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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My clutch began slipping a touch while under a load in all gears. I was thinking it was probably a failed slave cylinder as I only have 31k on the clock, and I've never abused a clutch. I don't ride it, don't slip it, and rev match on downshifts, so I was suprised to hear from the dealer that he didn't see any hydraulic fluid leaking from the clutch. He also remarked that he'd only seen few clutches ever truly fail and that mine seemed extremely premature. Given that, he said it was still a wear item and isn't covered. It was as if he was admitting that this was above and beyond normal wear and tear, but he didn't really care because it's not his problem. <p>So the clutch isn't covered under warranty as it is a wear item, but he said it would be covered if they got in there and there was something actually broken, like the plate itself or the springs. The catch is that if they disassembled it and there was nothing broken that would be covered, then I'd be stuck paying for it all to the tune of $2800 pre-tax. <p>I can't afford that right now, so I'm wondering if I'll do damage to anything else in there if I keep driving it the way it is and just drive gingerly to keep it all from exploding? Second, this seems extremely premature for the clutch to have actually worn out and is there any recourse, or am I stuck? I did a search and it seems like every case of a failure at low mileage was actually due to the slave failing. <p>Maybe I'm just venting from frustration, but if anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them. <p>Lastly is a clutch swap something that I can do myself? I consider myself a decent shadetree mechanic, but all my work has been on Jeeps, Chevys, and Dodges, all of which had standard longitudinal engines with inline trannys. Those are no problem to drop and change a clutch, but I've never worked on the engine/tranny of a transverse mounted FWD car. I imagine it's not something I could tackle, but I thought I'd ask.
 

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its acutally easier to change the clutch but major issue is you have to have special volvo tools to correctly alighn the clutch <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (Chilled Man)

2800 is in the ballpark<p>my clutch + flywheel replacement was 2600 and some change.<p>find a decent volvo indy to save yourself on labor
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: (Chilled Man)

Of course I do, thanks Volvo!<p>Do any clutch kits, like the spec clutch come with an alignment tool? If I was going to replace it, it would proably be with an aftermarket clutch anyways.
 

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Re: (lan)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>lan</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>find a decent volvo indy to save yourself on labor</TD></TR></TABLE><p>And tell him that if he finds anything broken in there once he opens it up, stop all work and call you. Then, you call volvo and get someone to come down and look at it for a warranty claim. I don't know if this would work, but worth a try..?
 

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Re: (S60R1)

If it's in warranty you need to push them.<br>Even if they go 1/2 or give you some goodwill $$, you need to push this, do NOT let it just go
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (JRL)

His response was that the clutch is a wear and tear item and only has a 12 month/12k mile warranty, and that even though this was a very premature failure it still wouldn't be covered unless there was a part failure other than just wear. <p>I don't know how to phrase it to them to try to get them to cover it, so I'm open to any ideas. <p>Has anyone done a writeup on a clutch swap? How much is the alignment tool if I need to buy it? And, finally, anyone know of any good indy shops in the KC area?
 

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Re: (5sqrlfury)

<B>Phrase it this way;<p> "MANY clutches have been replaced under warranty<U> by goodwill</U> at these kind of miles."</B><p>If it's just worn out, you probably won't get anything but <B>you need to SEE all the </B><B>parts</B> and if you can't tell what's what, take the clutch parts to another mechanic (not them), who can tell if it's wear, abuse or broken!<p><B>If that slave cylinder <U>crapped out internally</U>, THEY have to replace the assembly</B><p>It should not be worn out unless you think you're a better clutch driver than you think you are.<p>I'm not picking on you or dissing you, that's just a statement of fact, so don't take it personally, it may not apply here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (JRL)

No offense taken. I may not be the perfect driver, but I know I'm good enough not to destroy a clutch that fast. <p>I got the car back on Friday and have been driving it gingerly, but I'll give the service manager a call back on Monday and see if they are willing to do it by goodwill under warranty. <p>Thanks again for all the help, I really appreciate it.
 

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Re: (5sqrlfury)

If you already paid, you're a bit late on that <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0"> but you can try...<br>GET THE PARTS BACK
 

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Even a faulty slave cylinder won't ruin the clutch. The clutch will still have full bite even with a dead cylinder. The only thing a failed slave cylinder is going to do is prevent you from disengaging the clutch, which will still ruin your day.<p>Your failure definitely sounds like a freak incident.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (phuz)

No, I didn't pay for anything. I didn't let them start disassembly on it. I didn't want them to get the parts out, come to the conclusion that it was just worn out and then I'd be on the hook for the whole bill (which I can't afford right now). <p>I figured if I was going to swap the clutch, then I'd either do it myself of find a local indy to do it. In the meantime I'll just drive it gently. Right now it's only a mild slip that occurs under load. The RPM will jump a few hundred and then it'll re-engage, the RPM come back down and allow acceleration. If that helps anyone tell me more about what's going on, in the words of Ross Perot, I'm all ears...
 
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