SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks...

Bought a new (to me) certified Volvo S60 (second Volvo I've ever owned...had a V70R for a while). Deal seemed really good (under 20k for a a 2017 with around 31k miles on it and 2.5 years warranty) so I jumped on it (out of state).

Long story short, the local mechanic who did the inspection found that there was significant amounts of corrosion under the hood, around the engine, starter, etc. I figured since it was certified, this wouldn't be a concern. The mechanic recommended shorter intervals for oil changes, use of high octane fuel, and that he could try to treat some of the corrosion.

My question is whether it should have been certified given the corrosion (some of it looks significant...like it was parked next to the beach for a while).

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,824 Posts
Hi folks...

Bought a new (to me) certified Volvo S60 (second Volvo I've ever owned...had a V70R for a while). Deal seemed really good (under 20k for a a 2017 with around 31k miles on it and 2.5 years warranty) so I jumped on it (out of state).

Long story short, the local mechanic who did the inspection found that there was significant amounts of corrosion under the hood, around the engine, starter, etc. I figured since it was certified, this wouldn't be a concern. The mechanic recommended shorter intervals for oil changes, use of high octane fuel, and that he could try to treat some of the corrosion.

My question is whether it should have been certified given the corrosion (some of it looks significant...like it was parked next to the beach for a while).

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks.
When you say corrosion do you mean Surface Rust or actual corrosion that has eaten through panels? Pictures would really help here so we can offer proper guidance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,075 Posts
What state was the car purchased in? Under $20K for a 2017??? Seems too good a deal. Is it possible this could be a flood car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will take some pics for folks and post them.

If it is was a flood car, would they have certified it? The carfax was clean and there is no other indication (that I can see) that it is a flood car. Plus, my local mechanic would have caught it...he knows cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,824 Posts
I will take some pics for folks and post them.

If it is was a flood car, would they have certified it? The carfax was clean and there is no other indication (that I can see) that it is a flood car. Plus, my local mechanic would have caught it...he knows cars.
Cars can be "washed" as they move through auctions and various states. Where X damage falls off the title, ends up on a lot, and is sold as if the vehicle was meticulously cared for and never suffered X damage.

We really need pictures to make any determination about what may or may not be a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,274 Posts
Where is the car from? I live in the northeast and have noticed similar looking "corrosion" on parts like the oil pan. Mine wipes off...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,504 Posts
That's nothing to be concerned with. Aluminum or alloy parts under hood will get that type of corrosion especially if the car has lived in an area where salt is used on the roads. I would be more concerned with body panels and frame if there was extensive rust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's nothing to be concerned with. Aluminum or alloy parts under hood will get that type of corrosion especially if the car has lived in an area where salt is used on the roads. I would be more concerned with body panels and frame if there was extensive rust.
Thanks. The body (as far as I can tell) looks fine. Glad to hear you don't think this is a reason to be concerned.

My mechanic brought it up, suggesting it may have long term impact. As I mentioned above, he also recommended I do oil changes every 6k max, and that I should use premium gas (which I haven't tried yet...but after reading these boards, I will on my next fill up). I guess there was additional corrosion in or around the engine he was concerned about.

I'm not a true "car person", so I wasn't sure how concerned I should be (I'd like to keep this car a long time if possible).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hate to break it to you but your mechanic doesn't know cars as well as you think.
That's not the worst news ever, I suppose. Do you concur with the assessment about not worrying about this? Any other recommendations (other than finding a new mechanic)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
Hate to break it to you but your mechanic doesn't know cars as well as you think.
I think it's more likely that the mechanic knows cars reasonably well and also knew that the OP doesn't know cars. The recommendation to let the mechanic "treat" the corrosion makes me think the mechanic is seeing dollar signs.

I know most mechanics are as honest as you are, Tech, but one who recommends "treating" standard surface oxidation on aluminum parts sets my scammer alert on high so I'm inclined to think this is less ignorance and more scam based on those photos.

EDIT: OP, don't worry at all about that. Aluminum parts will develop surface corrosion like that, but the surface corrosion actually protects it from corroding further because it isolates the aluminum below it from oxidizing agents. Aluminum oxidation is not like iron/steel oxidation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,019 Posts
I absolutely concur. I work on these all day, there is nothing out of the ordinary in those pictures. I'm curious how he was going to "treat" the corrosion.

The oil change interval is 10k miles. Yeah, you could do 6k and that obviously wouldn't hurt. But it sounds like he makes it seem absolutely critical to never pass 6k.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok...thanks...there is always a chance he was referring to some corrosion on the engine itself (or...?) that I did not take a picture of, but I figured this must be some of what he referred to...

Also, the engine is a T5 (awd)...is that considered Drive-E?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,504 Posts
Ok...thanks...there is always a chance he was referring to some corrosion on the engine itself (or...?) that I did not take a picture of, but I figured this must be some of what he referred to...

Also, the engine is a T5 (awd)...is that considered Drive-E?
Yes, for 2017 the T5 is a Drive-E, ie 4 cylinder engine. Drive-E is Volvo's nomenclature for this engine platform when it was introduced 8 or 9 years ago. "T5" used to mean it was a turbocharged 5 cylinder motor but like many other manufacturers Volvo changed the motor but kept the T5 name.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
855 Posts
I do my oil changes every 5k Dont trust any oil that will last 10k . Not going to be one of those people that will get engine issues once warranty is over and i have to pay from my own packet . Drive E is anything from 2015.5 model and up.. and T5 saying it takes regular 85 fuel but T6 with supercharge and turbo saying needs 91
 
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Top