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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a nice crack in my charge air pipe when I bought my car right along the manifold top mounting bracket fused to the pipe. Initially, I cleaned the area up with brake cleaner, scuffed it with 80 grit then packed a bunch of plumber's epoxy around it. Plumber's epoxy is basically white JB Weld. That sealed it up for a while but within maybe 3,000 miles I saw some oil seeping out between the epoxy and the pipe. It didn't help that I had attached the bracket to the manifold. I didn't want to pay for an aftermarket pipe or go hunting for a decent used one so I fixed it again only this time it seems to be permanent.

To fix it, I pulled the pipe off, popped off the plumber's epoxy, cut the little L-bracket off and took an air grinder to it. I smoothed off the area as best as I could and scuffed it up really well with 80 grit again. I then mixed up some Loctite plastic bonder epoxy I had and covered the prepped area with it. Next, I placed a section of light fiberglass cloth over the area, and squeegeed more epoxy over it. I had some cloth left over from some other project that I used. The cloth fit over it pretty well, but the area where the bracket is attached is concave so it formed some air bubbles while it cured. I ground it down a little once it set up and then ripped up some pieces of scotch-brite pad, saturated them with epoxy and built up the hollow areas. I then covered the entire area with another layer of glass and epoxy.

The finished product is not the prettiest, but it is holding solid. No sign of leakage or cracks anywhere despite seeing an occasional 15 psi spike. The total time I spent on the fix was maybe 45 minutes with time to cure in between which is quicker than me hunting around a junkyard. If you have a cracked pipe, it might be worth patching it this way.
 

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If you have a cracked pipe.
Well I am from Toronto :D

DIY to the rescue, although It may not hold up forever. Quite sure the hard OTE pipe is ABS, I'd use something that will bond properly to ABS through chemical welding (or what ever it's made from. Volvo usually has labels on part showing what it's made from) rather than surface bonds. With your now fixed pipe it may be smart to scour the local classified for part outs in your spare time for a decent replacement.
 

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You could cut the pipe cleanly in half, insert an aluminum section that matches the inside diameter of the pipe, and place a silicone hose coupler over then clamp it down. Or place a hump hose between the two sections and make sure you don't tighten it so much that you crack the plastic further.

That is how i have my intercooler outlet adapted to the etm pipe and it holds 18-20psi without blowing out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The pipe is made of nylon. It's marked with PA. The correct way to fix nylon is to weld it, but for a patch this works fine. The area where it cracked is adjacent to a bend in the pipe so cutting and sleeving wouldn't work. Regarding heat stress, the epoxy can handle anything the nylon can so it should hold up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good price but I was back in business on the same Sunday afternoon that I found that it was cracked.
 
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