Complete electronics shut down.

903 Views 15 Replies 9 Participants Last post by ZZZZZZZ, Feb 11, 2022

imaV70Rdriver

Discussion Starter · Feb 5, 2022

Hi all,

There are no functioning electronic systems on my 2004 V70R, M66. The only thing that works is the radio, and I can hear the fuel pump whirring when I turn the key, but no dash lights, hazards, power to windows, nor power to seats, and it will not crank. There are no signs of life when you insert and turn the key, other than the fuel pump. There is fuel at the valve on the engine.

The car died instantly while driving, luckily slowly in my neighborhood and not on the highway. The tach froze at 1900 rpm, the fuel gauge froze in place, and the car stopped dead in its tracks with a whooomph!

I removed all valuables (windows are open) and let it sit overnight where it was. In the morning, the tach had dropped to zero, and the fuel gauge was at rest. I turned the key and it cranked but didn't start the first time, but it did the second, for about 4-5 seconds, then died the same way. Tach now frozen at 1600 rpm, fuel gauge frozen at 2/5, fuel pump whirring, but no other signs of life. It's been two weeks since this happened, and the tach still reads 1600 rpm, and the fuel gauge still reads 2/5.
The battery is good. There is power to the relay under the hood that provides power to the ? (ECM?) under the hood, just in front of the power steering reservoir. There is no power at OBD2, therefore no way to connect VIDA. Dealer had the car for a week, and have no answers. Battery was disconnected and fuses were checked. They suggest a new car! All systems are functioning properly on the car other than this electronics issue, and I want to keep the car. Any thoughts as to what might be malfunctioning?

Anyone have any experience with Xemodex? They have a reasonable fee to test modules, and can transfer data to remanufactured modules if needed. Has anyone had any experience with them? Did everything work as expected?

Thanks, and stay well.

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BorD

· #2 · Feb 6, 2022

As EE do not think that ALL modules would fail at the same time. Think I would investigate power distribution from the battery as it the common part for all electronic and electrical components.
I'd somewhat similar problem with different car, when modules were randomly at fault for periods of time and after re-start different elements were shown as faulted in diagnostic laptop. Found bad (all rusted and bolt loose at negative connection between battery and body. Cleaning and re-tightening each and every visible electrical connection fixed ALL the problems.

imaV70Rdriver

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 6, 2022

BorD said:
As EE do not think that ALL modules would fail at the same time. Think I would investigate power distribution from the battery as it the common part for all electronic and electrical components.
I'd somewhat similar problem with different car, when modules were randomly at fault for periods of time and after re-start different elements were shown as faulted in diagnostic laptop. Found bad (all rusted and bolt loose at negative connection between battery and body. Cleaning and re-tightening each and every visible electrical connection fixed ALL the problems.

I'll recheck ground bolts. It's in California and has zero rust. Does seem like a "main fuse" or "main breaker" type failure. I just don't know if the failure of one module could cause a series failure (or no power) to downstream modules, or are all the modules in parallel? Ground to battery is tight and clean, both ends. I will also look for wires worn through near rotating parts. There is power to the fuse box under the hood though.

BorD

· #4 · Feb 6, 2022

Power distribution for all modules are in "parallel" to 12 VDC. And common connections (also parallel) are communication bus(es) to allow ODBC connector to read all CPUs. When fuse has blown waiting till next day would change nothing... I would check if any of CPUs you can reach gets hot and may be shorts battery causing voltage drop to other CPUs. So when car is "dead" measure voltage across battery and compare to normal car OFF volatge. Years back I had issue with Ford Crown Victoria ignition module would stop working after it gets hot and start working again when cooled down. Good luck

tired95855

· #5 · Feb 6, 2022

This happened to me once. Ended up being a short in the wiring for the coil packs/main engine harness. Exposed wires were grounding out. Worth a shot.

z_wrecker

· #6 · Feb 6, 2022

They suggest a new car? Sure it’s like a pack of gum, gimme 3.

Sounds like there might be a short somewhere or possibly some wires touching and creating a short. If your battery is good and it is reading properly I would check for loose ground connectors. Sometimes they might look like they are tight and secured properly but they might be pulled out and just being held in place by insulation. Can you test the battery with the multimeter? Fuel pump priming is a positive.

I would also call around to a few independents and see if they might have an idea or at least willing to take a look for a flat fee.

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bigtimemcalpine

· #7 · Feb 6, 2022

That’s happened to me 2x in my driving lifetime. Both times it was a loose connection on battery. Looked fine but was not. Either that or a short for sure. Good luck!

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Deerock

· #8 · Feb 6, 2022

Generic suggestion here.

Strange that the fuel pump has power but it seems nothing else does. Does anything else work? (interior lighting, etc)

I would check the wiring diagrams.

First, check the fuel pump circuit in the diagram to see how it is powered. Then check the circuit and all connections between the battery, alternator, and main fuse/distribution block. Compare how the fuel pump is powered vs everything else. It may point you in the right direction.

imaV70Rdriver

Discussion Starter · #9 · Feb 6, 2022

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. With multimeter in hand, I'll continue to look for a short, or a bad ground before sending out the modules and keys (to Xemodex). And I'll take "good luck" anytime!
Will report back with conclusions.

Coop R

· #10 · Feb 7, 2022

My dad had this happen to him in his P1R. When turning the car on (would start normally), all the lights were off. No headlights, tail lights, interior nothing. He moved the key back a smidge and viola all the lights were back as if having the key too far forwards in the on position cut the lights off. Weird stuff, maybe give it a shot.

JeremyR

· #11 · Feb 8, 2022

I suspect the CEM, central electronics module. Xemodex should have a test chart, pretty basic. Can you connect to the car with a scanner or Vida at all. I suspect modules are missing or more. The cem connects all systems, some modules are known to overheat.

Of course check the other basics and look over the wires for anything obvious.

ZZZZZZZ

· #12 · Feb 8, 2022

He said connecting VIDA no deal, but I agree. Sending all the modules out would suck if they came back and got fried again. If things were working ok before, something has to have shorted. Good luck finding it. This is 9 thousand times worse than going through a long strand of Christmas lights to find the bad bulb. I also agree with @z_wrecker that power to the fuel pump is a good sign.

JeremyR said:
I suspect the CEM, central electronics module. Xemodex should have a test chart, pretty basic. Can you connect to the car with a scanner or Vida at all. I suspect modules are missing or more. The cem connects all systems, some modules are known to overheat.

Of course check the other basics and look over the wires for anything obvious.

imaV70Rdriver

Discussion Starter · #13 · Feb 9, 2022

Problem Solved!
How embarrassing, all it needed was a new battery. My wife had the other car yesterday so I couldn't get a new battery until today. I bought a Duralast Platinum H6-AGM Group 48, for $259.44 from Autozone, and will get $22 back for the old battery. The tach and gas gauge immediately dropped to zero upon connecting the new battery, and my pride and joy 2004 V70R M66 started right up! What a relief. First thing I did was close the windows, after 2 weeks+ open.
Two weeks ago, when it died and then started again in the morning, then promptly died again, with nothing but the fuel pump and radio working, I thought the battery was good at 12.5v and it must be something else. The tow truck driver put his electronic gadget on the terminal under the hood and didn't think it was a battery issue. The dealer had it a week, and said they charged the battery overnight and didn't think it was a battery issue either. Prior to sending the car to the dealer, I too charged the battery overnight, and it seemed steady at c.12.6_ volts, but there is (now) obviously something malfunctioning inside the battery. What a bizarrely simple solution. KISS
To everyone who spent time to comment and who exerted mental energy thinking about this problem, thank you so very much. I hope this simple solution rings loud the next time you experience, or hear about electronic issues in a Volvo, or any other car. I now know that a voltmeter/multimeter doesn't cut the mustard when it comes to determining battery condition. Maybe a load tester would have been more revealing, but I didn't have one.
Now I will need to check that the alternator is working properly. Thanks again everyone.

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ZZZZZZZ

· #14 · Feb 9, 2022

Yeah alternator is a good thing to check. Under load hit it hard with stereo, fogs, seat heater, a/c (I think you said Cali, right? 84 in LA tomorrow!!), defrost, whatever you can turn on. If it flinches it’s alternator that screwed you. I was going to say battery and alternator (ask me how I know) but you said battery was good and then it was at the frickin’ dealer. You need a new dealer. I would be VERY leery of using them for anything in the future if they were that lost. Hope they didn’t charge much.
REALLY happy you got it sorted!!

imaV70Rdriver

Discussion Starter · #15 · Feb 11, 2022

With the new battery fully charged, VIDA in real time gives 14.3v at idle with just the bixenon lights on. It drops to a steady 13.6v (at idle) with as many accessories on as I can think of. Battery read 12.75v before starting.
I bought a Schumacher Electric 100 Amp Capacity Battery Load Tester (it's in the mail) and will check regularly for the foreseeable future.

ZZZZZZZ

· #16 · Feb 11, 2022

Yes, I think mine is 13.7 with stuff running at idle.

imaV70Rdriver said:
With the new battery fully charged, VIDA in real time gives 14.3v at idle with just the bixenon lights on. It drops to a steady 13.6v (at idle) with as many accessories on as I can think of. Battery read 12.75v before starting.
I bought a Schumacher Electric 100 Amp Capacity Battery Load Tester (it's in the mail) and will check regularly for the foreseeable future.

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