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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I did a quick search and can't seem to find the answer, so here goes.

I've got a 2010 XC60 T6 AWD. Not too long ago the dealer said it needed new front pads and rotors...then proceeded to quote me a princely sum to do that. I've always been one to wrench on my own vehicles (my other vehicle is a Ford F-150, so...yeah...), so I don't see the need to pay for someone else to do what I've normally been able to do myself. I did have them change the rear pads because of the electronic parking brake. But I'm a little nervous, are the front pads the same way? Or can I change the front brake components without having to disarm the electronic parking brake? Want to be sure before I tear into this thing after I change the oil here in a few hours...
 

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There is nothing special to worry about replacing your front brake pads. Have fun!
+1. For future reference the rear pads include instructions on how to manually release the rear parking brake.
 

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+2. About all that you'll need are water pump pliers or a large C-clamp. And I'd be surprised if you need new rotors. Unless they're heavily grooved or warped I'd just replace the pads.
 

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And I'd be surprised if you need new rotors. Unless they're heavily grooved or warped I'd just replace the pads.
Sometimes in high salt/snow environments (OP is in PA after all), the rotors can be corroded beyond salvation when the pads are finally done, and the whole set needs replacement at the same time. That's how it typically is here in Upstate NY at least. Fortunately, I've found that the Volvo OEM pads that generate a ton of dust are removing enough rotor material to keep the rotors in good shape. The low-dust pads, like Akebonos, will typically see the rotors go bad before the pads wear out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
+1. For future reference the rear pads include instructions on how to manually release the rear parking brake.
Wow, didn't know that. I'll have to keep that in mind when the next change rolls around.

I haven't actually done this yet, mainly because time/weather. However, I will in the next week or so. Thanks everyone for the replies and information, much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I apologize for the ridiculous bump, but I figured this was as good a place as any.

So the pads & rotor that I put on 12/15 are doing great. However, the rear pads that the dealership put on about 3 months earlier are already shot. I suspect that the rotors were more grooved than should have been allowed, which chewed up the pads pretty quickly.

The Wagner Thermoquiets on the front have worked well, but the dealership won't put them on for me. So how does one disarm the electronic parking brake without a computer? Or is there a cheap computer that I can get?


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
take off the EPB module, take off the rear cap on the EPB module, and there's an insert that you can turn with an allen key or torx key (can't remember which one it was). Turn it to retract the piston.
So I need to remove the motor? Do I do this before or after removing the caliper? Battery plugged in?

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well...****

Having changed the breaks, everything going back together nicely, I now have an alert telling me that parking brake service is required. It's saying that the parking brake isn't fully released. Dings are going off when I get up above about 10 mph or so. I re-jacked the tires up and in park with no parking brake you can spin the wheels by hand.

No idea what to do. Help?


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Figured it out. Apparently sometimes you have to turn the caliper drive screw counterclockwise a little bit so that the motor has somewhere to go during calibration.

Everything works now. Whew.


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