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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Swedespeed,<br>Is it possible to still get new clutches for 164's? I have a couple of old ones - is it possible to get these renovated or is it false economy?<br>Thanks, James.
 

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Re: Clutch for 164 (gdill2)

George,<p>Last I checked the clutch seemed to have bonded. I suspect I need to renovate the hydraulic system but I was wondering more about pressure plate and friction plate.<p>Similar to the gearbox, maybe I should get the hydraulics working and see if it will free up and is a goer or not?<p>James.<br>
 

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Re: Clutch for 164 (164 nut)

Bonded - common problem with long-sit cars.<p>With everything "OFF" and the car in "N" sit in the driver's seat while twelve buddies push the car forward. At about 10kph dump the trans into first gear (no clutch action) and the clutch disc will break loose.<p>George Dill
 

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Re: Clutch for 164 (164 nut)

All my 164 clutches have been cable-operated but I have had "bonding" problems with both a 164 and a couple 122s. I have successfully used the "lurch" method to free them and it is quick and easy, if a bit traumatic.<br>First you need to check to make sure the hydraulic system is indeed doing what it is supposed to do - moving the throwout arm or fork the right distance. If it is (or if not, WHEN it is) put the car on a road with slight or no traffic, start it in neutral and run it enough that the engine is warm and can be depended upon to start with good power. Shut the engine down,<br>put the tranny in second, and when there is no obstruction, start the engine with your foot on the clutch. Once it is rolling well, still with your foot on the clutch, alternately stomp the accelerator and the brake. Usually about 3 good hard lurches will break it loose and you'll roll to a stop. NOTE: level ground is strongly recommended for this. I have done it at midnight in a small fenced enclosure in reverse, when I had no other choice but you should make it as easy on yourself as possible. (I had just flown into the US from Panama and was retrieving the car from storage for a vacation.) You may notice a slight whisking sound from the clutch upon engagement but the roughness will soon polish away.<br>While slightly traumatic this is FAR quicker and easier than disassembly!
 

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Re: Clutch for 164 (164 nut)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>164 nut</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello Swedespeed,<br>Is it possible to still get new clutches for 164's? I have a couple of old ones - is it possible to get these renovated or is it false economy?<br>Thanks, James.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>If the clutch disc still has plenty of friction material, use it. You can get the pressure plate and flywheel re-surfaced at a machine shop, and then it'll be good as new (minus however much friction material has been used up). <p>That said, Skandix sells new kits <A HREF="https://ssl.kundenserver.de/www.skandix-usa.com/sess/utn154a6207bd1667d/shopdata/0020_VOLVO+Parts/0050_Drive+Train/product_details.shopscript?article=0120_clutch%2Bkit%2B=281002477=29" TARGET="_blank">here</A>.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: Clutch for 164 (Walrus3)

I think LHD are cable and RHD are hydraulic for 164's but not sure if that is a hard and fast rule. This one being an Aussie delivery it has the slave and master setup. Our 140's have the cable clutch so I am unsure as to the reasons why 164's may have been different. I recall the odd broken cable is fun to get home with the carefully matched clutchless changes. The long gear wand on the early 140's was a better feel for slotting in from memory.<p>Thanks everyone for the feedback - I will give that a try. Sounds like the traumatic method is the only way. Don't know how you'd go if you pulled it apart bonded anyway, short of tapping with a "pursuader" which seems even more traumatic. Will keep you posted on the outcome - kids permitting and new baby due in weeks... Could be challenging. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/frown.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>James.
 
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