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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am not trying to ramble, but I want to be as detailed as possible. I have searched the site for multiple evenings, and I am unsure of the next step in repairing my car. The nearest Volvo dealer is 70 miles, and the local import shop here wants $2000 to fix the problem. I am seeking knowledge to potentially fix it myself.<br>I have a 2001 v70 t5 with 145K miles on it. I had a local mechanic do the 100k service, and once he completed the job, the CEL came on. However, the car ran fine, and the guy is a really great mechanic. So, I was not overly worried, and he suggested running some injector cleaner through the engine and cleaning the mass airflow sensor. I did these two things, and the CEL remained on, however, the car did continue to run fine. After a bit of time, the car seemed to become a little bit less spunky, and the light finally began to annoy me. So I took it back to the mechanic, and he checked the codes, and reset them. Once this happened, the car ran horribly. His reader did not have the specific volvo codes, but it did have a basic code about the turbo sensor. In the end, it was beyond him on what to do next.<br>I read many posts about reseting the computer and such to relearn how to function properly, but nothing worked. The turbo never even engages anymore. There is absolutely no power, and in general, my '91 tercel could kick it's ass off the line. I finally took the car to the local import shop which does a lot of work on volvos.<br>The codes that were showing are P0237 and P0236, a turbo boost sensor low signal and range performance fault respectively. <br>The shop's interpretation was "wastegate or turbo has failed, need to disassmble and inspect turbo condition". In the end, he felt the turbo was probably shot, and would need replaced for $2000, a common problem for this make of car according to them. I guess my question is, what is the best choice of action? I do not mind replacing parts, but I am unsure of how to check which parts to replace. I have read about adjusting the wastegate, but not on how to test to see if it is completely defunct. Also, could it be the TCV? Is complete turbo failure a common problem? If so, is it possible for a relatively competent person to replace himself? Thanks in advance.
 

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Re: Complete Turbo Failure (DPU)

It might be the TCV has gone bad. First, check the 3 hoses on the tcv for cracks, and make sure they are connected at the other end. It's not hard to replace. You can buy the oem part<p><A HREF="http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/48567/nm/Volvo_V70_Turbo_Boost_Pressure_Solenoid_Valve/category_id/215" TARGET="_blank">http://www.fcpgroton.com/produ...d/215</A><p>Or a hd replacement<p><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-V70XC70-2001-2007/Engine-Management/Heavy-Duty-Turbo-Control-Valve/p-127-381-4234" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-V7...-4234</A>/<br>
 

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Agreed doubtfull on the Turbo itself dying .<p>I would go with a Bad TCV and change that out and go from there. <p>You can call the local junk yards or volvo specifc ones and find a used turbo for alot less.
 

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One other thing to look at. My 2003 XC70 clogged it's catalytic converter around 90k. I don't really remember how it was diagnosed but the power from the engine rapidly diminished over the course of a few weeks. It got to the point where I could floor the accelerator while in neutral and the engine wouldn't even come close to the red line. One new (slightly used) cat later and my car was pulling like a champ again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (Chilled Man)

Thank you guys for the advice. I ordered the heavy duty TCV from IDP today with hoses and clamps. Hopefully I will get it installed this weekend and see what it does. I will keep you posted either way, because if it does not work, I am sure i will have more questions.<br>Thanks again.<br>
 

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Re: Complete Turbo Failure (DPU)

mine did a MAP sensor, same result (symptoms)and funnily enough same codes.<p>not that these guys are wrong but.....<br>unlikely unless the TCV is completely stuffed and even then I dont think it would pop the CEL.<p>a "volvo" place with the volvo OBD will diagnose this in 5mins and sell you the new map sensor for (mine was $140 AUD) probably a little over a hundred bucks.<p>If the engine is getting no MAP (manifold air pressure) signal it will not go over wastegate spring pressure (call it 4psi) which will feel like nothing.<p>I agree, turbo failure is highly unlikely, that said at 145K miles, its due for some bearings, a turbo rebuild shouldn't cost more than a few hundred bucks and again you can do it yourself if you are really careful. Problem with this is balancing, it must go back together exactly as it came apart, this can proove fiddly, also there is no torque specified for the nut holding on the compressor wheel but rather a stretch of the bolt/shaft, you will need some patience to work this out too.<p>Good luck<p>Karl
 

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Re: Complete Turbo Failure (LPG Karl)

incidentally if the hoses to the TCV are stuffed the result is normally overboost.<p>eg if you pull the hose off the wastegate actuator, the boost will build and build until the motor goes bang. <br>The TCV does the same thing a "bleed valve" does, it allows some air to escape allowing the wastegate actuator to think its seeing less pressure and hence the gate remains shut longer.<p>THE ECU controls the TCV, keeping the actuator thinking there is less boost, the idea of using spring will less boost than the manufacturer wants is if something is going wrong like knocking or no MAP signal for example it no longer knows how to safely map the fuel and ignition hence it will revert to spring pressure and at this level not break the motor.<p>IN short -tcv is NOT your problem.<p>go with the MAP sensor. try this<p> <A HREF="http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2002/volvo/v70/fuel_injection/map_sensor.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.partsgeek.com/catal....html</A>
 

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Re: Complete Turbo Failure (LPG Karl)

I had an issue with no boost from the turbo. It turned out to be that the wastegate screw had loosened and the rod had come disconnected. You can check to see if it is intact by looking under the heat shield over the turbo behind the engine. I had a CEL for a code that read low boost pressure or something along those lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Complete Turbo Failure (LPG Karl)

Strike 1!<p>So, I replaced the TCV and all the hoses. As Karl predicted, this was not the problem. Thanks Karl. Since I had already ordered the TCV, I thought I may as well install it. The reviews at IPD make it seem very intriguing either way. The car seemed to run slightly better, but I believe it is due to a temperature drop of about 15 degrees in the daytime highs.<p>Since I had a few moments, I took the heat shield off and checked out the wastegate. It too appears to be fine. The rod was attached, and as advised by previous posts, I used a bike pump on the yellow line for the TCV that went in to waste gate to see how the wastegate was working. And, although I do not know what pressure it was opening at, it appeared to open and shut accordingly. So, I do not believe it is stuck open. When the rod is lifted from the flap, the flap moved freely.<p>At this point, I am ready to replace the MAP sensor, but just curious what others thought about that? Is there a better road to run down, or is that the next logical step. Reading up on the MAP sensor, it makes sense that it could be causing the issue, but I am again just curious what others thought. <p>On a side note, when I was replacing the hoses on the turbo to the TCV, there was a glazing of oil on the turbo itself, so I am curious if that is a sign of a potential issue. In the past I had replaced the line that historically had a leak going into the turbo. I did that about 4 years ago.<p>Anyhow, any advice is as always greatly appreciated.
 

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Re: Complete Turbo Failure (DPU)

as you suggest no love lost, both are "failure items" so replacement now means piece of mind later as you know all the bits replaced are good.<p>map sensor next logical thing as if it was the Airflow meter probably wouldnt run at all, that said AFM is unfortunately another candidate but much more expensive.<p>that said never throw away "broken" bits until the problem is resolved.<p>I test drove one that the AFM had failed and it too did not boost.<p>Basically anything fails in the way of sensors and the ecu will protect the motor by not allowing it to boost.<p>This includes map sensors, cam/crank pos sensors, knock sensors, O2 sensors.<p>I have even seen a Subaru that took 2 years to diagnose an intermittant boost problem that turned out to be a broken engine mount. ECU was picking it up as a knock and thus not allowing it to boost.<p>It went to 10 different mechanics and in the end the guy abandoned it and during Roadworthy inspection (to sell it) was told it needed a new motor mount, mount fitted and problem went away!!!!!<p>Dont worry about the "oily residue" fairly normal.<p>hope it doesnt break you (emotionally and financially) searching by this method
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: Complete Turbo Failure (LPG Karl)

Karl, I replaced the MAP sensor, and the jury is still out. The turbo seems to kick in briefly, but only at high rpms, IE around 4500. And it is a short burst. I will reset the computer, and see if it adjusts appropriately. Thanks for your advice, and I will let you know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Complete Turbo Failure (LPG Karl)

So, it was not the MAP sensor. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Strike 2.<br>After 2 strikes, I talked to a couple of people around here, and my favorite mechanic thought it could be a throttle position sensor. This instantly got me thinking about all the problems Volvo has had with their ETM. Mine had been replaced around 70k, and the car is at 143k, so I thought it might have gone out again. I looked at posts on the website and the issues my car was having were very similar to the ETM going out again. Although when it went out the 1st time, it was quick. THe car went into limp mode, and the issue was obvious to Volvo. THis time it was a bit more drawn out. So, since the car was showing no codes, I made a diagnostic appointment with the local volvo dealer, 80 miles away.<br>I took the car in, they ran tests on if for nearly 3 hours, and no codes were being shown that would cause the issues the car was having. So, they started eliminating things by replacing things. Low and behold it was the AMF sensor. It was still working, but like crap. They told me they wanted $550 to replace it, and I told them, I would do it myself. So, they took the new on out, and put in my crappy one and I was on my way.<br>Called IPD, ordered the new one for $160, ten minutes to replace, and the car is like a rocket again. Having driven it for nearly a month with absolutely no power, then having the new TCV and AMF installed, simply amazing change. So in the end, I spent approximately $500 on changing sensors and diagnostics from two shops. But the car is back. I should have tested the AMF sensor to begin with like many have posted, but I just did not think it was the problem. <br>Thanks for your help Karl, although it took awhile, I actually learned alot about my car, and enjoyed working on it.<br>
 
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