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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The sway bar rods and joints are tight and clean. Yhe bushing are checking bad. They may be the culprit.
How easy to replace?
Looks like you need wrench on top.


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Not that easy. They are bonded to the bar. So, you need to remove the bar. Which requires dropping the rear of the subframe a bit. Then, you need to find aftermarket bushings that fit. You can't just buy the bushings from Volvo. Only the entire bar with bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ugh!
That stinks. Whole new sway bar that has the bushings on it?
Know wonder ever other link and ball joint looks new and the sway bar is the last to get done. If ever.
Sounds like massive hours of labor.
Thanks

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Try getting a pry bar under the sway bar. If you can't see any movement around the bushings, it's probably not that bad.

With proper supports, I don't think it's a difficult job. Easier with the car 6ft up. Maybe 2-3 hours. But, if you're doing that, might as well go with aftermarket sway bars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll do the pry bar check
If they are set is it dangerous to drive.
Probably the tie rods and other components will wear faster.


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I'll do the pry bar check
If they are set is it dangerous to drive.
Probably the tie rods and other components will wear faster.


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No safety issues driving if the bushings are a bit loose. Sadly, any rubber bushing on a Volvo is subject to having issues. My tie rods and sway bar endlinks were fine when I replaced them at 160k miles. LCAs were shot. I only wanted to rebuild the front end once!
 

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Not that easy. They are bonded to the bar. So, you need to remove the bar. Which requires dropping the rear of the subframe a bit. Then, you need to find aftermarket bushings that fit. You can't just buy the bushings from Volvo. Only the entire bar with bushings.

Even the polyurethane aftermarket ones are a big gamble. Perhaps the Polyflex brand will work, but it will take some washers welded to prevent the bar from sliding longitudinally - otherwise it will keep knocking into the control arms. Not to mention the poly ones need lubricated each year.

By the way, the bar doesn't knock on the subframe unless the bushing is really busted, it rather causes the end links to knock on the control arm. It doesn't look to be close enough, but that's what it was doing on my car. This is what I did - I'm not saying it's going to work on all cars - see at the end of this video - sorry it's a too long video, old one of mine when I wasn't good enough with editing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy08iEdvEwg

Speaking of the bushings, there are many bushings from other cars that fit in there, so if one finds the correct measurement, he can order from other car makers a genuine rubber bushing and glue it in there. Eventually use an aftermarket bracket as well because the existing bushing bracket will need to be cut. Still, as Exocet says, it's far from being an easy DIY
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Very informative video. I'll check my control arm. I wonder if you can put some rubber bumper on control arm.
Probably would get destroyed in a few city drives because of the stop and start.
Thanks for the video.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I lifted the car and used pry bar under the sway bar bushings and no movement.
The sway bar rods are tight also.
The control arms have no marks on them as if the sway bar is ramming them.
This is annoying.
There is no instability with quick movements in sreering.

Soft clunk when accelerating from stop. No noise over bumps.
Is it the transmission engaging? Or bevel gear or even rack and pinion?
Drive shaft is fine.

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I'm thinking maybe a CV joint at this point. Do you get the same noise accelerating from a stop in reverse?
 

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I lifted the car and used pry bar under the sway bar bushings and no movement.
The sway bar rods are tight also.
The control arms have no marks on them as if the sway bar is ramming them.
This is annoying.
There is no instability with quick movements in sreering.

Soft clunk when accelerating from stop. No noise over bumps.
Is it the transmission engaging? Or bevel gear or even rack and pinion?
Drive shaft is fine.

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Mine is also doing soft clunk when accelerating from stop. Thinking transmission torque mount, since everything besides swaybar and left CV have been replaced.

Left CV looks intact, but boots are starting to look old. Good thing I have a rebuilt one sitting in a box ready to use (but I really hate fighting with left CV axle extractions)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I agree it was tough job.
What's crazy is I looked at all things replaced last April after I bought the car and BOTH front cv joints were replaced with after market $150 axles. Could the driver cv joint gone bad in 3000 miles of easy driving. Since I put in a 80,000 mi one and drives better, it may have gone bad. The driving vibration is definitely gone.
I changed all engine mounts with ipd mounts when I got the car. I could look at the transmission mount though.
Wouldn't that be crazy if that's all it was ( I never have that good luck!). Could that go bad in 3,000 miles?
Thanks

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A less common clunk when accelerating/decelerating may come from the shock absorbers, in particular on cars that had the subframe lowered at some point without disconnecting the suspension (especially the end links). This could 'pull' on the shock absorber and can damage some internal component. At least this is what happened to me when I lowered the subframe to replace the transmission solenoids.
 
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