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Complete electronics shut down.

900 Views 15 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  ZZZZZZZ
Hi all,

There are no functioning electronic systems on my 2004 V70R, M66. The only thing that works is the radio, and I can hear the fuel pump whirring when I turn the key, but no dash lights, hazards, power to windows, nor power to seats, and it will not crank. There are no signs of life when you insert and turn the key, other than the fuel pump. There is fuel at the valve on the engine.

The car died instantly while driving, luckily slowly in my neighborhood and not on the highway. The tach froze at 1900 rpm, the fuel gauge froze in place, and the car stopped dead in its tracks with a whooomph!

I removed all valuables (windows are open) and let it sit overnight where it was. In the morning, the tach had dropped to zero, and the fuel gauge was at rest. I turned the key and it cranked but didn't start the first time, but it did the second, for about 4-5 seconds, then died the same way. Tach now frozen at 1600 rpm, fuel gauge frozen at 2/5, fuel pump whirring, but no other signs of life. It's been two weeks since this happened, and the tach still reads 1600 rpm, and the fuel gauge still reads 2/5.
The battery is good. There is power to the relay under the hood that provides power to the ? (ECM?) under the hood, just in front of the power steering reservoir. There is no power at OBD2, therefore no way to connect VIDA. Dealer had the car for a week, and have no answers. Battery was disconnected and fuses were checked. They suggest a new car! All systems are functioning properly on the car other than this electronics issue, and I want to keep the car. Any thoughts as to what might be malfunctioning?

Anyone have any experience with Xemodex? They have a reasonable fee to test modules, and can transfer data to remanufactured modules if needed. Has anyone had any experience with them? Did everything work as expected?

Thanks, and stay well.
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As EE do not think that ALL modules would fail at the same time. Think I would investigate power distribution from the battery as it the common part for all electronic and electrical components.
I'd somewhat similar problem with different car, when modules were randomly at fault for periods of time and after re-start different elements were shown as faulted in diagnostic laptop. Found bad (all rusted and bolt loose at negative connection between battery and body. Cleaning and re-tightening each and every visible electrical connection fixed ALL the problems.
I'll recheck ground bolts. It's in California and has zero rust. Does seem like a "main fuse" or "main breaker" type failure. I just don't know if the failure of one module could cause a series failure (or no power) to downstream modules, or are all the modules in parallel? Ground to battery is tight and clean, both ends. I will also look for wires worn through near rotating parts. There is power to the fuse box under the hood though.
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. With multimeter in hand, I'll continue to look for a short, or a bad ground before sending out the modules and keys (to Xemodex). And I'll take "good luck" anytime!
Will report back with conclusions.
Problem Solved!
How embarrassing, all it needed was a new battery. My wife had the other car yesterday so I couldn't get a new battery until today. I bought a Duralast Platinum H6-AGM Group 48, for $259.44 from Autozone, and will get $22 back for the old battery. The tach and gas gauge immediately dropped to zero upon connecting the new battery, and my pride and joy 2004 V70R M66 started right up! What a relief. First thing I did was close the windows, after 2 weeks+ open.
Two weeks ago, when it died and then started again in the morning, then promptly died again, with nothing but the fuel pump and radio working, I thought the battery was good at 12.5v and it must be something else. The tow truck driver put his electronic gadget on the terminal under the hood and didn't think it was a battery issue. The dealer had it a week, and said they charged the battery overnight and didn't think it was a battery issue either. Prior to sending the car to the dealer, I too charged the battery overnight, and it seemed steady at c.12.6_ volts, but there is (now) obviously something malfunctioning inside the battery. What a bizarrely simple solution. KISS
To everyone who spent time to comment and who exerted mental energy thinking about this problem, thank you so very much. I hope this simple solution rings loud the next time you experience, or hear about electronic issues in a Volvo, or any other car. I now know that a voltmeter/multimeter doesn't cut the mustard when it comes to determining battery condition. Maybe a load tester would have been more revealing, but I didn't have one.
Now I will need to check that the alternator is working properly. Thanks again everyone.
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With the new battery fully charged, VIDA in real time gives 14.3v at idle with just the bixenon lights on. It drops to a steady 13.6v (at idle) with as many accessories on as I can think of. Battery read 12.75v before starting.
I bought a Schumacher Electric 100 Amp Capacity Battery Load Tester (it's in the mail) and will check regularly for the foreseeable future.
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