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Yes, more additives and critically more pH buffers. I have been alarmed at the number of head gasket failures I've seen when shopping for used Volvos.

I don't know for a fact this is the cause, but it worries me. I know this is usually the cause of Subaru hg's failures - premature coolant acidification (the local Subaru experts - AllWheelDrive - have a great blog/website on this). I did a pre-purchase inspection for an acquaintance this summer/fall on a 2017 Subaru Crosstrek. it failed in 2.5 minutes, once I opened the hood - signs of off-gassing everywhere, surface rust/corrosion on all galvanized parts. The paint was bubbling underneath all the radiator bolts. Instant "no deal" - and on a 2017 with 70k miles. It was just off-lease and it was being sold by the local dealership, not a private party - and they clearly weren't competent enough to diagnose the issue.

I saw a lot of hg failures in volvos 2005 and up with relatively low miles - 120k, 150k, - that were otherwise pristine and adult driven/maintained. It made me worry some Volvos have a weakness here. I'm doing everything I can to avoid that so using the most robust coolant I can find that's fully compatible, and then going to drain/fill it every other year or so.
Huh, this is all very interesting.

I have never really of head gaskets failure on the T6 engines before, and I have only ever heard of cracked sleeves or blocks on the T5's. I have always done my fluids and maintenance before the recommended maintenance. So I wonder if doing everything early makes a difference.
 
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