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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Did a monster amount of work on my 04 S60R this past weekend. I swapped out my heater core hoses and found my indy's tech didn't put a clamp on the PTC nipple, or on the upper PCV crankcase hose. He also didn't plug the PTC back in... Looking like lack of vacuum in the system and a missing clamp allowed a lot of oil to build up under the valve cover plastics, allowing oil to pool around the ignition coils. Tidied that up, put clamps on hoses that were missing them, successfully swapped both heater core hoses for brand new ones. I also swapped upper engine mount as mine was shot, changed out my front passenger axle as that was shot as well. And then the fun one I was nervous to attempt: swapping the water pump.

I followed all write ups on it, even using the VIDA step by step. I lined up my marks using the the marks that were on the cam shaft gears from when my indy did my t belt job 2 years ago. I lined them up with the timing cover, checked all was good and before slacking the tensioner and was even sure to make sure I cranked the crankshaft past and then back, per the VIDA writeup. I even wrapped some thing gauge wire through the cam gears to tie the belt in place (I didn't need to remove the belt, just get it off the water pump.) All went well, swapped out the water pump that had given out at the freeze plug (just my luck), RTV'd the new gasket, put thread seal on the bolts and it was all good. I put everything back together and made sure to put the tensioner arm in the just past warm mark (garage was around 75-80, so it's just a hair past dead center to the right). The eccentric is at about 7 o clock and the center bolt is tightened at 20nm per the VIDA writeup. Slack looks as good as it was before I did the job, it has just enough give to move the tensioner arm but is still plenty taught. All my marks still lined up and the belt never moved on the cam gears. Now, it is possible the belt was off a tooth on the crank... but I rotated it 4 whole turns to check for valve interference and to make sure my marks still aligned... They did, or at leas they appeared to.

At that point, every thing was buttoned back up and it was time for the shake down. I fired it up in the garage, let it idle for half an hour and checked everything for leaks/loose bolts or anything out of the ordinary. Burped the coolant system, topped it off and took it for a spin around the block. Ran/drove and sounded great, idled great as well. I had to stop once to top the coolant off again and when I started it back up, the ol CEL came on. I scanned the code with my little BT obd and got a P0016... Uh oh. Cleared it, got it home, started it back up and it came back. So I let it cool down a bit and then plugged it into VIDA/DICE. Via fault tracing I got what I expected, but something I wasn't expecting.... here are the two codes that came up active:

- ECM-2120 Fuel pump control module - Signal missing
- ECM-643A Camshaft position, inlet - Signal too low

Again, the thing runs and sounds fine, even at idle. Obvious reaction is that I messed up the timing, but I never actually took the belt completely off, at least not on the cam gears. The belt did come loose on the crank gear but if it was off a tooth there, then wouldn't things be thrown off a bit more?

Either way, I pulled some data. Apparently there's a CVVT test you can do but I didn't get to that. Here's the ECM info I pulled (I'll give the rough measurements, as they were actively jumping within 1 degree:

- Chamshaft shifting angle, inlet: -15 degrees
- Camshaft shifting angle, exhaust: 0 degrees
- Camshaft shifting angle deviation, inlet: -14 degrees
- Camshaft shifting angle deviation, exhaust: 0 degrees
- Inlet camshaft adaption: 0 degrees
- Exhaust camshaft adaption: -8 degrees

Now I'm a rookie when it comes to timing, especially with VVT. Is this telling me that my inlet (right cam) is behind 1-2 teeth and the exhaust is adapting to make up for it? Surely it can't be as simple as slacking off the tensioner and moving the inlet cam gear clockwise 1 tooth at a time until timing is correct? Since I don't really know what I'm doing, should I just bring this in to my shop and see if they'll work with me on getting the timing down?

Maybe it's just coincidence, but I do find it a bit bizarre that I've got a missing signal from the fuel pump control module... it's getting fuel. I didn't touch any of the connections at all. Kind of weird that all of a sudden there's a missing fuel pump module signal and the inlet camshaft is off. Any chance they're related? Could messing with the maf/ptc have triggered anything?

Anyways, I cleared the codes and called it a night. I'll see if the codes come back again. Any thoughts? Thanks for reading!

edit: research for the fuel pump control module code traces to a front o2 sensor. That was replaced about 3 years ago, I'll check to make sure I didn't accidentally unplug it. Would that have any relation to what's going on with the cams?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So last night I cleared both those codes with the engine running and I know it was in the same cycle, but they did not scan again. At that point, after I had pulled the data, I was beat and called it a night.

Later today I plan to reset the ecu and start with a blank slate. I'll also check all wiring to make sure there's no issues. The intake solenoid was replaced 2 years ago so that shouldn't be an issue, but it is entirely possible I pinched a wire or something. It's a bit strange that it seems my exhaust cam is spot on, but the inlet appears to be off a tooth or two? I know that the belt didn't didn't skip up top since it was tied to the gears and my marks lined up after everything was tightened down. It is possible the belt was off a tooth or two on the crank gear when I got it all back together, but wouldn't that cause both the inlet and exhaust to be off the same amount?

Called a volvo tech and it sounded strange to him. At this point he just suggests bringing it in to have the timing checked/adjusted for $400-$500, but that's the dealership. I'm sure I can get my indy to do it for $300 or so, might be worth it to have it done right.
 
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