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Complete electronics shut down.

897 Views 15 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  ZZZZZZZ
Hi all,

There are no functioning electronic systems on my 2004 V70R, M66. The only thing that works is the radio, and I can hear the fuel pump whirring when I turn the key, but no dash lights, hazards, power to windows, nor power to seats, and it will not crank. There are no signs of life when you insert and turn the key, other than the fuel pump. There is fuel at the valve on the engine.

The car died instantly while driving, luckily slowly in my neighborhood and not on the highway. The tach froze at 1900 rpm, the fuel gauge froze in place, and the car stopped dead in its tracks with a whooomph!

I removed all valuables (windows are open) and let it sit overnight where it was. In the morning, the tach had dropped to zero, and the fuel gauge was at rest. I turned the key and it cranked but didn't start the first time, but it did the second, for about 4-5 seconds, then died the same way. Tach now frozen at 1600 rpm, fuel gauge frozen at 2/5, fuel pump whirring, but no other signs of life. It's been two weeks since this happened, and the tach still reads 1600 rpm, and the fuel gauge still reads 2/5.
The battery is good. There is power to the relay under the hood that provides power to the ? (ECM?) under the hood, just in front of the power steering reservoir. There is no power at OBD2, therefore no way to connect VIDA. Dealer had the car for a week, and have no answers. Battery was disconnected and fuses were checked. They suggest a new car! All systems are functioning properly on the car other than this electronics issue, and I want to keep the car. Any thoughts as to what might be malfunctioning?

Anyone have any experience with Xemodex? They have a reasonable fee to test modules, and can transfer data to remanufactured modules if needed. Has anyone had any experience with them? Did everything work as expected?

Thanks, and stay well.
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1 - 2 of 16 Posts
As EE do not think that ALL modules would fail at the same time. Think I would investigate power distribution from the battery as it the common part for all electronic and electrical components.
I'd somewhat similar problem with different car, when modules were randomly at fault for periods of time and after re-start different elements were shown as faulted in diagnostic laptop. Found bad (all rusted and bolt loose at negative connection between battery and body. Cleaning and re-tightening each and every visible electrical connection fixed ALL the problems.
Power distribution for all modules are in "parallel" to 12 VDC. And common connections (also parallel) are communication bus(es) to allow ODBC connector to read all CPUs. When fuse has blown waiting till next day would change nothing... I would check if any of CPUs you can reach gets hot and may be shorts battery causing voltage drop to other CPUs. So when car is "dead" measure voltage across battery and compare to normal car OFF volatge. Years back I had issue with Ford Crown Victoria ignition module would stop working after it gets hot and start working again when cooled down. Good luck
1 - 2 of 16 Posts
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