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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is torque spec for the control arm bolts and the ball joint ? Also how much do ypu tight the ball joint for example how much of the tread should bw out ? Accordig to one website i found that the front control arm bolt needs too be tighten too 130 ft lbs is this correct with the wheels on the ground and for the balljoint 52 ft lbs with the wheels on the ground ? Do have tighten them with the wheels on the ground ? Also the rear two bolts at 45 ft lbs the website is herehttp://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volvo-C30/76-SUSPEN-Front_Control_Arm_Replacement/76-SUSPEN-Front_Control_Arm_Replacement.htm
 

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You must tighten the front control arm bolts with the car on the ground (or on ramps). The ball joint & rear control arm bolts can be done in the air. You'll never get a torque wrench on the ball joint nut without special tools. As my German friend would say... "gutentite" Ball joint is a taper fit so it's not so critical.
 

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Ball joint torque is 52 ft lbs. Which you have to kind of guess at since, as pczeilon said, you cant get a socket on it. A little too tight is better than a little too loose.
Front LCA bolt is 129 ft/lbs.
Rear bushing bolts are 44 ft/lbs +90 degrees.

The rear bolts are toque to yield and should be replaced.
 

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You must tighten the front control arm bolts with the car on the ground (or on ramps). The ball joint & rear control arm bolts can be done in the air. You'll never get a torque wrench on the ball joint nut without special tools. As my German friend would say... "gutentite" Ball joint is a taper fit so it's not so critical.
I was looking at the repair procedure in VIDA for my 2004 T5 Turbo and it doesn't reference tightening the front control arm bolt while on the ground. Does that apply in all cases?
thanks
 

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I was looking at the repair procedure in VIDA for my 2004 T5 Turbo and it doesn't reference tightening the front control arm bolt while on the ground. Does that apply in all cases?
thanks
This seems to be a common question. I got a couple PMs on it as well. I'll copy my response here.

Here is how to think about tightening any suspension component. Let's take the S40 control arm as an example. The front rubber bushing is tightly held by the control arm on the outside & bonded to the metal sleeve on the inside. When you tighten the mounting bolt it grabs the inner sleeve tight & will not allow it to rotate. It is engineered to be installed at normal ride height. As the suspension travels up & down the rubber will twist in approximately equal amounts. At rest the rubber is not twisted at all. If you tighten the bolt at full droop (such as putting a jack under the frame to lift the wheel off the ground) you can imagine what happens. The rubber is now being twisted twice as far as intended & is twisted even at normal ride height. This leads to extremely premature wear.
The rear bushing is already bonded to the carrier at normal ride height. In fact, you'll find it quite difficult to install the control arm without getting it to normal height first. Ball joint doesn't care, it simply pivots wherever you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
so how would you tighten the front control arm bolt how would you get too it without jacking up the car and the wheel is on ?
 

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so how would you tighten the front control arm bolt how would you get too it without jacking up the car and the wheel is on ?
ramps work well. you can also put the car on jack stands and use the hydraullic jack to lift the arm until the full weight of the car is on it and tighten, but I wouldn't recommend this because 1. its dangerous and 2. you could damage your control arm
 

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+1 I'll elaborate a little more.

In a perfect world you would have the entire car level such as on 4 ramps or 2 ramps & jack stands on the other end. In the real world 2 ramps are close enough. After all, how many people loosen & then re-tighten all the rubber bushing mounts after installing lowering springs?

Second method works well also. Lets say your car is sitting on 4 jack stands. You remove a wheel & then use your floor jack under the control arm out by the ball joint. Jack until the car JUST lifts off that particular jack stand. Do NOT remove the stand, leave it as a safety. Like phish mentioned there is some risk involved. You need to be very sure the jack is secure under the control arm. The angle of the arm is changing as you jack, etc. so it's possible for the floor jack to slip.

Stay Safe!
 

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Ball joint torque is 52 ft lbs. Which you have to kind of guess at since, as pczeilon said, you cant get a socket on it. A little too tight is better than a little too loose.
Front LCA bolt is 129 ft/lbs.
Rear bushing bolts are 44 ft/lbs +90 degrees.

The rear bolts are toque to yield and should be replaced.
Gizmo,
The torque 52ft-lbs is for ball joint nut to the control arm or to the steering knuckle?
And also, are you referring to two horizontal bolts with "Front LCA bolt is 129ft/lbs" and rear bushsing bolt would be the vertical one?

Thanks.
 
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