[Ramona Volvo]

Hello Volvo enthusiasts,

I am new to these forums and new to Volvos. I got myself a 2005 Volvo S60 R and I know it's pretty bad ass, I just need someone to explain it to me.

Around the same time I needed to replace my tires and get an oil change a light came on for a "Chassis Setting Service Required." I figured it had something to do with the tire/oil situation but I just got both those replaced and the light is still on.

I'm at about 89,000 miles and haven't seen/felt anything wrong since I bought the car (at about 80,000 miles). From the bit of Googling I've been doing it seems like a suspension issue usually. Is it just a complete crapshoot to guess?

What advice would you give someone heading into this situation?

MUCH APPRECIATED. Thanks all.

 

[BmCR]

Def to do with a strut rather than the tires/ engine oil. Check to see if any of your struts are leaking. Each strut also has a connector which allows you to adjust the stiffness via the buttons. Check to make sure they are all still plugged in and no damage to the wires. My guess is one of your struts are probably blown and if so expect to pay a pretty penny for new. It's also advisable to replace struts in pairs ie both fronts or both rears.

 

[Ramona Volvo]

Thanks!

 

[DevolvR]

This search might help:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=site...&sugexp=chrome,mod=3&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I would start at looking at the 4C Accelerometer connections and if there are any lose or broken wires. I would also check if the accelerometers are level, if they are off, they throw codes.

 

[LOGBOMB]

An accelerometer could be out of whack or a strut would be my guess if you drove an R. However since you drive a Camry your guess is as good as mine.

 

[LOGBOMB]

Damn you Alfred

 

[DevolvR]

Damn you Alfred

lol sorry!

 

[LOGBOMB]

lol sorry!

Nah me and my fat fingers were too slow and you did a much better job explaining anyway.

 

[H82LOSE]

Have same service needed issue. Took to dealer and told me sensor was bad but is embedded in the strut and would have to replace whole strut at a time of $1100. Is there such a sensor in the strut or should i be checking these accelemeter boxes?
Just wondering if dealer tryin to rip me off.
Thanks

 

[nedmonds]

See if you can find out exactly what code they pulled from the car - it tells alot about the nature of the problem. I had the same issue, but the shock was still fine (no leaks) and it turned out the wire to the strut solenoid was just getting brittle. After I sourced the area of the cable that was fatigued, I zip tied it in place and everything is perfect again. Eventually I am just going to splice a different wire in there. I'm at 70k miles so I should be able to eek out a couple more years on the struts.
$1100 sounds right if they are doing TWO struts but for one?!? You are getting mugged! They cost about $400 a pop plus installation. If you choose that route, I suggest an independent shop and buying the shocks on your own from RockAuto.

 

[H82LOSE]

Nemonds,
Thanks for quick response. Codes are all sum with these numbers
0112, 0113 and 0115 are what dealer said.
Thanks,
Randy

 

[Ocean Racer]

Nemonds,
Thanks for quick response. Codes are all sum with these numbers
0112, 0113 and 0115 are what dealer said.
Thanks,
Randy

SUM-0112 Solenoid, suspension left front. Signal too high
SUM-0113 Solenoid, suspension left front. Signal missing
SUM-0115 Solenoid, suspension left front. Current too low

So in other words, your front left strut / sensor is the problem.

 

[nedmonds]

Randy,
Ocean Racer beat me to my home PC to get the codes, but he is correct - all codes relate to the solenoid that is inside the shock itself. One of the first things to check is the connection at the end of the harness. If you pop the hood, there is a bank of three connectors in a column right up against the firewall. The shock solenoid one is the third one down. Unplug it and spray with contact cleaner to make sure the connection is good. Since you are getting all three errors, it is actually possible the wire itself got severed, but I would think (hope) the dealer would have noticed that.
Good luck! If you don't notice any oil or moisture around the drivers shock, it is likely just the wire and the shock still has life. It is wet, it is blown and needs replacing. Be sure to replace in pairs. I actually just saw those monroe shocks on Rock Auto are only $270 compared to the $400+ the dealer charges.

 

[surfsd]

Randy,
The shock solenoid one is the third one down. Unplug it and spray with contact cleaner to make sure the connection is good.

Silly question, but I am having the same issue and could not unplug it. What am I not doing correctly?
I am about ready to just order 1 new strut, as I am positive the solenoid is bad in it after 15k miles, but I would like to try your suggestion first.
Thanks

 

[nedmonds]

There is a notch in the connector you have to push in while unplugging. I personally find these really hard to push in with my fingers so I usually get a stubby flat head screwdriver and push it against the tab on the front of the connector. You should be able to then unplug. Might be really tight since it likely hasn't been unplugged since your car was assembled at the factory but it will come out with some pulling.
BTW is your CSSR error intermittent or is it on as soon as the car starts to roll forward?
Also with a high amount of miles, I strongly suggest doing both fronts together or you might wear the new shock more quickly and the car might not ride properly. Just my 2 cents since it will be in the shop already....

 

[surfsd]

Thanks Nedmonds, I suspected I was doing it wrong. New front shocks were installed 15k miles ago. A few weeks ago it threw the code 0113. Dealer said the front drivers side shock was not working correctly (thanks for the great diagnosis). I checked the wire coming out of the shock and see no damage to it. The warning light was intermittent, but now, pretty much comes on when I start the car, leading me to believe the solenoid crapped out and I will need to buy a new shock. I am hopeful I can then send the old shock back to Rock Auto and get credited for it, based on the warranty info I downloaded from the Monroe website, if unplugging, cleaning and replugging the line back in does not work.

 

[H82LOSE]

Mine comes on when i start to roll. But I see no signs of a blowout or oil on the strut.

 

[Ocean Racer]

Mine was doing the same until I removed plastic wire cover off the wires exposing the issue - cut wires from some muppet who crimped them under the strut bar.
Now I'm not saying you have the same problem but keep an open mind to find the issue.
Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[SteveP]

Randy,
Ocean Racer beat me to my home PC to get the codes, but he is correct - all codes relate to the solenoid that is inside the shock itself. One of the first things to check is the connection at the end of the harness. If you pop the hood, there is a bank of three connectors in a column right up against the firewall. The shock solenoid one is the third one down. Unplug it and spray with contact cleaner to make sure the connection is good. Since you are getting all three errors, it is actually possible the wire itself got severed, but I would think (hope) the dealer would have noticed that.
Good luck! If you don't notice any oil or moisture around the drivers shock, it is likely just the wire and the shock still has life. It is wet, it is blown and needs replacing. Be sure to replace in pairs. I actually just saw those monroe shocks on Rock Auto are only $270 compared to the $400+ the dealer charges.

Allow me to jump in please. I'm getting the SUM-0115 code - dealer says it's a dead solenoid and about $950 to replace. Ned - which side of the firewall is the plug column located? I'm going to take a look to see if that's the problem. Could it be a brittle wire somewhere along the way? Do I have to remove the wheel to check the wiring from the strut?

Geez I'm sounding like a noob! :facepalm:

 

[nedmonds]

Steve,
The 4C wiring harnesses are all plugged in a vertical row against the firewall. There is a set of three on each side of the car. You don't need to remove the wheel, but turning it full left will help get you access to the wire harness. Unplug the third plug down in the column of three - that's the shock solenoid wire. Clean it with contact cleaner to see if that helps. If not, try hooking up a voltmeter to each of the contacts in the plug. If you have current, there is an intermittent break in the wire somewhere. I had a friend help me watch the meter while I started moving the wire in various spots. Turns out my wire was fatigued about 3 inches out of the bottom of the shock.
Good luck!
Neil