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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my car has a CEL on as well as the "Chassis Setting Service" and "Alarm Service" message on the dash. The alarm horn is going off constantly (fuse pulled).

So I ran a check of all the codes I could pull and here is what I found, What needs to be fixed?

Here is the scan from the "Central Electric Module" before clearing anything:



Then here is after clearing everything and driving for 15+ mins:





Anit-Lock before clearing/driving:



After clearing/driving:





What was causing the CEL to be on:




Climate Control:








Anything there that would indicate the Chassis Service or Alarm message and what needs to be fixed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also why we are at it I ran some diagnostic while I was driving a week ago and showed this for boost (I believe my boost is low):



This time the OBD reader/Computer we were using showed the boost at 990 and never changed. Interior boost gauge was working, but the ECM did not seem to have the right boost... thoughts?

Also odd that there does not seem to be negative pressure on this graph (vacuum), which there should be...
 

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Then the BPS is correct, that is about right for 10 psi. That could be the default cracking pressure for the wastegate, so check your boost control solenoid since its the likely culprit.

Assuming you are not in an auto in a low gear doing that, they are torque limited which could result in it pulling back the boost for WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Then the BPS is correct, that is about right for 10 psi. That could be the default cracking pressure for the wastegate, so check your boost control solenoid since its the likely culprit.

Assuming you are not in an auto in a low gear doing that, they are torque limited which could result in it pulling back the boost for WOT.
So 10psi is low, but the gauge is correct? It is an auto, but its not in the low gear. Would the torque limiter kick in under WOT driving on an auto?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I honestly was going to do some test/repairs first (vacuum leaks, plugs, clean injectors, fuel filter, etc...) before I tried to diagnose the boost issue. Was more concerned with the alarm and chassis code on here.
 

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Chassis codes seem to be related to SUM communication. Alarm codes appear to be from some signal issue in the rear door. If you have access to VIDA it will tell you DTC frequency.
 

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Ask VIDA... Sorry there's not a much better answer (at least in my opinion)... The SUM is the suspension module and it controls the shocks and takes input from the yaw sensor, BCM, ECM, and accelerometers to determine how to change the stiffness of the shocks on they fly. If there's a SUM communication issue that could be a lot of things. CEM or SUM failure or simply a random hiccup. VIDA is much better for electrical troubleshooting than anything else because it gives sensor readouts, and when a DTC was triggered/if it has come back in any subsequent drives.
 

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You'd have to purchase VIDA and install it on a laptop and also pick up a DICE unit (interface between USB and OBDII port). You can get knock offs from sellers on eBay and other sites.

I went through something similar recently. My alarm started going off constantly, I had to pull the fuse. I got the Alarm System Service Required message on my dashboard. It turned out that the battery in the alarm siren module had died, probably leaking corrosive acid all over the internals and causing a short. I replaced it, but it will drain the main battery to try to recharge the siren module batteries, so it also killed my main battery. Replaced that and all seems fine now.

Your situation may be a bit different in that I definitely had an alarm siren module code in VIDA, and didn't have the same codes. I did have some CEM communication codes which I believe were just the alarm module messing the whole network up (or as a result of the weakened battery). Not sure if your code reader would pick up the alarm siren code as it is probably a unique Volvo code that only VIDA can find. Regardless, the alarm siren module can wreak havoc on the rest of the car.

It's located in the front passenger side fender and was about $250. Lots of threads and videos on replacing it. Seems they all die about this age.
 
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