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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took delivery of my 2005 S40 four years ago today (4/13/05) and aside from a couple of minor issues over the first couple of months, the car has run like a champ.<p>Cut to Saturday, April 11 @ 3 pm - 33 hours before my 4/50 warranty expires - and on comes the Check Engine light. Realizing this was really good timing, I called the dealer and scheduled an appointment for 8 am this morning.<p>The warranty expired Monday at midnight but the service writer entered it into the computer on Saturday so it was handled under warranty. Turns out I needed a software upgrade (ECM Gasoline Up) and the PCV hose from the oil trap to the head failed.<p>One hour later on Saturday (service department closes at 4 pm) and I would have owed the $100 deductible on my VIP warranty. Again....I think that's pretty good timing! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Check Engine light - code ECM-250A (CINCYFAN)

Glad you had some luck <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Check Engine light - code ECM-250A (CINCYFAN)

Very nice, i would suggest everyone check there oil trap upper hose prior to their warranty being up as it may not set a CEL or drivability problem right away. They can be brittle and slightly cracked but not until the hose is seperated is it enough to cause the CEL.
 

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Re: Check Engine light - code ECM-250A (ForceFed Motorsports)

It's disappointing that the dealership charges so much. I was very happy with the service department and really wish their maintenance costs were more reasonable. If they were anywhere close to the indie shops, I'd stick with the dealer.<p>For example - indie shop charged $170 for the 37,500 mile service (they follow the Volvo recommended service schedule and use all OEM parts) and the dealer wanted $425. I simply can't justify the difference in cost. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Check Engine light - code ECM-250A (CINCYFAN)

OEM and factory volvo parts arent the same though. That just means they are OEM standard not necessarily from Volvo though. That adds to the cost some. Also gotta figure the price difference is a bit higher at the dealership however i can attest that the dealer often actually INSPECTS your car when you get a service rather than draining and filling the oil lol. Cars that we have never seen are what we call gravy trains because they will have everything wrong in the book on them because jiffy lube has never actually inspected the car <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Check Engine light - code ECM-250A (ForceFed Motorsports)

I certainly concede your point on Jiffy Lube! I would never take my car to one of those places. I also recognize there are higher costs associated at the dealership. <p>The indie shops I use is a great service shop that specialize in European cars and uses "OEM Volvo parts" (or whatever brand vehicle).<p>I don't have a problem paying for service but I am not willing to overpay for a very similar service.
 

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Re: Check Engine light - code ECM-250A (CINCYFAN)

I know where you come from, our biggest competition is a local Volvo specialty shop down the road. Reason being an independant shop can charge much lower rates than a dealership which has to pay the wages for much more employees to perform extra services for you such as the detail and customer service departments.
 

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Re: Check Engine light - code ECM-250A (CINCYFAN)

uh oh! My Check Engine Light just came on for the first time today. I'm pretty much in the boat as Cincy but my 4/50 warranty expired almost exactly one month ago. Also a 2.4i. <p>What should I do? Should I just have a local shop read the code for me or not waste my time and hit up the dealer. I am supposed to drive to Atlantic City this weekend so I need to figure this out!
 

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Re: Check Engine light - code ECM-250A (KDog)

KDog - Sorry to hear that but hopefully you've got the same problem I did. If so, I'm guessing that you are looking at one hour labor, the software download and the PCV hose. I can't imagine it would be more than $300-$400 depending on the labor rate ($102 in Cleveland). Don't get me wrong, that's not chump change but it's also not a major engine issue. Hopefully it's just the software update...<p>All that being said, I would suggest getting the code read, figure out what the issue is and as there is no warranty, get the work done at an indie shop. The one thing I don't know if is an indie shop has the ability to link up with Volvo and upgrade your software. I imagine that is something they can pay to do but I honestly don't know.<p>Good luck...
 

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Go to pretty much any auto parts store and ask whoever's working to read your CEL code. You'll probably get a short description with it, too. They do it for free because they're hoping you'll buy parts from them, or at least grab windshield washer fluid while you're there (I did). <p>For example, I had a mass airflow CEL a while ago, and I looked over my hoses and noticed one of the connections on my intake tube was loose. I tightened it up and the CEL went away. I hope yours is as simple (and cheap).
 

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Re: (mattdoc)

I have an extended warranty notice for the crankcase oil trap and ventilation hose. Now that I think about it I want this to be the problem. This way I can get it fixed no questions asked and not have to worry about it going on me randomly in the future. Because that's not a very comforting thought for anyone, it seems like Volvo should have done a recall if the issue is a ticking time bomb waiting to happen. This is still all speculation at this point and I should know tomorrow.<p>I also explored the loose gas cap option. If this were the cause, about how long would it take to for the CEL to go away? Is it based on driving time, on/off cycles, or what? I haven't been driving her so she's been collecting green pollen and looks like this<p><IMG SRC="http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr120/KDogS40/tennisballjpg.jpg" BORDER="0"><br>
 

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Re: (KDog)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>KDog</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also explored the loose gas cap option. If this were the cause, about how long would it take to for the CEL to go away? Is it based on driving time, on/off cycles, or what?</TD></TR></TABLE><br>It's based on number of "drive cycles", i.e. start, drive until engine temperature changes sufficiently, shut down. If a fault goes away and stays away, the lamp will go off, and the emissions-test-good status will be restored.<p>I don't know the exact number of drive cycles, but typically it will take a few days, assuming the loose cap was properly re-sealed.<p>Tom.
 

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Re: (tmtalpey)

UPDATE: Called dealer and indie shop in anticipation of having to take it in. <p>Dealer said not to worry if the car was running fine and the CEL was not accompanied by any other lights. They also suggested it was likely related to emissions. Dealer didn't have any openings for appointments before this weekend and was hoping to figure it out before then...<p>Indie shop said they could read the code for $30. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0"> In the meantime I scheduled the Indie shop to do a coolant flush (its looking brown and goopy) for tomorrow while I decided what to do. <p>Had to drive down to school to take care of some things. On my way back home I realized the CEL was gone. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> Sweet!<p>Must have been the loose gas cap (sounds dumb but I wasn't certain if it was loose or not when I checked it yesterday). <p>Anaysis: My guess is that it took about 4-5 drive cycles and/or about 20 miles of driving for it to clear. Of the 4-5 cycles, 2 were just starting her in my driveway trying to figure out what was up. I also noted that it took about a day and 3 drive cycles for the light to come on after filling with gas.<p>I also have some goodies on order as I plan on doing the next oil change and spark plugs myself. (Sana where's that 2.4i plug write-up? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> )<p>Thanks Cincy, Mattdoc, & Tom. Sorry if I wasted anyone's time. Live and learn right? That's why were here.<p>
 

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Re: (KDog)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>KDog</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the meantime I scheduled the Indie shop to do a coolant flush (its looking brown and goopy) for tomorrow while I decided what to do.</TD></TR></TABLE><br>BEEP ALERT BEEP ALERT<p>Don't flush the coolant. It's 99% likely you have a leak in the automatic transmission cooler, and not only is there transmission oil in the coolant, there also may be coolant in the transmission. If so, you need to fix the leak and especially <b>flush the transmission</b>.<p>This has happened to a few folks here before, and was fixed under warranty. I'd recommend getting it to a dealer in any case, because the test for transmission oil contamination is somewhat specialized. You really need to get on it immediately. Do a search here for background, also. <p>Here (one example):<br><A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=64085" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=64085</A><p>Also dealer can pull TNN43-48 (according to earlier thread) which describes known old issue.<p>Tom.
 

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Re: (tmtalpey)

...leak in the automatic transmission cooler? I drive a manual. Please tell me this nullifies this issue!?
 

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Re: (KDog)

Oh, oops I saw the OP had an auto, didn't notice it wasn't you.<p>Ok, no panic, but coffee milkshake in the radiator means oil leak somewhere, or totally cooked coolant. Check the thread I pointed at for a second possibility - the engine oil cooler.<p>If you pull the dipstick, does the oil look milky? If so, it could be the oil cooler. If not, is there a high pressure in the coolant reservoir when the engine is running? If so, could be a head gasket. If none of these, maybe just dead coolant (the best outcome).<p>You should still check before flushing! Don't lose the evidence before a conviction.<p>Tom.
 

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Re: (tmtalpey)

Just checked...the oil looks like typical older oil...a little on the black side b/c I am due for a change.<p>It definitely doesn't look like a coffee milkshake in the resevoir. I think I had the original red stuff that just looks old.<p>How do i know what is considered "high" pressure in the coolant reservoir when the engine is running?<p>Should I ask the indie shop to check for this beforehand?
 

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Re: (KDog)

Red stuff? Volvo OEM coolant is not red. Definitely flush it, someone messed with it. When you said "brown and goopy" that sounded a lot more extreme.<p>Any pressure in an open coolant reservoir when the engine is running would be high. If the engine is cold, you can simply put your hand over the opening and see if it burps. Or, look for steady bubbles coming up the overflow. From the sound of it though, the head gasket isn't likely.<p>Tom.
 
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