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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK lads, the question is: does an '89 240 manual have a return spring on the release fork? I have both a Bentley and a Haynes book, and one of 'em (I forget which one right now) says it does and the other doesn't mention one. I seem to remember the 140s having a return spring but there isn't one on my 240. The reason I ask is that the fork doesn't seem to return all the way (and yes I've checked the free play at the cable connection) and there seems to be some very slight clutch drag when changing gears (and yes again, I realize that it may be weak springs in the clutch pressure housing).
 

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Re: Clutch release fork/lever return spring (John2x240)

Yes, there is supposed to be a return spring and it will help to keep the throw-out bearing from being spun - if the free play is adjusted correctly and the pressure plate leaves are not all worn out.

The biggest clutch issue I've had (am still having) is with the poor-quality aftermarket clutch cables - I've suffered stiff, groaning and sticky clutch operation and serial broken cables. It was not so easy to figure out that the cables themselves were the root of these problems - I did a whole clutch job and new engine mounts to be absolutely sure that nothing else was wrong. Flooding the cable jacket with Teflon spray and lithium grease has relieved the stiffness but there is still a great deal of "stiction". I will be ordering an OEM-style cable which I hope will bring everything back to proper operation.

What does the cable have to do with your question? I've also noticed that with these recent bad cables, it's much harder to sense and adjust the free play, and the return spring isn't as effective. So you might think about that if you continue to have issues with the free play.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Clutch release fork/lever return spring (jhalbert)

Thanks for the info. My cable is free and the pedal always returns to the proper height without any problems, but I'll keep your comment in mind about aftermarket replacement cables if I need to get a new one.
 

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When I installed an M46 in my 89 245 last fall, I used a spring at the pedal and at the fork. I've since read (can't remember where, of course) that you really only need one or the other. I do know the pedal is VERY stiff, smooth, but stiff. My 144 has only the fork spring...much more pleasant!
 

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Re: (swiftjustice44)

Quote, originally posted by swiftjustice44 »
When I installed an M46 in my 89 245 last fall, I used a spring at the pedal and at the fork. I've since read (can't remember where, of course) that you really only need one or the other. I do know the pedal is VERY stiff, smooth, but stiff. My 144 has only the fork spring...much more pleasant!

The return spring on the fork is very important for clutch life and, as mentioned, bearing life.

Many clutch cable problems stem from the new cable's tendency to stretch early on. Depending on usage the new cable may need three or four adjustments before it will keep a set length.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (gdill2)

Yeah. It's been my experience over the decades that pretty well any new cable on any car needs snugging up a few times. As for a heavy pedal with two springs, I don't mind that as long as it's smooth and you get full travel.
 

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Re: (gdill2)

Quote, originally posted by gdill2 »

'''
Many clutch cable problems stem from the new cable's tendency to stretch early on. Depending on usage the new cable may need three or four adjustments before it will keep a set length.

George Dill

Agreed, but the problems I mentioned are not that the cable adjustment needs tweaking. I'm talking stiffness, stickiness, squeaking and groaning of the whole mechanism, followed by breakage. Thoroughly lubricating the cable has cured all but the stickiness issue. The batch of aftermarket cables I've recently tried are just junk. I was frankly surprised at how badly the cable can affect the whole linkage, and how hard it is to tell what's wrong until you swap cables. I even bought all new parts for the pedal-pivot assembly, but that had nothing to do with it.

I mentioned this one of the mechanic employees at the Revolvstore here, and he agreed - said that he's had to dispose of a new aftermarket cable and go get a good used cable from one of the cars in the salvage yard to complete a clutch job.

Hopefully this issue is limited to one bad mfg run - but how many of those are there every few years for 240 clutch cables? I'm going back to OEM style.
 
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