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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a 1966 122s in Denver a month ago and drove it back to Atlanta. The slave cylinder was rebuild prior to me picking the car up and the mechanic commented that it was in rough shape. For my road trip I simply added some fluid every morning to ensure that cylinder did not run dry. Since being in Atlanta the rate of fluid loss continues to increase.

I stuck my head under the car last night and took this quick video.


From the looks of it I should not have that much play in the clutch fork assembly and it makes perfect sense why the slave cylinder is leaking profusely. The clutch engages and disengages correctly and the only thing that prompted inspection was the impressive loss of fluid over the last two weeks.

I typically do most all of my work in my backyard therefore I would love some experienced advice on what my next steps should be to resolve this issue.
 

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Mine was in similar shape, then just a few days ago the pushrod sheared right off. IPD has a new slave cylinder and pushrod in stock, so I ordered it - should be here today.
 

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The fork play is controlled within the bell housing, by the fit on the throwout bearing and the ball it pivots on. The rod is not attached to the slave, it has a spherical end and the piston has a dish shape. That slop is not causing the loss of fluid, most people who rebuild the cylinders don't re-machine the bore so the wear that caused the old seal to fail causes the new seal to fail very quickly. The best bet is to buy a new or professionally rebuilt master and slave. As for the fork play, you need to get in to the bell housing to fix that. Either things are severely worn or someone used the wrong parts to rebuild it.
 

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The up-and-down fork play is completely normal. The pushrod has a rounded end at the slave piston side, and the clutch fork rides on a ball joint internally. They're designed to move that way. The important play is toward the rear - which the little spring behind the cylinder opposes. There should be 1/8-1/4" of slack when the clutch is engaged, this allows the throwout bearing to fully release. Beyond that, there's no really critical adjustment.

A leaky slave is also completely normal. ;) It's an alloy housing, and with time moisture gets into the cylinder, both from the outside and from water absorbed by the fluid, and the cylinder gets pitted internally. There's usually no rebuilding them when that happens, although you can try to hone it you're generally best off just finding a replacement.
 

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I've had mixed results honing worn aluminum cylinders. Both clutch cylinders on my 122S were leaking. I honed them with fine emery cloth wrapped over a cylinder hone, in a bath of mineral spirits. The slave cylinder is no longer leaking, but the master still has a slight leak. And I wouldn't be surprised if, when I install a new master, the slave springs a leak again. But given the cost of new cylinders, honing is worth a try.
 

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I like honing, using a 3-arm spring-loaded abrasive-padded small cylinder hone, and NOS seals. And silicone DOT 5 fluid...
Unfortunately the aftermarket replacements I've seen recently--kits, complete masters and slaves, are junk...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all of the input!

The previous owner did a rebuild and noted the cylinder walls were in rough shape. I will track down a new slave cylinder and leave the play in the fork unaddressed. Then I will decide if its worth rebuilding the old slave with a slight hone and new rubber.

I will update as this project continues.

Does anyone have a review of the Wilwood Master Cylinder? http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx?group=Integral%20Reservoir%20Compact%20Master%20Cylinder
 

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A friend of mine installed a Wilwood master in place of the Girling and had no problems. I can't say first hand.

Mike
 
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