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I've been searching trying to find my own thread and since I can't find it I will repost it. I've updated it to include the 6MT/Bevel Gear/Rear Diff/AOC-Haldex fluid changes. There are also some new pics of what the old oil looked like.<p>I let the oil sit in the container for 3 weeks, that caused all of the solids to settle to the bottom. I poured out the oil and this is what was left on the bottom. The black sludgy one is the Angle/Bevel gear, and the other is the rear diff. AOC fluid was pretty clear and I didn't take any pictures of it. Bottom line, you are crazy not to change ALL of these fluids. This change was done at 50K miles. "Lifetime Fluid" is not worth the risk to me...<p> Here is the How-To:<br>I just changed my 6MT (M66) fluid, bevel gear, and rear differential fluids. I wanted to write down my experience so when and if you decide to tackle it you don't have to hunt for answers as much as I did. My car has 50K miles and I plan to keep it so the term "Lifetime fluid" means little to me. All of the fluids were dirty, in particular the rear differential. I would consider this mandatory maintenance if you plan to keep your car.<p>Transmission (M66-6MT): Easy to change, the tranny has a drain plug on the bottom, and a fill plug (24mm) on the side by the left front wheel (the wheel must be removed). Just drain out the old fluid, and refill. To refill you will either need an oil pump, to pump the oil in, or a funnel with a 24 inch long hose. I used the Volvo oil (part #1161745) for the M66, it is 75W-90 API GL-4 fully synthetic (Redline MT-90 should be a good equivalent). Fill until it starts to leak out of the fill hole. Capacity is 2.3L (mine only took 2L). Requires two aluminum crush washers (same size as engine oil drain plug).<p>Bevel Gear: Also easy to change, though it requires the use of an oil pump. I put the car onto ramps to allow easier access. The bevel gear only has a fill plug. Remove it, insert the small hose on your oil pump (make sure it is clean) and start pumping. Once you are done, pump a few squirts of fresh oil through the pump and into the waste oil container (to clear out the old fluid in the hoses of your oil pump, and ensure only fresh fluid will be used to fill the Bevel gear). Then pump the new fluid into the bevel gear until it begins to leak out of the fill plug. Install the plug. Capacity is .8L. I used Volvo AWD Fluid (API GL-5 BOT part #1161648). Requires one aluminum crush washer (same size as engine oil drain plug). (Note: bevel gear can also be filled with a funnel with a 24 inch hose). Volvo also has a procedure to drill a hole for a drain plug into the bevel gear's casing, it is unecessary, and will likely do more harm than good by introducing metal shavings into the unit, just use an oil pump, its easy.<p>Rear Differential: Requires the use of an oil pump. I put the car onto ramps to allow easier access. The rear differential only has a fill plug, it is located on the rear side of the differential and can be viewed from the area around the muffler. Remove it, insert the small hose of your oil pump (make sure it is clean) and start pumping. Once you are done, pump a few squirts of fresh oil through the pump and into the waste oil container (to clear out the old fluid in the hoses of your oil pump, and ensure only fresh fluid will be used to fill the rear diff). Then pump the new fluid into the rear diff until it begins to seap out of the fill plug. Install the plug. Capacity is .7L. I used Volvo Rear Axle Fluid (API GL-5 Low friction part #1161620). Requires one aluminum crush washer (same size as engine oil drain plug). <p>Active on Demand Coupling AOC/Haldex: Requires the use of an oil pump. I put the car onto ramps to allow easier access. The AOC only has a fill plug, it is located on the left rear side of the AOC aft of the shiny module that says Haldex on it. Remove it, insert the small hose of your oil pump (make sure it is clean) and start pumping. Once you are done, take a tube of the AOC oil (looks like a tube of caulking) and start squirting it into the fill hole until it begins to seap out of the fill plug. Install the plug. Capacity is .8L. I was only able to extract .6L, so I used two tubes of oil for the refill. I used 2 tubes of Volvo AOC oil for AWD clutch (part #1161641). Requires one aluminum crush washer (same size as engine oil drain plug).<p>I recommend doing all of these fluids at once, just because they all require similar procedures and tools, this way you only have to mess with oil pumps once and not on separate occasions. A few notable items, the fill plug on the tranny is very large (24mm). The rear differential requires a swivel with a 6" extension on your socket. Don't forget the crush washers, they are all the same size as the engine-oil drain plug. As for the oil, I would either use Volvo or another high quality synthetic like Redline. I should note that all of the Volvo fluids pour down to -48 degrees Celsius, which is described on the container of the bevel gear oil as being fully-synthetic. Otherwise the job is pretty straight forward. <p><B>Edit see updated / corrected fluid part number below!</B>

Edit: This thread has been through a lot of iterations with photo hosting sites closing or screwing up. Here's quotes of the key posts:

Parts Numbers for Fluids and Pictures of Removed Fluids:
Between IPD, FCPGroton, and other sources, you can find all the fluids you need.

If you're going to stick with Volvo OEM fluids (highly recommended), then you'll only see a few dollars saved anywhere. The Volvo-brand stuff seems to cost within a couple bucks, just about everywhere you go. Even the dealer.

Expect all of it to cost you about $175 in fluids (7L in total.) For once every 4-5 years, that's pretty reasonable.

Here are the part numbers that I found I had to buy. I bought them from my local Volvo Specialists, in Denver, CO. These are all Volvo, oem, bottles.

31280771 – M66 Manual Transmission (1L container, 2.5L needed) - $23.95/L

31325136 – Haldex/AOC (1L container, 0.8L needed) – $23.95/L (yes, not the 'caulk' type)

31259380 - Bevel Gear (1L container, 1L needed) – $31.95/L

1161620 – Rear Differential (1L container, 1.5L needed) – $21.95/L

I also used the following multi-use pump, specifically designed for moving oils... highly recommend.

http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html

$7, and worked like a charm (and yes, still works). It also comes with some smaller hosing that you can attach to the larger orange hose and really pull all the old oil out. To get the oil out, you have to feed some serious tubing into the hole. The smaller, the better.

YOU WILL HAVE TO PUMP OUT 3 OF THESE 4 OILS TO DO THIS MAINTENANCE.

Took me about 4 hours to do it all. And to do it right. Get yourself some crush washers, you'll want to use new ones (4 of them.) I found some at the local O'Reilly Auto Parts though.

I was shocked at what came out of these. Yes, the Haldex looked really clean coming out, a shade different though. The others.... gross.

This was only at 36,000 miles. 2007 S60R, no real mods.









Pictures should be embedded.... if not, here are the links...

http://www.mediafire.com/view/be8u71es3falib6/BevelGear.jpg

http://www.mediafire.com/view/3329e0z22s5f74o/M66Trans.jpg

http://www.mediafire.com/view/me9tjfqmg1iq39u/RearDiff.jpg

http://www.mediafire.com/view/gg1rmuo2povcihn/AOC.jpg
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...hange-How-To&p=2148108&viewfull=1#post2148108
Thanks TacklaNHL

Pictures of Drain Bolt Locations:
As promised, albeit a bit later than I would have hoped, here are some pictures of my fluid change.

For a guide on changing motor oil, check this out: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?223371-Oil-Change-DIY-for-Those-Who-Are-Afraid-to-DIY

For the transmission:

I used a 24mm (a 15/16" is very close) socket on a 10in extension to reach the fill plug. With the front driver's wheel removed you can see access to this plug with a flashlight:



Note this is a good time to inspect bushings as well - like the worn control arm bushing in the photo above!

Underneath the car there is another 24mm socket to drain the fluid (make sure the fill plug is removable first so that you're not stranded with a dry transmission)

Here is the area where it drains from:



Use a new crush washer on both (all) plugs before replacing:



Next is the angle gear, which is right behind/above the motor oil drain plug. A simple 13mm socket will remove the drain/fill plug with ease:



Unfortunately, after removing the fluid from the angle gear, my mityvac decided it didn't want to hold a vacuum any more, so I had to funnel the fluid in from above (with 3/8" tubing).



I was shocked at how clean the front driveline fluids were, so I am not itching to do the rear ones until I can fix my mitvac. I did get some shots of the plug locations as well. The Haldex unit and rear differential are 13mm plugs as well.




Rear Diff Plug

Note that I used a 6" extension on a 13mm swivel socket (pictured in a post above) for both the Haldex and rear differential last time I did this. I would say that it is necessary on the rear differential, but helplful (not needed) on the Haldex unit.

I also bled my brakes (Using a power bleeder) and did some drain and fills on the coolant as well. If I remember correctly the brake bleeder valves are 11mm. The coolant radiator petcock needs a 13mm deep socket to access it. There is a hole for you to reach the socket into for that locked on the driver's side of the radiator:



You can see it almost lines up with the fog light grill in that photo.

I apologize for the snapchat quality pictures, but that was all I had available the day I performed the fluid changes.
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...hange-How-To&p=2597306&viewfull=1#post2597306
Thanks esmith813
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (JAGMAN)

Great write up!<p>I have few questions though to you and everyone else:<br>Do you know if the fluids used at factory were synthetic? <br>What is your recommended change interval (normal mix city/hwy driving)?<br>Is there a write up on A/T (GT) fluid change?<br><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by duchski at 9:09 AM 7-2-2007</i>
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (duchski)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>duchski</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great write up!<p>I have few questions though to you and everyone else:<br>Do you know if the fluids used at factory were synthetic? <br>What is your recommended change interval (normal mix city/hwy driving)?<br>Is there a write up on A/T (GT) fluid change?<p><i>Modified by duchski at 8:47 AM 7-2-2007</i></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Some of the factory fill is definitely synthetic. 6MT/Bevel Gear/AOC are for sure. I am unsure as to whether the rear diff oil is. <p>I would say that 50K is a reasonable change interval. The oil is pretty expensive. ~$100 in oil to do the whole system on a 6MT (a bit more on a GT). DIY is free. To have this same service done at the dealer would likely cost $500-$1000. I would recommend the Volvo oil just because you know it is correct. Otherwise I would use Redline,etc. However, I would ONLY use Volvo oil in the Bevel Gear and AOC, because most other company's don't make the correct spec oil.<p>As for GT write-ups, I'll let someone else answer that.
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (JAGMAN)

Needsdecaf.... Can you make this thread a sticky in the FAQ section?
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (duchski)

I could not find it either. Thanks for reposting it.
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (JAGMAN)

Jagman,<p>I am about to change the oil in the Bevel and rear differential. Thanks for your complete descriptions. I have one question from someone who is doing this for the first time. I have one pair of ramps and the car will not be level when I am under it doing the oil replacement. Is this a concern when filling the components? If so what is your solution? <p>Thanks for your reply.
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (JAGMAN)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>JAGMAN</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Some of the factory fill is definitely synthetic. 6MT/Bevel Gear/AOC are for sure. I am unsure as to whether the rear diff oil is. <p>I would say that 50K is a reasonable change interval. The oil is pretty expensive. ~$100 in oil to do the whole system on a 6MT (a bit more on a GT). DIY is free. To have this same service done at the dealer would likely cost $500-$1000. I would recommend the Volvo oil just because you know it is correct. Otherwise I would use Redline,etc. However, I would ONLY use Volvo oil in the Bevel Gear and AOC, because most other company's don't make the correct spec oil.<br>As for GT write-ups, I'll let someone else answer that. </TD></TR></TABLE><p><br>James, Thanks for the write up.....<p>I just changed all the fluids out today <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>I had a local independent Volvo shop do it, and they charged $260 for all the fluids changed including the cost of the Haldex fluid. I brought in my own fluid for the MT,Rear Diff,Angle Gear.<p>I am having the Rear Differential,Angle Gear,Haldex fluid all analyzed to find out what their composition,additive package,weight, everything about the fluid etc..... I'll post the results on the forum when I find out the results <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>I agree about the lifetime fluid <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> word of warning do not! I mean do not go beyond 50k without changing all your fluids out. I have 50k on my car as well and after the mechanic showed me the fluids in the sample containers I provided to him <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0"> they were dingy & dark and would definitely not last the lifetime of ouR caRs <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> I'm anxious to hear the results from the lab tests.
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (duchski)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>duchski</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Needsdecaf.... Can you make this thread a sticky in the FAQ section?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Done.
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (JAGMAN)

Great write-up. There are a lot of folks who have questioned the utility of changing fluid, claiming it's "old school" and applies to older Volvos only. This is plain wrong -- one only has to compare wear tolerances and failure rates to understand that very little has changed over the years.<p>Regrettably, I must withhold kudos to Volvo. Not putting a drain plug on something as vital as a transmission or axle is not very bright. <p>Also, one look at the angle gear indicates that there's quite a lot of wear to this component. (Nope, that's not moly you're seeing, it's metal filings.)<p>Kudos to JAGMAN for taking the time to post his observations. I would "second" his recommendations wrt fluid changes. There's no such thing as "lifetime fluid", unless that life is relatively short.
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (JAGMAN)

Two points:<p>The correct AWD rear axle/final drive fluid part number is: 1161620. <p>(the part number quoted in JAGMAN's post is the rear axle fluid for all RWD Volvo's)<p>Volvo has updated the part number for the Active on Demand Coupling AOC/Haldex fluid. The new part number is: 30759648<p>John Sharisky<p><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by Parts @ Boston Volvo at 7:52 AM 10-11-2007</i>
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (Parts @ Boston Volvo)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Parts @ Boston Volvo</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Two points:<p>The correct AWD rear axle/final drive fluid part number is: 1161620. <p>(the part number quoted above is the rear axle fluid for all RWD Volvo's)<p>Volvo has updated the part number for the Active on Demand Coupling AOC/Haldex fluid. The new part number is: 30759648<p>John Sharisky</TD></TR></TABLE><p>I just checked the bottle of oil I have in the garage for the rear axle oil. It is part # 1161620. However, there is a paper sticker over that part number that reads 1161329. Any explanation? <p>I was nervous for a second that I'd used the wrong part #. I've edited the big post at the top and it now shows #1161620 as the correct fluid for the rear axle. <p>Lastly, for those interested the following will help decide what oil to use:<br><IMG SRC="http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l64/JAGMAN06/401.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (JAGMAN)

<br><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>JAGMAN</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...However, there is a paper sticker over that part number that reads 1161329. Any explanation?...</TD></TR></TABLE><p>None. These two part numbers do not interchange.<p>John<p>
 

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Re: Complete Fluid Change How-To: (JAGMAN)

Perfect timing for me, as I just flipped 50K miles. <br>Thanks for the detailed post! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Can anyone advise?

My 2004 v70r GT is nearing 50k, and I'm preparing to change the transmission, bevel gear, rear differential, and AOC/Haldex fluids. I've believe I've found less expensive equivalents (some of which may be better) for all of the Volvo fluids, except I have no idea what would be an equivalent to the AOC/Haldex oil (Volvo part 1161641, reportedly nka part 30759648). If anyone can suggest a third party equivalent for the AOC/Haldex oil or a source for this Volvo oil that would be cheaper than my dealer, please do. Finally, although I'm definitely going to change my transmission, bevel gear, and rear differential fluids soon, considering that Jagman found his AOC/Haldex oil to be "pretty clear", I'm wondering whether it's even worth it to change that fluid now. Thoughts?
 

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Can anyone recommend a good oil pump that will work with these fluid changing procedures?<p>Something like this maybe?<br><A HREF="http://www.costplustools.com/store-products-Di...city_46549.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.costplustools.com/s....html</A><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by juve021 at 6:33 AM 5-12-2008</i>
 

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Re: (juve021)

That Mityvac looks like a very useful unit and it's a bit cheaper than this one:<p><A HREF="http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+maintenance/oil+changes/hand+pump+oil+-+liquid+extractor.do" TARGET="_blank">http://www.griotsgarage.com/pr...or.do</A>,<p>which appears to be an extractor only.
 

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Re: (juve021)

Great write-up, never seen this one before!<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>juve021</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone recommend a good oil pump that will work with these fluid changing procedures?<p>Something like this maybe?<br><A HREF="http://www.costplustools.com/store-products-Di...city_46549.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.costplustools.com/s....html</A><p><br><i>Modified by juve021 at 6:33 AM 5-12-2008</i></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Also, that Mityvac is a bit cheaper with free shipping thru amazon, $66:<br><A HREF="http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC" TARGET="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-...SR7TC</A><p>-Aaron<p>EDIT: Removed 2nd link to the "cheaper" evacutor since it was evac-only.<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by AaronSoto at 7:34 AM 5-23-2008</i>
 

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Re: (AaronSoto)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>AaronSoto</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great write-up, never seen this one before!<p>Also, that Mityvac is a bit cheaper with free shipping thru amazon, $66:<br><A HREF="http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC" TARGET="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-...SR7TC</A><p>And they have another model that looks a bit lower-end for $52:<br><A HREF="http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14" TARGET="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-...FJM14</A><p>-Aaron</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Not sure you can pump in liquids with the cheaper model, hence why its cheaper? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (juve021)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>juve021</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Not sure you can pump in liquids with the cheaper model, hence why its cheaper? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>You are right, good catch, I will edit my post to remove the 2nd one...<br>-Aaron<br>
 

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Re: (AaronSoto)

So my car has only 4000 miles but it was bought in Virginia and up here in Canada it gets a hell of a lot colder than it does there. I heard of a guy that brought a car from California up to Canada and all of his hoses blew in the winter due to the liquids freezing and I don’t want this to happen to me. <p>Anyway, what fluids do I need to change? Obviously oil is getting changed to synthetic, but what others do I need to change to prevent them from freezing in the winter time?<br>
 
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