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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone, I'd like to formally introduce myself to this forum. As the title implies, I’m a college student who picked up a 2006 V70R around the end of July. I had been in the market for a new car and had looked at a couple of C30s including a really nice manual R-Design but hadn’t specifically considered an R before as they were hard to find and could be expensive to maintain. I was browsing Craigslist one morning and saw this car popup about 2 hours away from me. It piqued my interest because it was an R and seemed pretty clean from the photos and a decent deal for the price he was asking. I knew this car would sell fast so I made the 2-hour drive up there with my dad the same day to check it out. We had a vague idea of some of the larger problems that can plague these cars and after checking it out determined that for 167,000 miles, the car seemed to be in really good shape. Another benefit we noticed was according to the CarFax the transmission had been replaced by the dealer at around 100,000 miles so it was reassuring to know that one of the larger problem areas was likely to be in sound condition.


After a bit of negotiating, I bought the car for $5500. Drove it back down to where I live through LA traffic and had pretty much no problems. One of the only large outstanding problems the car came with was the dreaded “Chassis Setting Service Required” error. Because of this, my headlights were pointed almost directly to the ground which made the last 30 minutes or so of nighttime driving somewhat precarious.


I was really happy with the deal I got and thought I made out pretty well. I absolutely love the look of these cars and never really imagined myself owning one at this stage so I was pretty happy.


The next day I discovered this amazing forum and began to do a lot of research about all the preventative maintenance that should be done to these cars to ensure they stay as trouble-free as possible. I started with the basics, new air filter, new cabin air filter, oil change, fuel filter etc… Next, it seemed like one of the most important ways to ensure the TF80-SC continues to shift smoothly is having clean oil. So I did a trans flush and while I was at it also changed the angle gear fluid and made sure it wasn’t leaking. During this time I had the car up on ramps for a couple of days and noticed the front left tire seemed to have deflated quite a bit. I filled it up but realized the day after it had deflated again. When I was under the car changing the angle gear fluid I happened to glance over at the tire and realize there was a large slash across the inside wall which meant it was time for a new set of tires. I wasn’t very happy about this as I didn’t expect to spend that type of money for a new set of tires so soon after buying the car. But I tried to find the silver lining and told myself at least now I wouldn’t have to worry about tires for another year or two.


At this point, I was about 4 weeks into the ownership of my car and was still super happy with it. I picked up a copy of Vida as everyone said it would be your best friend when trying to diagnose 4C errors. I planned to do more service items over the next month or two but felt that I had the car in a pretty good spot.


As of this point I had never really “pushed” the car and was taking it easy and trying to get to know it. But I felt decently comfortable with it and decided to see what the power felt like. I was at a stoplight and eased into the throttle in manual shifting mode and went to shift into second around 5500 and almost immediately after shifting I noticed what looked like water on the lower right corner of the windshield and got a low coolant light.


Luckily I was less than a mile from home so took it very slow the whole way watching the coolant temp gauge the entire time to make sure it didn’t overheat. Got home, stopped the car, popped the hood, and noticed that the upper silicone IPD radiator hose had split and thus dumped all the coolant. At first, I didn’t think much of it but started doing more reading and realized this was a telltale sign of a cracked block.


I was pretty devastated when I started reading about this catastrophic failure and how common it is on so many of these cars. Thinking maybe I got lucky and it was just an old hose I bought a new radiator hose, filled it up with OEM coolant, and got a coolant gas test kit to check for exhaust fumes in the coolant system. After running the test and doing more reading I was pretty much convinced the block had cracked.


I was kind of at a loss for what to do. I knew that if I wanted to fix the car it was going to be quite expensive. At the same time I also really didn’t want to sell it. I had driven the car less than 300 miles and felt I never even got to truly enjoy it. I knew I wouldn’t be able to find another one for this price that was in as good of shape as I feel this car is. So I’ve decided to fix it.


After reading lots of threads and help from various members on this forum I’ve decided to swap in a B5244T5. I got the motor last week and just got around to checking out the overall condition of it this weekend but plan on doing a complete rebuild.


I decided to start this thread because I thought it would be a great way to document this process and also mainly because I know I’m going to have a lottttt of questions that I’ll need help with lol. I’ve never done anything like this and fully expect it to take a few months (and cost a lot) but I’m looking forward to it and hope y’all won’t mind helping me along the way.


Thanks!

-Ben



Wheel Car Tire Automotive side marker light Automotive parking light

(Haven't gotten the chance to take any good pics of the car yet)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Alright so, first issue I’m running into. I got the motor up on my stand this weekend and the first thing I was gonna do was run a leak-down test just to make sure that the condition of the motor was “good enough” for a rebuild. The salvage yard I bought it from said they ran the car before they parted it out. I figured it would be best to verify everything before completely tearing it apart and voiding their 30-day warranty.


So, I set cylinder 1 at TDC, did this by putting a long 3/8s extension down the spark plug hole and started turning the crank over via the 30mm crank pulley nut and stopped once the extension had stopped rising. Hooked up my leak down tester and it showed almost 60% leakage. I could hear and feel air flowing out of the exhaust ports on the head. Thinking I might have missed TDC, I repeated this process like 5 times just for cylinder 1 and could never get results better than 40% leakage. I had someone hold the crank pulley with a breaker bar to make sure the piston wasn’t getting pushed down with the compressed air. These results were pretty much the same across all 5 cylinders with the average leakage seeming to be between 40% to 60%. The lowest I got was on cylinder 3 which was about 20%.


Obviously, these results seem terrible to me so I feel like I have to be doing something wrong. The other thing I will say is that it seems like the timing belt and water pump were replaced recently judging by their condition. I guess my suspicion is whoever did the job did not properly align/lock the cams and it jumped timing and bent the valves. I also noticed that the rear camshaft slot where you would position a cam locking tool is chipped and someone has clearly taken this apart before.


However, with all that being said the engine appears to currently be in time now. The marks on the cam pulleys line up the marks on the plastic cover and the mark on the crankshaft appears to line up as well. I also do not feel any interference when I turn the engine over.


So I guess I’m wondering what y’all think. The salvage yard I bought the motor from does offer a 30-day warranty so I’m fairly confident I could get my money back and just try to find a different motor. I’ve attached some pictures to hopefully help clarify some things. I appreciate any input, thanks!


(Chipped Intake Cam)
Sky Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive design
 

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2004 V70R
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You could be trying to test in on an exhaust stroke? If that was the case you would be able to feel/hear the air coming out the exhaust port for that cylinder, but not the intake. Personally the busted cam would probably be enough for me to want to find a different one, but it also wouldn't affect your engine running I don't think. Those slots are only used for the cam holding tool and the cam position sensors.

Is your plan to rebuild the whole engine? If so, some bent valves and leaky rings aren't really a big deal. Valves are ~15 bucks each and you would be getting new rings anyways. If one of your cylinders or something is out of round I'm not sure you'd be able to tell that before you had it torn apart in the machine shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You could be trying to test in on an exhaust stroke? If that was the case you would be able to feel/hear the air coming out the exhaust port for that cylinder, but not the intake
That's what I was thinking also but I rotated the engine over a few times and was getting the same results after each cycle.

I would be doing a full rebuild but I guess my concern is judging by the condition of what I've seen so far who knows what else I might find. Think I'm going to call the salvage yard tomorrow and see if we can work out some sort of deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Borescope it and look for marks from the valves on the pistons or valves that aren't closed. May also be able to see from the ports?
Yea I have an inspection camera coming tomorrow. Very interested to see what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm in East County San Diego! And yea what I keep telling myself is at least at the end of all this I'll have a motor with zero miles on it that I'll be able to throw some mods at in the future :)
 

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Time the engine and make sure like another member said your not on the exhaust stroke, first 2.4 I rebuilt while in school I was having the same issues and my instructor laughed and said hey buddy what are you doing wrong. I stepped back got a red face and said idk, he turned the motor over and said try it now, sure enough I had like 10% leak and he goes so what did you do wrong lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
(Sorry about the large gaps between photos not sure why the post is doing that. If anyone knows how to edit the post so it doesn't look like that lmk)

Alright, I think before I get too deep into this I should first make sure I'm looking at the correct timing marks.

Here are the marks on the cams that I was assuming are the correct timing marks. When I line these marks up with the slots on the plastic cover, everything seems to line up fine including the crank marks.

(Exhaust Side)
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Locking hubs

(Intake Side, kinda hard to see but there is a mark there)
Automotive tire Tire Tread Wheel Motor vehicle

(Crank timing mark)
Stairs Automotive lighting Gas Tints and shades Flash photography

(kinda hard to tell from this picture but the marks do line up with the plastic cover)
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Locking hubs Rim Automotive wheel system


Now before I did any research I saw these markings on the cams and assumed they were the timing marks cause they seem like they would be. However, after watching some videos and looking at some photos it seems like the less defined marks (the images I have above) more closely resemble what the timing marks should look like. So, I wanna make sure I'm looking at the right thing here. If the images I have below are in the fact correct timing marks then the engine is definitely out of time as these marks never even get close to lining up.

Automotive tire Bicycle part Tread Gear Rim


Automotive tire Gear Crankset Bicycle part Rim
 

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The 2.4 I worked on if memory serves me had arrows but I'm almost going to bet all my crypto on the fact that the markings with 2 dots right and left are your timing marks, does the engine feel abnormally difficult to rotate? It should feel pretty free with a slight bit of resistance if your reefing on it your timing it way off be careful! I hate interference motors but if you just take your time find a good write up of a timing job you will be fine. Idk if you have the cam locking tools or not but if your going to do stuff like this make sure you have them or can make something that will work
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The 2.4 I worked on if memory serves me had arrows but I'm almost going to bet all my crypto on the fact that the markings with 2 dots right and left are your timing marks, does the engine feel abnormally difficult to rotate? It should feel pretty free with a slight bit of resistance if your reefing on it your timing it way off be careful! I hate interference motors but if you just take your time find a good write up of a timing job you will be fine. Idk if you have the cam locking tools or not but if your going to do stuff like this make sure you have them or can make something that will work
The engine rotates pretty smoothly. Doesn’t really feel like the valves are hitting. However I did get a chance to put an inspection camera down the spark plug hole and can see where the valves have clearly hit the top of the piston.
I’ll post some more photos later but here’s and example of what I saw across all 5 cylinders.

Fluid Cookware and bakeware Recipe Dish Cuisine

(Left side is exhaust right side is intake)

It’s my understanding that the pistons have intake valve relief cuts but those cuts seem pretty large to me so I’m not sure what to think.
 

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Aw man… I’m sorry to hear about your luck with the car in such a short time… if you have some tools or can get some where you are, try this…

Do you have the cam covers off of the engine? If you have a set of feeler gauges, I would try to fit a larger-than-spec feeler gauge between the valve stems and cam lobes. You’d have to look up the measurement spec for clearance between tappets and lobes, but that’s one more “technical” way that you can check for bent valves without pulling the head. You’ll need feeler gauges as the spec is usually in the thousandths of an inch range.

Also, as far as auto wreckers go, NEVER give them the benefit of the doubt. The only thing you could do at this point to get it returned and find another would be to argue that you were promised it ran without issue. This engine obviously is not without issue.
 

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Definitely looks like valve contact to me. I’m 99% sure the intake side is just the normal valve relief (been a while since I had a head off one of these motors). It’s entirely possible that those are from a previous timing belt failure, but it might have been in the junkyard because of a botched timing job. More like, they were hoping a new belt and pulleys would fix it. Not the case with an interference engine.
I would try to work out a deal with the yard for some kind of discount. You’ve already got a good engine, but obviously you would need to do a bit more work than anticipated. If it indeed has bent valves, that’s a relatively easy fix if everything is apart anyway.

Looks like a nice car though, it’s certainly worth saving! Don’t crush them like I do 😂
 

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The engine rotates pretty smoothly. Doesn’t really feel like the valves are hitting. However I did get a chance to put an inspection camera down the spark plug hole and can see where the valves have clearly hit the top of the piston.
I’ll post some more photos later but here’s and example of what I saw across all 5 cylinders.

View attachment 137461
(Left side is exhaust right side is intake)

It’s my understanding that the pistons have intake valve relief cuts but those cuts seem pretty large to me so I’m not sure what to think.
Yea I suspected as soon as I seen those white paint lines and another member said your crank timing looked off, first time I rebuilt one of these engines it took me 1 day go disassemble everything and setting pieces aside, another day to remove all the valves and clean them and put them back in and put everything back together. After that took me 2 days to figure out what I was doing when timing the engine lol so it's easy to mess up at first.

It wouldn't surprise me that a junkyard wouldn't know it wasn't timed properly and yes a car can actually run for a while without bending a valve when it's out of time, extreme loss of power. I seen this at a shop I worked. Not saying all interference engines can do that, but it's possible!

If you do tear the motor down you might as well shim it as well so your walls don't crack that seems to be what everyone does before tuning.

Wish I was closer I would come help, best of luck to you! Don't give up keep chugging a long! It's a rewarding feeling once everything is all done.
 

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Nah the painted over marks are the way to go. However, if the timing belt has been changed what TDC actually is can be a crapshoot because the cam sprocket position has nothing to do with cam position. If the belt is original chances are TDC=TDC

The other wider things are not timing marks.

(Sorry about the large gaps between photos not sure why the post is doing that. If anyone knows how to edit the post so it doesn't look like that lmk)

Alright, I think before I get too deep into this I should first make sure I'm looking at the correct timing marks.

Here are the marks on the cams that I was assuming are the correct timing marks. When I line these marks up with the slots on the plastic cover, everything seems to line up fine including the crank marks.

(Exhaust Side)
View attachment 137438
(Intake Side, kinda hard to see but there is a mark there)
View attachment 137439
(Crank timing mark)
View attachment 137442
(kinda hard to tell from this picture but the marks do line up with the plastic cover)
View attachment 137445

Now before I did any research I saw these markings on the cams and assumed they were the timing marks cause they seem like they would be. However, after watching some videos and looking at some photos it seems like the less defined marks (the images I have above) more closely resemble what the timing marks should look like. So, I wanna make sure I'm looking at the right thing here. If the images I have below are in the fact correct timing marks then the engine is definitely out of time as these marks never even get close to lining up.

View attachment 137440

View attachment 137441
 
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